Blade Runner 2049 Memory Orb Build

Empiricus

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Decided to make this into a build thread to share how this will go and to have a central place to gather the info and advise I found here.
build1 .JPG Build2.JPG

The original design was done by Mike Hill
https://www.artstation.com/mikehill

Kyle Martin founder of Moxie Tool turned it into a physical, functional piece machined out of Aluminum.

The Orb is shown in great detail here: https://www.moxietool.com (Click 'Projects' for detailed photos) originally posted by Buch.

I decided to make one for myself that resembles the concept as I love the movie and this is a fascinating design.
Obviously this needs a lot of specific changes to be 3D printable and that is another interesting challenge.

If anyone can share experiences with emulating anodized Al, chrome, brushed metal etc, I would be grateful.

Already got great advise on the metal finishing from Mr Mold Maker. Learning to airbrush....

The electronics could be just analogue, but I would prefer to have a trinket/arduino drive this to change direction and speed of the five dc motors. However can't find anything with five dc motor drivers. If someone has a sketch that integrates DC motors with a rotary encoder it would be great as an example.

Also the small gradations (black arrows) are too small to be 3D printed so I need advise on decal methods that could be used.

Please share your experiences.

Orb3.JPG


build1 .JPG


Build2.JPG
 
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Mr Mold Maker

Master Member
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb

383CDF76-EEDD-4251-8810-D06F4F93F7C9.jpeg B7648576-528B-45A1-81FA-3C6E4DBE06F7.jpeg EDBE263E-0E83-4864-B526-DE45C212F7CD.jpeg 7BCE2211-F026-4E80-BAF8-824A223A0511.jpeg 5AD83D99-F865-4B25-B3CD-3C8DDFF63A2C.jpeg


I’ve got a little bit of experience with metal paint.. maybe one or two things.. :lol

I selected all of these photos not to show off.. well, just a little.. but mainly to showcase different techniques. Some of which may cover what you’re looking to do.
I’ll start off by saying that in most cases, for chrome or high shine metals, you’ll need a gloss black base and an airbrush. The surface prep on your piece is the most important thing when trying to convey a metal finish. If there are print lines, it just won’t look right. Favorites for this are Alclad II Polished Aluminum, Spaz Stix Chrome, Alumaluster, or Molotow Liquid Chrome. For a dull or brushed finish, a satin black base is good, or simply sealing the chrome with a clear medium can dull it down slightly. For brushed specifically you can run a scotch brite pad directionally along the Gloss black surface before spraying your chrome, that will give a very nice look.

The Star-Lord blasters show Alclad II sealed with Aquagloss for a satin look on the body. The “batteries” at the butt of the blaster were done with Molotow Liquid Chrome. You’ll see a very clear difference in the finish.
The Predator (P1) Bio shows Alumaluster and Shrapnel, (which are metal paints by Imperial Surface) actually stippled onto the surface with a sponge in a few layers. It gives a very nice broken up metal effect. Alclad sells Polished Alumimum and Dark Aluminum which would be very close to these colors.
The chrome skulls show two different finishes, a chrome paint on the left, and Silver Nitrate on the right. That’s a whole different can of worms, a lot of tricky work, 2K clear coats, chemicals, etc. For a chrome finish, the only thing that beats it is plating IMO.
The P2 Bio shows a silver nitrate chrome that has been topcoated to make a mirror gold, and then weathered.
The final helmet is a Lord Marshal helmet, and shows a combination of pretty much all these techniques and materials except for the Silver Nitrate.
You have Alumaluster and Shrapnel spattered on out of an HVLP gun. You have Alclad drybrushed on the face plate. You have airbrushed highlights.

All this to say basically, you can get all of the surface finishes and more with simple materials. Buy some Alclad Polished Aluminum, Dark Aluminum, Airframe Aluminum.. and go from there. You will need an airbrush as I said for the high shine stuff, and a gloss black base beneath it. If for whatever reason you are absolutely against the purchase of an airbrush, I have seen my friend Daniel (The_Digital_Armory on Instagram) take Graphite Powder and rub it into a gloss black base and that made a very nice metallic shine. You won’t have the fine control or color variation on that though. I hope this long winded post has been somewhat informative.
 

Empiricus

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb

Brilliant. Impressive props, very encouraging that it will be possible to get an convincing surface. This will be fun to explore and a perfect reason to get an airbrush finally. Thank you so much for sharing this advice.
 

Empiricus

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb

Do you think it is worth trying the newer Acrylic Vallejo Metal colors as well or are the Lacquer ones clearly superior?
 

Great_Bizarro

Sr Member
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb

I found this comparison of different chrome paints informative
Search "Chrome Spray Paint Comparison" by Wayne Schmidt on Youtube
 
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Mr Mold Maker

Master Member
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb

Do you think it is worth trying the newer Acrylic Vallejo Metal colors as well or are the Lacquer ones clearly superior?


I haven’t had the chance to try those out yet, but they look like they may work. It doesn’t seem to have quite the same shine, but if you’re going for the more dull metal effects they could be super nice.
 

Empiricus

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb

I will compare these with the Alclad ones. I figured out the mechanics, 3D printing and electronics but the paint finish and labeling will be the challenge to meet for me on this project.
 

Empiricus

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb

All set to start the Lacquer versus Acrylic metal comparison (and Spaz Stix and Molotow liquid chrome).

IMG_1390.JPG
 

joberg

Master Member
Looking great! I know that Adam Savage did a video of his "One day build" (DaveG snub gun from Blade Runner) and used a great chrome paint and a transparent sealer that didn't dull the chrome finish...
 

Empiricus

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: Simulate Anodized Aluminium and Chrome for 3D prints of Blade Runner Memory Orb

Need to get close to the anodized Al look off the orb rings, so these acrylic paints may get me there

Acrylic test
Vallejo
Chrome
Aluminum
Dark Aluminum
Dura Aluminum
Magnesium
Metal varnish
Grey surface primer
Black surface primer
Montana Varnish spray Matt T1010

Completely subjective opinion:

For chrome look - no

Al and Chrome come out very similar, looks like anodized Al.
Aluminum looks best on grey/white background others are best on black.
Dark and Duraluminum are fantastic anodized Al colors.
Magnesium is beautiful, I will use this for the darker ring of the Orb.

Best results were on surfaces that had first the black primer and then Montana Matt Varnish applied to them as a foundation. Will test a high gloss Varnish. The Metal Varnish from Vallejo is just weird doesn't help, at least in my inexperienced hands.

IMG_1392.JPG
 
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Empiricus

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thank you. I have a Molotow chrome pen and that Alclad varnish. Will be part of the next test looking at the lacquer paints.
 

xl97

Master Member
Perhaps look into using a servo (360 degree version) or a stepper motor...

I think it will give you the speed and control you need... instead of just a motor.

Everything looks great so far!
 

Empiricus

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Certainly an option. If you have good suggestions please share. But space is a problem with servos. Would need to fit into 20x15x15mm. Also power consumption as they draw power even when not moving. I am limited to a 2200 mAh Lipo. Price point as well space for feather with two motor boards would be difficult to accommodate. Would like to have this self contained.
 
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