Bandai 1:72 Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon
- Thread starter JV1138
- Start date
There are some after market decals:
Star Wars Bandai 1/72 PG Millennium Falcon stencil waterslide decals pro grade | eBay
Painstakingly recreated to match the original set, with white underlay to help with opacity.
www.ebay.com
Star Wars Decals Bandai PG 1/72 Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon panels | eBay
Printed on high resolution translucent laser decal film.
www.ebay.com
The decals from this guy are usually pretty good and sometimes even better than the originals.
Pressure.
Soak them with Micro Sol and then press them with your finger, cotton swap or make-up sponges over the raised details. Use a needle or sharp tipped knife to make some holes, if there is air trapped under the decal.
As stated above, soak that thing in Micro Sol, and then wait a few minutes and then carefully hit it with a hair dryer. Helps suck the decal down really well.
Dedalus5550
Sr Member
Solvaset for me.
JV1138
Well-Known Member
Does Solvaset work better than Micro Sol, or about the same?
Dedalus5550
Sr Member
I find it is much more reactive, like it will do much more damage to the decal if you're not used to it. So it's good to practice with spare decals and spare kits. Within a few seconds or a few minutes, the decal will easily peel apart if you're still messing with it. And since it has a setting component, it will pull into the part and the groove if you leave it alone. Even I get some cracking, but by the time it dries, it usually has pulled back together--or it's weathering, right?
JV1138
Well-Known Member
Ventral side panel decals complete. Next up, clearcoats. Overall, the entire model took 4 days full-time to build, and another few weeks on and off on the decals. I got a little lazy on the decals, so it took me longer to do them than the build itself. How long did it take to build the model for you guys, before the painting and decals?
Here's what the underside looks like.
Any advice on how to put clearcoat on this? Should I use both Dullcote and Glosscote? Which order? Any help would be appreciated.
Here's what the underside looks like.
Any advice on how to put clearcoat on this? Should I use both Dullcote and Glosscote? Which order? Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited:
Analyzer
Master Member
generally gloss varnish first, apply decals, and an washes/oil weathering etc... then dull with a matte varnish
after dull coating is then when I would do some pastels or mist coats
Chrisisall
Sr Member
I dislike decals. I paint everything unless it's a tiny one with writing or numbers. You're doing a good job with them, though!
I must admit to being jealous. This is THE kit.
I must admit to being jealous. This is THE kit.
JV1138
Well-Known Member
I just applied two coats of gloss clearcoat on each side of the model. HOWEVER, I did NOT realize that there were dust particles all over the model, and I ended up clearcoating the dust particles permanently anyway. I should've cleaned the model FIRST before clearcoating. Will this be a major problem later on when it comes to weathering the model? Please let me know.
Chrisisall
Sr Member
With a kit this big and expensive I'd remove the clear coat. If you don't, you'll never be completely happy with it. Unless you weather the felgercarb out of it- and I don't know if you want to go that heavy just to cover up all that. Which unfortunately means all the decals will be trashed & you'll have to paint them on. That's why I always paint mine on- decals just suck unless you clear coat them. I never clear coat.
SCUDMAN
Sr Member
If the dust really bothers you, try wet sanding the model lightly with 1,000 grit sandpaper. Be careful not to sand down into the decals. The decals will appear hazy after sanding. After sanding clear coat the model again. Continue the process of sanding then clear coating until you get the desired results…. This is a process that a lot of modelers use to make the decals look like they are part of the paint. Check on YouTube for a step by step tutorial. Good luck.
Chrisisall
Sr Member
Yes, this would work! I'd take the easier way out though, myself.
JiminSTLouis
Sr Member
Damn nice work!
JV1138,
Do not feel bad, this type of stuff happens to the best, regardless of experience. Think carefully before each corrective action step. Take your time using the above advise from those on this web. You have done a great job on a complex kit. Rework is all part of the game when the unforeseen happens.
Do not feel bad, this type of stuff happens to the best, regardless of experience. Think carefully before each corrective action step. Take your time using the above advise from those on this web. You have done a great job on a complex kit. Rework is all part of the game when the unforeseen happens.
JV1138
Well-Known Member
I have ACTUALLY decided that the dust particles do NOT bother me all that much, since the weathering will mostly hide it anyway. Attempting to correct the problem like Scudman mentioned sounds easier said than done, and would take a lot more work than I'm willing to put into it. So I decided to put the first round of weathering on the model. Not bad so far. Will do the underside next. Any thoughts on this decision? Should I still try to remove the dust? I'm not that bothered by it, to be honest, since it's not really that noticeable.
