Captain America: The First Avenger Ladder Lock Buckles. How To Make?

[NewmanAssembles]

Hey community. I am looking to make a replica of the shield from Captain America: The First Avenger. There are a handful of differences between the shield in this movie versus the shield in all of the other movies. The biggest issue I am having is matching the ladder lock buckles that they use. I have done every search I can think of to find them with no luck (the list of search terms would be too extensive to put here). I have seen in this forum that a few makers successfully recreated these buckles. But I have not had any lucky getting responses from them. I have a strong feeling the Marvel Props department made them in house and I feel I am going to have to do likewise. Because the buckles have that zigzag design to them it won't be as easy as simply bending a 4 bar ladder lock buckle. Can someone please give me some guidance on how you would go about fabricating these? What tools do I need? Any tips would be much appreciated. A CNC machine would be the most likely option. But I do not have access to one of those machines.

Thanks!

PS. I am really hoping these buckles already exist somewhere and it's just a matter of knowing what to look for. It has happened at least 3 times that I am aware of with Cap's gear.

 

[smithjohnj]

I am sure others can give you better advice but my approach would be based on use of simple hand and inexpensive power tools.

I would start with a solid block of metal. I would mark out the zigzag side profile on both sides making sure they are in perfect alignment. Then extend the straight “cut line” on the top of the “bent” opening to the edges of the block. This will be the first cut. Then mark out what I will call the bottom square face on both the “front” and “back” surface, including four points to drill out the corners of the opening. My first cut with hacksaw or power tool would be the angled cut across the block to make the top outside surface. Make this cut along the extended line you marked on the flat edge of the block with your cutting blade perpendicular to the edge. It is almost always a mistake to try to make a cut with your blade at an angle to the surface unless you have a jig or “tooling” to help keep your cut true. This is a “through” cut from one edge of the block to the other. Smooth this surface with a file, sanding disk, or emery cloth. Just make it smooth, a “finished” surface is not necessary yet.

This new flat surface will provide a platform to make the next two cuts which are perpendicular to this surface – the front and back of the “bent” opening. You will again be able to keep your cutting blade perpendicular to this new surface to make these cuts. Note these are NOT though cuts. Follow the profile marking and end the cuts at, or even slightly short, of the “cutoff” location. The key here is to cut straight from edge profile to edge profile so you do not cut too deep on one edge or the other.

The four and fifth cuts are straight cuts made on the flat “front” and “back” faces. These cuts are not through cuts but instead will meet the angled cuts (cuts “two” and “three”) to cutoff the waste. If you ended cuts two and three “short” you may need to deepen these cuts to meet up with cuts four and five. This should provide your zigzag profile. I would now smooth the new cut surfaces. I would mark the four corner points to drill out the square opening of the “bent” leg. Marking these points on the “front” surface.

Now drill all eight corner points. Cut between each set of four points to produce the two openings. You can now finish the buckle. All edges which will come in contact with the leather belts should be given special attention to prevent cutting or abrading the belts when in use.

 

[NewmanAssembles]

SOLVED. I just designed them in a CAD program and had them aluminum 3D printed.

 

[ZeroSum]

Nice! Are aluminum 3D prints decently strong?

 

[NewmanAssembles]

Nice! Are aluminum 3D prints decently strong?

I haven’t strength tested them myself. They feel as strong as any other buckle. But I used this YouTube video where the host tested 3D printed metals vs CNC machined metals. Surprisingly the 3D printed aluminum was stronger than CNC aluminum.

Skip to minutes 4 and 7.

 

[ZeroSum]

Ok that is surprising. The CNC equivalent is what I'd take to be the benchmark.