Can I use silicone lubricant as a release agent for a 2-part mold?

[OlivierC]

Hello guys, my name is Olivier, I have been browsing this forum for a while as a spectator, I have seen amazing stuff, so inspiring. I have never posted because I don't have anything to show yet.

I live in belgium and I'm a 3d modeler, I work in the animation and video game industry. I have wanted to turn to real prop making for a long time. I have done a lot of research (including on this forum, it's a gold mine of info) and watched a bunch of tutorials about molding and casting and now I feel I'm ready to give it a shot. I'm going to start small, tiny objects, and slowly progress to a full scale helmet that I'm currently modeling (maybe I'll do a slush cast, but since it's in multiple parts I might just cast it normally, don't know yet).

last week I finally ordered everything I needed to make my first molds. Or so I thought. I forgot to get some mold release agent (like Ease Release, the brand most people recommend) to make two parts molds. I know 2-part molds is not the very first thing you want do, but I want to try before ordering more materials (want to make sure I can do it before ordering 2 gallons of resin).

Sure, I could just run another order just for mold release, but since I live in Belgium, this thing is not easy to come by, the closest dealer in Europe is in Netherlands (that's where I got my smooth-on silicone and resin from). Ordering just a can would not be worth it, shipping would cost as much as the can itself.
So until I run another big order, I'm looking for alternate solutions, like something I can find at an automotive or hardware store.

Since Ease Release is silicone based, I was wondering if I could just use some generic silicone lubricant, like this one : https://www.brico.be/fr/atelier-mat...-au-silicone-wd40-'specialist'-400-ml/5317901
Do you think this would be enough to prevent the two mold parts from bonding together?
Unless you guys have better solutions, I'll give it a shot, on a small scale test. If it does not work, then I'll just order the real thing.
It really sucks, because other that this, I really have everything I need to start!

Thank you in advance for your help,

Olivier

 

[DizzyStrmtroopr]

i wouldn't. if you have easy access to petroleum jelly (vicks vaporub) use that in a thin coat. i microwave it for a few until it is liquid form and brush it on with a fine bristle paintbrush, then smooth out any brush lines with my finger.

 

[Darth Lars]

What you use must also be possible to easily wash off afterwards. Many lubricants are not.

 

[OlivierC]

Thank you very much to both of you for your help, you probably saved me some time and silicone (and some trouble). We don't have the vicks brand in belgium as far as I'm aware, so I googled petroleum jelly and I got pictures of Vaseline. If that's the same thing, then yes, I can get some. I'll just have to grab a couple other items, I don't want to check out with just that

 

[HighlanderFX]

Yes petroleum jelly and Vaseline are one and the same.

 

[OlivierC]

Thank you! I will give it a shot, and if I see it works just fine, I will probably stick to it, it's much cheaper ans easier to find here

 

[robstyle]

petroleum jelly / Vaseline is commonly used as prior mentioned. Be cautious about getting any on the part to be moulded as it will show on the cast parts. I use a heat gun to melt it inside the container then use a ship brush to brush it on. You want a fine layer, nothing overkill, just a fine layer.

I also cheat with it to give cast parts a shiny surface. To do this simply coat the master part being moulded with it then use the heat gun to malt it down/off to a micro thin layer. As an example I had to do this on a set of gun grips where the ones being cast were worn wood yet the request was for the cast grips to be in white ivory. The petroleum jelly brushed on and melted down covered the wood grain just enough while giving the surface a sheen where once parts were cast, BAM, ivory.

 

[cavx]

I have a proper release agent ($30+ per can) and I found that unless it is decent coat, parts can still stick.

Just clicked on the link in post #1 and noticed the product is a WH-40 product. So what about straight WD-40 as in the all purpose lubrication? It is basically fish oil and is can be cleaned up with warm soapy water. It is also very cost effective. So, is there documented reasons as to why not to use it?

EDIT: Just found this Breaks down silicone

The problem I have with Vaseline (even when heated and brushed) is that you can still get lines on you part if your brush touches the part. For this reason, I prefer a spray.

 

[robstyle]

The problem I have with Vaseline (even when heated and brushed) is that you can still get lines on you part if your brush touches the part. For this reason, I prefer a spray.

The spray will still get on the part in question if the part needs to have a release agent applied to it or not. In that instance I use Epoxy Parfilm in a rattle can.

 

[OlivierC]

I bought some vaseline like you guys suggested. I will try that on a test mold, I'll be careful to not apply any on the master, or wipe it off if I do. For the bigger scale stuff, I will have to order more resin anyway, so I'll make sure I get some release agent this time, so I can compare results