theres no health hazards doing is there?....other then from the actual cold blueing solution right?.. i ask this because i know the bleuing is done almost exclusivly on steel and wasnt sure if it might create some caustic fumes or somthing or if its even possible so i figured id check as i havent a damn clue what the denixs are made from.
cold blueing a denix
- Thread starter BigJoe88
- Start date
I have used Beechwoods cold blueing before on a rifle that I did some gunsmithng on. Stuff works great ... no caustic reactions that I remember.. Nothing out of the ordinary. I did it in my kitchen and it went VERY easy. You may have to re-apply it to get the depth you want if I remember correctly. What kind of metal are you doing it on? Steel right?
Tim
Tim
Pot metal is still metal... albiet not a very good metal (junk metal to be exact) but serves its purpose nicely for the application of your Denix. BUT... You will know if it will "take" to the metal if you try it.. It basically will ether blue the piece or it wont... It will wash off with water. Wild stuff... I dont belive that it will take to pot metal. I think the pot metal has a certian amount of tin in it and other stuff. Like I said it will work or it wont. If it dosnt it will wipe right of (after you rinse it thoroughly off to neutralize the blueing salts). Just remember to apply gun oil to any blued metal.
Again.. No caustic fumes will develope with this products use I believe.
BE SAFE ALWAYS AND ALSO BE PARANOID WHEN USING ANY CHEMICALS. Paranoia pays. What they say now usually changes 10 years down the road when they discover that what was considered safe today is poison tomarrow.
As far as any contact with resins... All bets are off. I never heard of Beechwoods being drizzled on resin by mistake.
One other pointer.. Pick a part of the weapon that isnt that noticable and do a test blueing on that. Also remember that you have to boil the metal to open the metals pores and to get it to release any oils that will cause the blueing to not perform well. This also opens the metals pores to let the cold blueing agent to seep into it.. penetrate it if you will.
Remember - Clean the area well and clean it like you are getting ready to spray on a primer coat on some bare steel.
Again.. No caustic fumes will develope with this products use I believe.
BE SAFE ALWAYS AND ALSO BE PARANOID WHEN USING ANY CHEMICALS. Paranoia pays. What they say now usually changes 10 years down the road when they discover that what was considered safe today is poison tomarrow.
As far as any contact with resins... All bets are off. I never heard of Beechwoods being drizzled on resin by mistake.
One other pointer.. Pick a part of the weapon that isnt that noticable and do a test blueing on that. Also remember that you have to boil the metal to open the metals pores and to get it to release any oils that will cause the blueing to not perform well. This also opens the metals pores to let the cold blueing agent to seep into it.. penetrate it if you will.
Remember - Clean the area well and clean it like you are getting ready to spray on a primer coat on some bare steel.
I posted on this recently in this thread. http://www.therpf.com/index.php?showtopic=123370&hl=
Treadwell-
The Beechwoods that I used didnt really say anything that I would remember that made me worry about chemicals.. Are you confusing it with Deep Salt Blueing? THATS a different animal that involves a couple of "baths" that you put the parts in.. THATS nasty stuff.. respirators needed and goggles also.
As far as discoloration, thats a common thing to happen and you are right. Thats usually a difference in the mixture of said steel specimen. I had a AK-74 built for me and when they blued the weapon it discolored a slight bit on the muzzle break.. I wiped it down with oil and it corrected it pretty good. It seems that blueing leaves salts behind that you have to keep a pretty good eye on for a few months with a application of oil to neutralize the salts. Kind of leaves a brownish patina sometimes. Sometimes you will actually see salt deposit crystals on the blued steel... actually looks like table salt granuals on the steel. Appears over night it seems sometimes
Evan - you nailed it in that thread... great mausers. Great technique and thats the exact way to go with pot metals
Tim
The Beechwoods that I used didnt really say anything that I would remember that made me worry about chemicals.. Are you confusing it with Deep Salt Blueing? THATS a different animal that involves a couple of "baths" that you put the parts in.. THATS nasty stuff.. respirators needed and goggles also.
As far as discoloration, thats a common thing to happen and you are right. Thats usually a difference in the mixture of said steel specimen. I had a AK-74 built for me and when they blued the weapon it discolored a slight bit on the muzzle break.. I wiped it down with oil and it corrected it pretty good. It seems that blueing leaves salts behind that you have to keep a pretty good eye on for a few months with a application of oil to neutralize the salts. Kind of leaves a brownish patina sometimes. Sometimes you will actually see salt deposit crystals on the blued steel... actually looks like table salt granuals on the steel. Appears over night it seems sometimes
Evan - you nailed it in that thread... great mausers. Great technique and thats the exact way to go with pot metals
Tim
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