Bolsey Yoda Saber, need thoughts on final piece

jle2199

Member
I found a Bolsey camera a few months ago with a flash, so I grabbed it.

I took the flash apart and sold the camera and remaining bits to a friend.

I modeled a new band with what was my best interpretation of the oil pan and found images and measurements for the Lambo wheel and modeled it. I did all of my drawing in F360, I really want to learn FreeCAD, but there's some strange block in the way of me being able to use it easily lol.

ANYroad, I digest...

Thoughts? The pommel needs to be printed in resin or made from aluminum, I know, but I'm missing bits and I don't know where to get them or what they are...
 

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I found a Bolsey camera a few months ago with a flash, so I grabbed it.

I took the flash apart and sold the camera and remaining bits to a friend.

I modeled a new band with what was my best interpretation of the oil pan and found images and measurements for the Lambo wheel and modeled it. I did all of my drawing in F360, I really want to learn FreeCAD, but there's some strange block in the way of me being able to use it easily lol.

ANYroad, I digest...

Thoughts? The pommel needs to be printed in resin or made from aluminum, I know, but I'm missing bits and I don't know where to get them or what they are...
Aren't the prequels saber modeled from zero? I mean were they built like the saber of the OT?
 
Hi jle2199. I may be able to help. The first question would be how accurate are you shooting for? For example, the screw sitting atop the lambo wheel should actually be a panhead screw. As for "bits" you'd need, some of those would include a PEM nut (added to the "back" just underneath where the reflector attaches) and also a special nut that is used to attach the reflector to the body; this nut comes on the actual Praco version (as well as some random other brands) but it's also possible to fashion a pretty convincing one. I've got an example that I'll try to locate and post.
 
Aren't the prequels saber modeled from zero? I mean were they built like the saber of the OT?
Technically, you're right. Yoda's was *originally* modeled from zero, but then one of our own made a replica that ended up getting Mr. Lucas' attention - and approval - so was included within the canonical pages of the Visual Guide to Star Wars. It's a pretty interesting story you should check out some time

Edit: The details of this statement are incorrect. Please disregard.
 
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Technically, you're right. Yoda's was *originally* modeled from zero, but then one of our own made a replica that ended up getting Mr. Lucas' attention - and approval - so was included within the canonical pages of the Visual Guide to Star Wars. It's a pretty interesting story you should check out some time!
Is it in the prequels visual dictionary?
 
That order is backward. It was made for the visual dictionary first, then modeled for AOTC based on that design.

Ed could add more detail if he’d like. I’m sure it’s already laid out in the main thread. ed-209
Apologies if I gave incorrect info. I must've understood the timeline incorrectly.

Edit: I for sure understood the time line incorrectly. Thank you teecrooz for straightening out my mistake!
 
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If you want, we have a bunch of similar flashes here that have end caps similar to praco ones. They just have a hole in the side for a wire, easily plugged.

Pm me your address and I’ll dig around and send you one!
 
The link posted by teecrooz above should be everyone's first stop for this saber.
Here are some resources I used for my build. They might be duplicated elsewhere, but hopefully someone finds it useful.
Shapeways: Lor Designs by lluisoreja - Shapeways Shops
I believe this is the correct size brass slotted bolt: Chain Ring Bolt 1/4" Brass MALE dia x .50"L 8-32
Dark Energy Creations used to make an aluminum end cap to fit both Bolsey and Praco, but it's not currently on the product page.
 
Hi jle2199. I may be able to help. The first question would be how accurate are you shooting for? For example, the screw sitting atop the lambo wheel should actually be a panhead screw. As for "bits" you'd need, some of those would include a PEM nut (added to the "back" just underneath where the reflector attaches) and also a special nut that is used to attach the reflector to the body; this nut comes on the actual Praco version (as well as some random other brands) but it's also possible to fashion a pretty convincing one. I've got an example that I'll try to locate and post.
Thanks!

I was aware of the panhead, i have a tray of screws I need to go through and see if I have one.

How do you attach the PEM nut? I might have a few of those in a box...
I'd like to get the oil pan part more accurate, too. Might even post my files when I'm done, I'll probably make a praco from the tube that is the exact size of the bolsey/praco tube I got for my proton pack
 
How do you attach the PEM nut? I might have a few of those in a box...
The generally- accepted method (as far as I know) is to drill/tap the flash body to a thread size equivalent to the appropriate PEM nut. If memory serves correctly, I believe that the actual one was something like 4-40 threads. At that point, you would acquire a similar sized screw and cut off just enough so that you can thread it into the flash body and PEM nut (referring to reference photos for fine-tuning the adequate reveal of threads).
 
The generally- accepted method (as far as I know) is to drill/tap the flash body to a thread size equivalent to the appropriate PEM nut. If memory serves correctly, I believe that the actual one was something like 4-40 threads. At that point, you would acquire a similar sized screw and cut off just enough so that you can thread it into the flash body and PEM nut (referring to reference photos for fine-tuning the adequate reveal of threads).
Awesome! You had me considering drilling it for a through hole and putting the 4-40 through from the other side, but it looks like the tube will take a 4-40 thread and have a few threads.
 
Correct. You're not using the screw head at all; just a few rounds of the actual threaded part. The tube wall is tapped to accept the threads and nothing should protrude beyond the inner wall of the tube at all. There isn't much there but it's enough to hold the screw threads in place (possibly aided with a little supper glue or epoxy for good measure).
 

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