BTTF: From Krups Coffina to Mr. Fusion - Discussion, Questions, Tips and Tricks

That's a good question. Do you remove the circular window for paining or just mask it?

Also, I presume the proper steps for painting one once disassembled would be to sand it down with a fine grit sandpaper, primer it, and hit it with white paint? How glossy is the white paint? Gloss? Semi-gloss?
 
Exactly , I want it apart completely , sand it , paint it bright white.
because after the paint has the inside , it will remain an orange band
I would avoid this with masking

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The side windows are solvent welded in place. They ARE NOT coming out in one piece unless you are really lucky. Best thing to do is mask the inside window with a circle mask just around the same size as the outside.

That should minimized any chance of the ring showing up.

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I go with Gloss paint because it helps with the application of the waterslide logo if you are going that route. I will them coat with a clear gloss or semi-gloss depending on what look I want.
 
problem solved , I have been very lucky , I have managed to separate by taking the time and heating slightly

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i remember james from xrobots wanted to gut his so it was lighter. i forgot what reason he didnt, but is it possible to remove the motor to make it lighter?
 
i remember james from xrobots wanted to gut his so it was lighter. i forgot what reason he didnt, but is it possible to remove the motor to make it lighter?

The mechanism contains the latch that holds the gray plastic cup in place. That's why he left it in.
 
You CAN remove the motor, but only the central wound motor core. I wish I had pictures of the process, but it's not too terribly hard. There are some metal clips you have to undo and I think some screws holding in the grinder on one end. You need to keep the Die Cast motor frame in the unit to support the lower cup and the lower rear knob.

If someone can shoot me some pics of the motor assembly I could photoshop some notes on it to tell you what needs to go and how.

-Gary
 
You CAN remove the motor, but only the central wound motor core. I wish I had pictures of the process, but it's not too terribly hard. There are some metal clips you have to undo and I think some screws holding in the grinder on one end. You need to keep the Die Cast motor frame in the unit to support the lower cup and the lower rear knob.

If someone can shoot me some pics of the motor assembly I could photoshop some notes on it to tell you what needs to go and how.

-Gary

your amazing! thank you
 
Has anyone bought and used the decals that are available on eBay?

this thread has given me the bug, i found those same decals you were talking about. earlier in this thread they discussed that if your going for a mr fusion in bttf1 then the bay decals won't work. to be honest i dont think they work at all because I'm under the impression the decals for 2 and 3 are black
 
So it looks like the steps so far are...

1. Disassemble the grinder. Remove the motor core to reduce excess weight, but keep the remaining components to hold the cup in place (instructions to come from Gary Weaver).
2. If you choose not to re-paint your grinder, use a rubbing compound to remove the Krups logo and black line from the plastic.
3..If re-paining the grinder, either mask off the round windows on either side or carefully remove them using a hair dryer. Sand down the outside of the grinder with a fine grit sandpaper, then prime and paint with a fresh white coat (paint suggestions to come, hopefully).
4. Re-attach the round windows (if removed), then re-assemble the grinder.
5. Apply the decal set of your choice, based on your preference of which film's version you're attempting to match.

No details yet about the white lid, red latch or black base yet. Anybody want to take a crack at synthesizing these?
 
I wonder if anyone ever did end up trying to remove the Mr Fusion from the DST version and replacing it with a real Krups.
 
I wonder if anyone ever did end up trying to remove the Mr Fusion from the DST version and replacing it with a real Krups.

It was considered in a different thread on here, but there was never a definitive answer. Seems a bit price prohibitive to spend $300 on one just for the base though.
 
this thread has given me the bug, i found those same decals you were talking about. earlier in this thread they discussed that if your going for a mr fusion in bttf1 then the bay decals won't work. to be honest i dont think they work at all because I'm under the impression the decals for 2 and 3 are black

You can leave the window empty ...

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... or even leave the grinder completely without logo ...

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... and your Mr. Fusion is still screen accurate! :lol:D
 

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