Boomerang phaser: MR vs Rod.com

So this is interesting. I have the MR phaser and LOVE it. I agree having it be metal and feel "real" is great! The Rodd stuff is nice as well. But I do wonder about all the "The MR is idealized and the Rodd is more what the actual prop was" comments. I mean, I do get it, but really... I mean those "actual" props on the show didn't have sounds, lights etc. And most I have seen look pretty crappy since they were props...not collectibles. Non hero ones especially look crappy. So where is the line drawn? If u were collecting actual "replicas" wouldn't they really have to have no lights, sounds and look kinda junky??

Great comparison by the way.
 
So this is interesting. I have the MR phaser and LOVE it. I agree having it be metal and feel "real" is great! The Rodd stuff is nice as well. But I do wonder about all the "The MR is idealized and the Rodd is more what the actual prop was" comments. I mean, I do get it, but really... I mean those "actual" props on the show didn't have sounds, lights etc. And most I have seen look pretty crappy since they were props...not collectibles. Non hero ones especially look crappy. So where is the line drawn? If u were collecting actual "replicas" wouldn't they really have to have no lights, sounds and look kinda junky??

Great comparison by the way.

In this instance I assume we are all talking about idealized hero versions. Versions with every feature we could want, regardless of how they made them for the shows and movies. The productions had limitations to what they could allow. A collector is limited only by resources and what can be fit into the shell of the phaser.

Everyone's different and people want different things. I guess that's why HMS makes kits as well as build-ups, solid cast and hollow, to allow making everything from one side to the other. A solid cast kit made with the minimum of work would probably come very close to the phasers used in 99% of the series and movies. You don't even need a lot of experience with working with kits and props to get one of the HMS kits to that level since they are pretty clean and well cast.


Well I tried to sell my MR Sig.Ed. and failed for a second time. Must be a sign, I'll hold on to it now!

Yes, hang on to it!
 
If the EFX and HMS/Rod.com Tricorder can be used as another example of china vs. HMS, I would toss in my 3 cents and say this: I have both an HMS and an EFX and I favor
the HMS. While some things are evident at being hand done...the over all fit, finish and feel is nicer than the china made EFX. I also have the MR First Contact phaser but sadly, no HMS to compare it against....but somehow, I suspect I would prefer the HMS version.
 
If the EFX and HMS/Rod.com Tricorder can be used as another example of china vs. HMS, I would toss in my 3 cents and say this: I have both an HMS and an EFX and I favor
the HMS. While some things are evident at being hand done...the over all fit, finish and feel is nicer than the china made EFX. I also have the MR First Contact phaser but sadly, no HMS to compare it against....but somehow, I suspect I would prefer the HMS version.

Thanks for the info, that question was on my lips too. I take it the HMS tricorder is resin cast as opposed to metal? I like the idea of the EFX version as it's metallic and heavy, how does the HMS version compare in that respect?
 
If the EFX and HMS/Rod.com Tricorder can be used as another example of china vs. HMS, I would toss in my 3 cents and say this: I have both an HMS and an EFX and I favor
the HMS. While some things are evident at being hand done...the over all fit, finish and feel is nicer than the china made EFX. I also have the MR First Contact phaser but sadly, no HMS to compare it against....but somehow, I suspect I would prefer the HMS version.

Glad to see you can post, but cannot seem time to reply to PM's about your questionable past. But then, that's right in line with your questionable character, so I guess I'm not surprised!! :lol

ANYWAY, I am pretty sure the HMS/Rodd.com tricorders are a combination of vaccum formed plastic and resin. Just like they were on the show. I think they even re-tooled the rear lip on the main body to be laser cut acrylic. I forget.

But the exact same statements apply to the tricorder too. What you get from Rodd is pretty much the same thing as what HMS sent to the set, with some minor clean up for buildability. The collectors market version is an idealized, cleaned up version of that. There were also some subtle differences, like the way the hinges are installed. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying it's not great. I think both are super cool.

Aquaman also makes some great observations, but again it's a matter of preference. I own a couple screen used pieces (both trek and non-trek) that look like utter trash. They are beaten up, have paint chips, look like they've been dropped a NUMBER of times, and are well worn. But for me, the value is in their history, not in their displayability, or playability. There's also usually a pretty severe cost differential which the casual trek collector might find startling. For example, you can get a brand new, shiny phaser from Master replicas for a couple hundred bucks, or you can get a beaten up, trashed phaser that was screen used for a couple thousand. Go figure.

Oh, and a point of clarification. SOME of the onscreen phasers did have working lights. Certainly no sound, but lights, yes.
 
Glad to see you can post, but cannot seem time to reply to PM's about your questionable past. But then, that's right in line with your questionable character, so I guess I'm not surprised!! :lol

ANYWAY, I am pretty sure the HMS/Rodd.com tricorders are a combination of vaccum formed plastic and resin. Just like they were on the show. I think they even re-tooled the rear lip on the main body to be laser cut acrylic. I forget.

But the exact same statements apply to the tricorder too. What you get from Rodd is pretty much the same thing as what HMS sent to the set, with some minor clean up for buildability. The collectors market version is an idealized, cleaned up version of that. There were also some subtle differences, like the way the hinges are installed. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying it's not great. I think both are super cool.

