Blade Runner 2049 Voight Kampff Eye Scanner Tutorial / Buildup
- Thread starter JOATRASH FX
- Start date
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- blade runner 2049
Haha, thanks.
Did a full build with the new shell last night and I'm happy to report that IT WORKED! Easy access to the battery. The actual connector takes a little effort to pull out, but doing so once every few years shouldn't be too much of a problem.
And just because I'm a deranged, masochistic idiot who can't seem to let things go, I am trying one final (I REALLY hop this time) tweak. Having to turn the power on/off with a toothpivk (like they did with the K blaster on set) was bugging me.
The image below is an experiment. The lower pair of buttons (orange) will slide up/down and maneuver the power switch (light blue). Using the last of my resin, I'm printing a test. If this works, ALL the buttons on the scanner will be functional and no toothpick will be needed. I do suspect it might be too fragile or that the slider will not be stable enough, but we'll see. If it doesn't work, at least I tried. Note: The green color bar represents where the screen will be. Movement of the power switch is only 1.5mm back and forth. That's how tight it is inside the case!
Did a full build with the new shell last night and I'm happy to report that IT WORKED! Easy access to the battery. The actual connector takes a little effort to pull out, but doing so once every few years shouldn't be too much of a problem.
And just because I'm a deranged, masochistic idiot who can't seem to let things go, I am trying one final (I REALLY hop this time) tweak. Having to turn the power on/off with a toothpivk (like they did with the K blaster on set) was bugging me.
The image below is an experiment. The lower pair of buttons (orange) will slide up/down and maneuver the power switch (light blue). Using the last of my resin, I'm printing a test. If this works, ALL the buttons on the scanner will be functional and no toothpick will be needed. I do suspect it might be too fragile or that the slider will not be stable enough, but we'll see. If it doesn't work, at least I tried. Note: The green color bar represents where the screen will be. Movement of the power switch is only 1.5mm back and forth. That's how tight it is inside the case!
AnubisGuard
Master Member
You're a madman.
DONE.
(Well, aside from the paint and a couple cosmetic items.)
(Well, aside from the paint and a couple cosmetic items.)
OK, so things have been a bit silent here for a while, but I now have some laser-cut aluminum and steel parts for my final buildup of this. To that end, I've restarted from scratch with freshly printed parts and will be updating here as I go!
First, here's a snapshot of the metal. The first attempt went a little wrong... something happened with the central (aluminum) arm so the parts I got were MUCH too big, but after having them recut, it's looking mighty nice!
Sandwiched here are two 0.5mm steel plates on top of the 2mm central arm. On the other side will go another two steel plates, with the circuit board in between. Note: I think the alu arm on the screen prop is 3-4mm thick but since I had to accommodate a working screen inside, I needed to save some thickness for it to fit. The two holes on th elower part of the arm will be used to pin all the parts in place, to add strength against the shock-force of the popup arm hitting the 'stop' when it opens. I doubt the pins are really necessary, but why risk it if there's even a small chance of the parts coming undone after a bit of use.
First, here's a snapshot of the metal. The first attempt went a little wrong... something happened with the central (aluminum) arm so the parts I got were MUCH too big, but after having them recut, it's looking mighty nice!
Sandwiched here are two 0.5mm steel plates on top of the 2mm central arm. On the other side will go another two steel plates, with the circuit board in between. Note: I think the alu arm on the screen prop is 3-4mm thick but since I had to accommodate a working screen inside, I needed to save some thickness for it to fit. The two holes on th elower part of the arm will be used to pin all the parts in place, to add strength against the shock-force of the popup arm hitting the 'stop' when it opens. I doubt the pins are really necessary, but why risk it if there's even a small chance of the parts coming undone after a bit of use.
OK, it's been nuts behind the scenes, but I finally have time to show a full buildup of my 'final' version of this. Here we go. Apologies if I repost a photo or two that has been seen before.
First, let's kick off where we left it... METAL PARTS!
Overall really happy with how these turned out.
Test-fitting to a shell:
The laser took off maybe 0.3mm more than I thought it would, but it's fine. (The holes are not uneven... it's just he burn marks from the laser causing that illusion.)
Assembling the main popup arm. Making sure the plastic guide block slides freely.
Glueing the buide block to the aluminum arm:
Trimming the thin steel plates.
Time for some paint!
I gave the shell a black base coat (to stop any light bleed-through), then hit it with a bright metallic. Some "liguid green stuff" takes care of any places that need smoothing.
Dark gunmetal on the back plates, then decals, then a satin clear coat.
More to come!
First, let's kick off where we left it... METAL PARTS!
Overall really happy with how these turned out.
Test-fitting to a shell:
The laser took off maybe 0.3mm more than I thought it would, but it's fine. (The holes are not uneven... it's just he burn marks from the laser causing that illusion.)
Assembling the main popup arm. Making sure the plastic guide block slides freely.
Glueing the buide block to the aluminum arm:
Trimming the thin steel plates.
Time for some paint!
I gave the shell a black base coat (to stop any light bleed-through), then hit it with a bright metallic. Some "liguid green stuff" takes care of any places that need smoothing.
Dark gunmetal on the back plates, then decals, then a satin clear coat.
More to come!
Got to see the Hero at Petersen Auto Museum. May help for reference.
A cool exhibit. Thanks for sharing your photos, Macorrie.
JOATRASH FX asked if i could share other shots from tue exhibit. These were the best i could get through the glass
It seemed like paint to me
Awesome shots, thank you Sir!
I have it on good authority that the grips were indeed painted, not dipped or carbon wrapped!
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