Goodie2325
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Thank you for making this!
BRRogers / Verity Cosplay / 7 Chambers - "MoM of All Heroes"
- Thread starter Verity Cosplay
- Start date
As an installer myself and particularly one who's been agonizing over my Lukyanov Creepy Uncle install and Roman Balance v4, I particularly appreciate the challenge in hero installs. They SEEM deceptively easy until you go for that control box... and then it gets ugly real fast.
I REALLY wanted something that was EASY for folks to install for like.. the first time ever in the history of Hero installs
I felt it was important to be commensurate with the detail and attention we've put into the rest of this hilt.
I must say that you are doing an amazing job on everything so far, looks great!
One thing I am a bit worried about though are the trace widths for the power lines on the helper PCB. While I'm sure the MOSFET can handle plenty of current, your traces look very thin if they are potentially going to have several amps going through them. Have you done a calculation on the traces to check how much current they can handle?
One thing I am a bit worried about though are the trace widths for the power lines on the helper PCB. While I'm sure the MOSFET can handle plenty of current, your traces look very thin if they are potentially going to have several amps going through them. Have you done a calculation on the traces to check how much current they can handle?
I have not yet no. But it is a fair point. However the pinouts are set up to put the drain and source lines as close to the FET as possible. I do plan to double check those traces as those are the only ones that will carry any notable amperage (2-3A), while everything else is at most 60mA so those should be ok.
I do plan to double check the calculations however. I am actually more concerned with line noise due to how jammed everything is. I tried to keep respective poles separate and also away from data lines but can only do so much.
EDIT: thanks Seckro, yes. I will need to add a bit of beef to the source and drain lines to the FET as you are correct they are too small right now. However the other lines should be just fine given they are predominantly signal lines vs supply. The few supply lines besides the source and drain for the FET are going to be carrying 60mA or so and as such they should be ok as are. The source and drains for the FET do need to get bigger though. Thanks!
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Thanks to Seckro's nudging I have gone through and done the various trace calculations.
The main FET lines are now fully beefed up to to handle 4A with a 10 degree temp tolerance and a full 5A with a 20 degree tolerance. These traces also are super direct and short so this should MORE than handle any load from the kill switch function.
The LED lines have a TON of headroom being able to handle 1.5A but really will only see 60mA so... I think we're good.
New round of prototype PCBs ordered!
The main FET lines are now fully beefed up to to handle 4A with a 10 degree temp tolerance and a full 5A with a 20 degree tolerance. These traces also are super direct and short so this should MORE than handle any load from the kill switch function.
The LED lines have a TON of headroom being able to handle 1.5A but really will only see 60mA so... I think we're good.
New round of prototype PCBs ordered!
the kit will have a neopixel emitter cup, but it is not recessed. It will require a recessed pcb in the blade.
Any possibility of not having a cup or having an option to make it flat? For pixel sabers this is just a hassle tbh.
I dont know how far in the process we are. But I really 2nd a more pixelfriendly option.
It's perhaps not the standard yet but Neopixel is by far the best for FX and the only thing I install.
A recess and the option to mount the vindvane to the emitter without the cup would be a great future.
Haha, well pretty far along at this point.
Word is the prototypes are shipping along with a batch of other hilts for 7Chambers online store... should only be a matter of time before we see it, though that’s relative to how long it takes to get there/here due to the virus.
The problem, is that there is literally not room.
The lower emitter bell does not have enough meat.
If other manufacturers have done a recessed hilt side neopixel pcb there, they have surely modified the model geometry to do so... or chosen compromisingly thin machining there.
As it stands, ‘thin neck’ sabers do have plenty of support for neopixel with great results. If you have any previous neopixel thin necks, like romans thin necks or V2s (AS/ solos hold).
For these makers to maintain model accuracy they use cups which recess into the blade side but still look great.
So: there would be no guarantee that it is both completely accurate AND as SOLIDLY constructed as we have engineered this by making it with a recessed hilt side.
Instead of requiring people modify the LED heat sink We are also including both a LED heat sink AND a pre-machined pixel adapter for recessed thin-neck blades...
again recessing a pixel pcb into the emitter will compromise either the accuracy, or the durability... which we really aren’t comfortable with here on this project
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To add to BRRogers, you ALSO can just use NO cup. this would make the blade socket relatively shallow but we have made this method possible since the emitter assembly is held together by the neck sleeve not the cup. The cup can be omitted.
I do almost nothing but pixel sabers these days. I focused the design VERY heavily towards FX install ease and particularly pixel. But as Bryan said, without compromising structural integrity, there just is not enough material to the emitter bell to do a recessed hilt PCB without compromising geometry. So instead I focused on a variety of possible methods each with trade-offs for a pixel install:
1.) "standard" method using the included pixel cup. This fundamentally is a trimmed down led heat sink cup designed to handle a pogo pin connector from the various vendors. The trade off here is the blade needs to be a recessed pcb blade. To use this method you will want something like this from shapeways: MK1 (TCSS Blade) Neopixel Adapter by wolf69 on Shapeways
2.) "no cup" method which just would involve leaving the cup out of the install and using a shallow pogo pin holder at the floor of the blade socket. (This also is the only way a 7/8" pixel blade can be installed on this kit using the included 7/8" socket adapter). The trade off here is a shallower socket for the blade. To use this method you'd want likely something like this from Shapeways: Korbanth K4 1" Neopixel Adapter by wolf69 on Shapeways
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yep. That will totally work, just a relatively shallow socket all said and done doing that.
watching patiently
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