Aquaman also makes some great observations, but again it's a matter of preference. I own a couple screen used pieces (both trek and non-trek) that look like utter trash. They are beaten up, have paint chips, look like they've been dropped a NUMBER of times, and are well worn. But for me, the value is in their history, not in their displayability, or playability. There's also usually a pretty severe cost differential which the casual trek collector might find startling. For example, you can get a brand new, shiny phaser from Master replicas for a couple hundred bucks, or you can get a beaten up, trashed phaser that was screen used for a couple thousand. Go figure.

Oh, and a point of clarification. SOME of the onscreen phasers did have working lights. Certainly no sound, but lights, yes.

Thanks again Matt, your knowledge knows no bounds. If there was a thank function on the forum I would have pressed it twice now:)
 
Thanks again Matt, your knowledge knows no bounds.

Well, let's not start in with the crazy-talk QUITE yet!!! :lol:lol But thank you for the kind words. Trek props, especially post-TOS, just happen to have a very special place in my heart, and I seem to have picked up a few tidbits of info along the way.

One of the great things about this forum is that many of the folks who worked on the shows and made the props we are talking about post here from time to time. Often with great information, insight, and even behind the scenes photos.
 
One difference I would like to know is if the Rod.com version has a much more silent button rather than that flimsy loud snap noise that the MR phaser gives off whenever you press one of it's buttons. I've seen all forms of Star Trek phasers both in the series and movies, and let me tell ya, none of them made a loud 'click'.
 
One difference I would like to know is if the Rod.com version has a much more silent button rather than that flimsy loud snap noise that the MR phaser gives off whenever you press one of it's buttons. I've seen all forms of Star Trek phasers both in the series and movies, and let me tell ya, none of them made a loud 'click'.

I agree, the click is irritating but in my experience, and some others can chime in with their experience but I have only found membrane switches to be "click-less" while most if not all tactile switches have some sort of click as the foil dome snaps downward under pressure. Now I said "click-less but it should be noted that they do have a muffled click, it just isn't loud enough to be heard and certainly not above the sound from the phaser.
 
One difference I would like to know is if the Rod.com version has a much more silent button rather than that flimsy loud snap noise that the MR phaser gives off whenever you press one of it's buttons. I've seen all forms of Star Trek phasers both in the series and movies, and let me tell ya, none of them made a loud 'click'.

There is a reason for that: none of the on-screen phasers had working triggers. Since there was no need for working emitters for VFX shots, they never had them. The only time they installed electronics was when they needed working power meters. 99% of the time the phasers were static.

And, if you didn't hear the click of the power setting buttons, it is because they either shot the close-ups MOS or cut the sound out in post in order to add the beep sound effects.

This is speaking only of the TNG phasers, of course, not of the TOS movie phasers. Most of which did have working emitters in the hero versions. The ST2,3, and 5 most certainly did.

But most electronics packages will have clicks to the buttons to one degree or another. Not all, but the majority will and the ones that HMS uses do AFAIK.
 
But most electronics packages will have clicks to the buttons to one degree or another. Not all, but the majority will and the ones that HMS uses do AFAIK.

True, but when you look at say, a TV remote or even a laptop keyboard, those types of buttons barely had a click. It was more of a quiet smoosh. I have a very recent Tivo remote, and those are some of the best buttons I've ever pressed on an electronic device that make very little noise and are very responsive.

Heck, my Star Trek: The Next Generation TV Remote didn't have those loud clicks!
 
Two words: custom electronics. Try contacting GMprops and see if it is possible to make an electronics package with clickless buttons.
 
True, but when you look at say, a TV remote or even a laptop keyboard, those types of buttons barely had a click. It was more of a quiet smoosh. I have a very recent Tivo remote, and those are some of the best buttons I've ever pressed on an electronic device that make very little noise and are very responsive.

Heck, my Star Trek: The Next Generation TV Remote didn't have those loud clicks!

Those employ membrane switches....
 
Well I tried to sell my MR Sig.Ed. and failed for a second time. Must be a sign, I'll hold on to it now!

Where did you try selling it and how much were you asking? MR First Contact Phasers usually get snapped up as soon as they appear. I've been looking for one forever, but the price always seems to be out of the ballpark.
 
Where did you try selling it and how much were you asking? MR First Contact Phasers usually get snapped up as soon as they appear. I've been looking for one forever, but the price always seems to be out of the ballpark.

ebay. Ended a few days ago. It started at £450.
 
That starting bid was a bit too high. I usually see them go for around $300-$400 USD. It's the TOS stuff that goes for high prices, the FC phaser really only goes for around the original retail price.
 
That starting bid was a bit too high. I usually see them go for around $300-$400 USD. It's the TOS stuff that goes for high prices, the FC phaser really only goes for around the original retail price.

It possibly was a little high but I've seen them go for circa £700 before. I would be reluctant to let it go hence only for a fairly good price.

After a Mark IX/X tricorder, open to a trade, will maybe stick it up in the junkyard when I'm eligible.
 
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