Bringing the Universe BACK into balance.

[JPH]

I know what you are all thinking...

it has been TEN YEARS.

Ten Looooogn years, and we were all deprived the chance to properly celebrate the 10th Anniversary of the greatest live-action Green Lantern movie of all time.

Also, the *ONLY* live action Green Lantern movie.

So, I needed a mask for costumes and today is your lucky day.

First, start off with reference pics...

 

[JPH]

Next generic paper mask.

And then realize it is poop, so instead cover your face with plastic wrap, apply FreeForm Air to your face infront of a mirror. Sit expressionless playing scales, in a chair while the stuff sets.

After it sets, sand it down to basic form

 

[JPH]

Next add the orbital details, making it lumpy again, then sand some more

 

[JPH]

Next, Xtc was applied using green pigment. Looks kinda blue to me tho.

Then painted with Rust-oleum aluminum 2X with the primer to bringnout the defects.

Patched up a few times, then switched to meadow green Rust-oleum and given several thick coats.

Debating if I should mold out of Sorta clear 40 now and cast or use meshroom to make a 3d stl which I can then cut in half, mirror image, and create a "perfectly symetrical 3D. It almost seems like the mask changes with different scenes, and I can only watch parts of this movie so many time before madness sets in.

Also, if I 3d print, I can angle the sides in ever-so-slightly, and maybe the mask will just grip my face without any adhesive. It already holds onto my face pretty well, and it is rigid

 

[JPH]

So, mental note: Rustoleum 2X ultracover can impair curing of Sorta-Clear 40. The sorta clear cured everywhere except in direct contact with the mask, so I pulled one out of Task 16 and it looks like burn victim lantern.

Also, delicate props and kids with bats dont always mix.

But a chance to sand is a chance to sculpt.

I will coat with resin only and used Rebound or EcoFlex instead.

 

[JPH]

Hello true believers!
Well, back to the fray!
Sanded and cleaned up and repaired the broken original mask to remove any chance of another mold reaction fail, and to try and make it more symmetrical.

Maybe I should change the thread's name to, "Help Me Rebound 25, You're My Only Hope."

Coated the cleaned up mask with lotsa release agent, and Rebound 25 applied.

So far, so good.

Should I have made a Rebound samich instead of a one piece mold? Last time I tried that with thin walls, the one piece fared gooder.

 

[JPH]

Next stop...

Mask Pox!!!

Use small pieces of foam, coated with Rebound 25 to create lumps in the Rebound 25. After that cures I can use FreeForm Air to make a hard, crunchy, outer shell, and *HOPEFULLY* this time I can make pretty mask out of Task 16.

 

[JPH]

Crunchy, hard, outer shell made of FreeForm Air applied. The Rebound 25 seems to have cured well.

The original mask is made of FreeForm air. Hopefully, I can get it out of the mold in one piece. Use lotsa lube (release agent).

Tomorrow I hope to cast a few mask out of Task 16.

I might feel adventurous and make one out of Sorta-Clear 40 as well.

Come on universe, needin sum currektin

 

[JPH]

Oh so close! Guestimated 4 oz o fluid to make the mold...the lateral horns are empty balloons.
Since Task 16 is mixed 2:1 by weight, I will try for 4.5 total next time.
Task 16 is also a little green, so I added 2 drops of UVO Green to the mix, may add a drop of white to lighten it up a hair.

When perfected, I will add glow in the dark powder to literally give it a glow.

 

[JPH]

Excellsior!!

Resolved horn issue by pouring a second time, about 15 min after the first pour

 

[JPH]

So, made anew mold for two reasons. One, the bottom is flat, so pouring upside down has less chance for defects and two, I wanted to get rid of the wrinkles on the inside of the mask so I can make *QUEUE MUSIC* transparent mask!!!

Oh and THREE Fast curing Ecoflex Sticks to Rebound25 even when mold release is brushed AND sprayed on.

All I did was apply xtc 3d to the back of the mask over and over and sanded until smooth. Also I added tape over eye holes, so mask wont be used for cosplay, just to make molds.

First test with new mold was Avarice or Orange Lantern.

I am happy wif it. 6 6 oz of Task 16 with orange pigment, orange gold powder and glow in the dark orange powder.

 

[Chris92]

Don't know how I missed this. This is some good, dedicated work, and I find myself kind of wanting one

 

[JPH]

Don't know how I missed this. This is some good, dedicated work, and I find myself kind of wanting one

Thanks!
These were built to fit my face snugly. It is weird when you make stuff like this and others try it on and you see the differences in people's faces. Small noses, BIG noses, round noses, pointy noses, cheekbones, orbital ridges, all subtly different resulting in gaps or unable to contact the face.

 

[JPH]

So, clear silicone update. Ecoflex 00-45 Near Clear

I got the see-through effect I was craving, but it feels like a piece of sushi on my face. Just enough green and glow-in-the-dark green powder. Very floppy/stretchy.

 

[JPH]

When a 4 year old is willing to sit still for forty minutes with plastic wrap and FreeForm Air on their face, it is time to make them a mask as well

 

[JPH]

Oh Stop! Stop!

I mean, "more."

No! Really. STOP! ***waves hand*** No, keep going!

What happens when you feed kids? And I'm not just talking about the glowing stuff from the nearby nuclear plant, I mean food no stuff?

Well, they grow.

Their...their FACES get bigger, man!!!

So, you hafta make a new round o mask for 'em!

Plastic wrap over the eyes and nose. A quick sculpt.

Then add details. Measure the side you like most and make a paper template to make both side symmetic...

Cover eyes holes with Gorilla tape.

Gorilla tape hanging from the bottom, because that is pretty straight.

Coat in Rebound 25...

The cast it! Used clear Eco-flex 50 and glow in the dark powder.

Whew! Has it really been TWELVE YEARS since the film.