Hello I am having trouble getting clear resin to come out... well, clear. It always comes out a deep gold/yellow - but the brand I'm using says it should come out clear and colorless. Anybody know what I'm doing wrong???
Clear resin?
- Thread starter Hecubus114
- Start date
John Smallberries
New Member
Most Clear ureathanes ,if that is what you are using need to use platinum Silicone.
exoray
Master Member
Yep, my experience is that clears will bleed color out of the silicone if it's tinted... Platinum cure is the best route, or even a clear silicone like blufive suggested...
Another option is to make several pulls from the mold or use a release, I find that on say the 5-19th pull or so, 99% of the discoloration is gone from my experience... Not cost effective to just trash pulls but if you don't want to build another mold it's an option...
And last but not least, all the "cheapy" clear resins I have ever used have a yellow cast to them...
Alumilite and Smooth On are the best, clear resins...
Another option is to make several pulls from the mold or use a release, I find that on say the 5-19th pull or so, 99% of the discoloration is gone from my experience... Not cost effective to just trash pulls but if you don't want to build another mold it's an option...
And last but not least, all the "cheapy" clear resins I have ever used have a yellow cast to them...
Alumilite and Smooth On are the best, clear resins...
Last edited:
Thanks guys - it sounds like the problem is the latex I'm using for the mold - I believe I was using clear cast - I didnt know the color from the mold could bleed in...
8 perf
Sr Member
Just throwin' in my .02 cents here.
Jedi Rick and i were recently involved in "Cabin Fever 2" where we had to make a clear casting of a swordfish. Theres a thread here on thge subject somewhere. Anyway, Aniother thing to watch out for is the thickness of the casting. Most clear resins from our experience will turn yellow if the pour is too thick, say over 1-2 inches or so.
We ended up using smooth-on for a lot of our tests and pretty much was the clearest of all we tried. We even used some high $$ stuff out of Michigan that swore up and down it would remain clear. Long story short, we ended up with a piss yellow fish and had to vac form the thing.
If you're going to go with a silicone mold, definitly use Platinum cured rubber. Its more expensive, but many clear resins will not set up properly in a Tin cured or latex mold.
Also, some clear resins have an additive available for them to inhibit the yellowing process. And if you're so inclined, you can always experiment with adding a very small amount of blue dye to the resin. This can help a little bit if the yellowing is not too severe.
Best of luck.
Jedi Rick and i were recently involved in "Cabin Fever 2" where we had to make a clear casting of a swordfish. Theres a thread here on thge subject somewhere. Anyway, Aniother thing to watch out for is the thickness of the casting. Most clear resins from our experience will turn yellow if the pour is too thick, say over 1-2 inches or so.
We ended up using smooth-on for a lot of our tests and pretty much was the clearest of all we tried. We even used some high $$ stuff out of Michigan that swore up and down it would remain clear. Long story short, we ended up with a piss yellow fish and had to vac form the thing.
If you're going to go with a silicone mold, definitly use Platinum cured rubber. Its more expensive, but many clear resins will not set up properly in a Tin cured or latex mold.
Also, some clear resins have an additive available for them to inhibit the yellowing process. And if you're so inclined, you can always experiment with adding a very small amount of blue dye to the resin. This can help a little bit if the yellowing is not too severe.
Best of luck.
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