Cin Drallig Stunt hilt

[guabe]

One of my current obsession's is the Cin Drallig stunt hilt. Ever since I've started the clan hilts project I've scoured the web for more and more references and while working on the Shaak ti hilt I was looking for more hilts that used the same construction (like Barriss offee) and one was the Cin Drallig hilt. However thar particular hilt does not really exist, its more of a post movies hilt that was detailed after the fact. In the prequels this hilt was often used by Nick Gillard (master stunt coordinator) which was then made the Character Cin Dralling.

This is the "canon" hilt


And this is the real one used


Trying to replicate this stunt saber it seems like a similar pommel and emitter to the fisto, with a polished tube in the middle. I have been trying to figure out how to tackle this one and I used references like the other stunt hilts to determine the diameter of the mid tube and the overall size of the hilt.

So here is my current model and as you can tell the construction shows rounded edge rings (brass colored) and this is where I have some doubts because I have no clear image of the emitter to determine if this is accurate. That last picture is the one that gives me the idea that those are like brass seating rings like this one:

Model

Comparison shots

Any thoughts on the seating rings construction?

Thanks.

 

[Anakin Starkiller]

Model looks great as always. But, on the original prop, I don't see brass. I see chrome plating

 

[teecrooz]

 

[guabe]

Model looks great as always. But, on the original prop, I don't see brass. I see chrome plating

could it be nickel plating? cause there is a little bit of a gold tint.

I agree that it doesnt look like brass at all. The only reason i went that rout was because of those setting rings i found, but those also can come plated as well.

 

[teecrooz]

Knew I had another one hiding in my files.

 

[guabe]

Thank you

 

[guabe]

Thanks to Teecrooz I updated the model. I believe the emitter and the pommel are nickel plated brass, cause you can see the brass being exposed in the edges due to the hits it received or normal wear and tear.

The renders show the nickel plating being more saturated than it should be. Here is an example of nickel vs chrome plating

 

[Anakin Starkiller]

Check out this original Dooku saber from ROTS Star Wars: Attack Of The Clones Count Dooku Hero Lightsaber original prop weapon
This is plated resin. But, the chrome plating has aged in such a way that the plating looks quite gold. I think this might be what is going on. I think the plated parts (top and bottom) were plated resin and the plating has worn in such a way too look like Nickle on brass, as you;re saying.
But all this is academic, in terms of how the original was constructed. I think your plan to plate brass Nickle and wear away the edges is right on and will achieve a really accurate appearance while using premium materials that won't creep or flake over time.

 

[guabe]

Check out this original Dooku saber from ROTS Star Wars: Attack Of The Clones Count Dooku Hero Lightsaber original prop weapon
This is plated resin. But, the chrome plating has aged in such a way that the plating looks quite gold. I think this might be what is going on. I think the plated parts (top and bottom) were plated resin and the plating has worn in such a way too look like Nickle on brass, as you;re saying.
But all this is academic, in terms of how the original was constructed. I think your plan to plate brass Nickle and wear away the edges is right on and will achieve a really accurate appearance while using premium materials that won't creep or flake over time.

I think you are correct, I've seen another Dooku hilt turn yellow like you suggest: https://propstoreauction.com/lot-details/index/catalog/318/lot/95212

However, I will be doing it full metal. Ill have to do nickel plated brass so that it looks like the prop, with some features for install. Will be both stunt and FX worthy. It will come with an extra emitter top piece and endcap.
For the stunt version, you can insert a 10mm carbon fiber rod all the way to the pommel. Inside the pommel it has an M10X1.5mm pitch thread to attach it.

The middle tube will not come perforated for switches, this will be up to the installer. The inner ID is 26mm so it can fit an LGT or TXQ core, so it should be pretty easy to mod.

The stunt and the FX endcaps are almost the same but the stunt covers the sound holes.

 

[guabe]

I think the model is done now. Size-wise, I believe its little over 10.5" long, using this picture I can tell it's close in size to the Obi Stunt.

And the Obi E3 Stunt is around 10.5", I know this is not the same model but should be very comparable in size

Using that length as a base, the middle pipe should be 1.25". Scaling everything from that pipe size my model ends up at roughly 10.6" or 269mm

Here are just a fee comparison shots with the model overlaid

 

[guabe]

This is much closer to how the hilt could look like brand new. Nickle plated bass emitter and pommel and an aluminum body

 

[Eruonen]

It would be super cool if these would be compatible with the Saberz stunt blades

 

[guabe]

It would be super cool if these would be compatible with the Saberz stunt blades

I actually looked at that, the only issue is that those are like 14 mm diameter rods, not exactly accurate to the Nick Gillard one. You can see it here:

But i can probably make a pommel for the saberz long push rod. If anyone knows the length of the female thread portion of the pommel of the EF ill add it

 

[Eruonen]

Saberz ?

 

[guabe]

I assume is close to like 80 mm?

it would be like this:

And for the FX pommel and emitter

 

[Eruonen]

I’m not home with my stuff unfortunately, or I’d check for you

 

[Saberz]

The length doesn't much matter. As long as ~15-20mm or more of the pushrod are being gripped, you should have a very strong connection, as long as the rest of the structure is sound. We used differing lengths on different hilts, I just tended to make it much longer than necessary.

 

[guabe]

The length doesn't much matter. As long as ~15-20mm or more of the pushrod are being gripped, you should have a very strong connection, as long as the rest of the structure is sound. We used differing lengths on different hilts, I just tended to make it much longer than necessary.

Thanks for sharing. Can get this length instead? I can size the pommel stem appropriately by knowing this.

 

[Anakin Starkiller]

I assume is close to like 80 mm?

it would be like this:
View attachment 1804460

And for the FX pommel and emitter
View attachment 1804461

This design makes it so, if you install the saber with electronics, you cant use a fiberglass blade. Am I correct?
But, if you thread the static emitter head, and forget trying get the push rod all the way to the pommel, you could just mount the carbon fiber blade on a 10mm threaded rod and secure it to emitter, right? Then you could swap emitter heads as you like, and swap blades fx/carbon fiber, and still keep the option to install fx.

Just a thought

 

[Eruonen]

At that point they might just need to be separated hilts