Bandai 1:72 Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon

I have ACTUALLY decided that the dust particles do NOT bother me all that much, since the weathering will mostly hide it anyway. Attempting to correct the problem like Scudman mentioned sounds easier said than done, and would take a lot more work than I'm willing to put into it. So I decided to put the first round of weathering on the model. Not bad so far. Will do the underside next. Any thoughts on this decision? Should I still try to remove the dust? I'm not that bothered by it, to be honest, since it's not really that noticeable.

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If it doesn't bother you, then that's all that matters! Heck, it *may* even add a bit of texture that will end up looking good....
 
If it doesn't bother you, then that's all that matters! Heck, it *may* even add a bit of texture that will end up looking good....
Yeah, ok. I kinda like the idea of the dust particles adding to the dirty and worn down look of the ship. The dust isn't noticeable from a good distance away anyway.
 
Sounds good to me. The process I described is a lot of work, especially on a large model like the one you are working on.
Thanks for the suggestion though! I do not currently have the proper skill to carefully sand down any part of the model. I would feel too intimidated and might screw up in the process. Don't wanna do that! Besides, I think the dust particles add to the dirty overall look of the ship.
 
Engine deck and ventral side wash just about complete. Not quite sure what to do next. Will likely tone down the wash in the panel lines and start the real weathering process.

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What's the next step I should take? Should I start painting the streaks and weathering, or should I put the tiny miscellaneous decals that are scattered all around the hull of the ship? Any advice is welcome. :)
 
I just painted the edge of the engine plates, or whatever they're called, by the engines. I think they turned out well.

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Also, I'm not quite sure which direction I should go. Should I go ahead and start weathering the model and add the streaks, or should I add the tiny decals all around the model first, like in the bottom picture? Any advice?

PG Decals 1.jpg
 
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Generally you want to do all your painting and decaling first before weathering

The reason is you want those to be a part of the weathering

For example, if you have a dirty grimy area, and a pristine clean decal is placed over it, the decal will look odd unless the intent was to show someone cleaned off the decal area. Maybe that is appropriate for something to see a registration number or something

likewise, a painted area should be done first unless you want that painted area to look like it got a fresh coat of paint

One thing to make sure with the decals is to gloss coat the area you are applying it to, then give then a day or two to dry fully, then seal the area again with some gloss coat to protect it from any weathering steps

An alternative I sometimes use when I am concerned the weathering process may damage the decais is to do all my really heavy oil weathering first, since that process can involve using turpentine washes and lots of rubbing with a towel/cloth, then when dry, seal it with gloss, apply decals, and then do a final light pass of weathering/mist coating
 
Generally you want to do all your painting and decaling first before weathering

The reason is you want those to be a part of the weathering

For example, if you have a dirty grimy area, and a pristine clean decal is placed over it, the decal will look odd unless the intent was to show someone cleaned off the decal area. Maybe that is appropriate for something to see a registration number or something

likewise, a painted area should be done first unless you want that painted area to look like it got a fresh coat of paint

One thing to make sure with the decals is to gloss coat the area you are applying it to, then give then a day or two to dry fully, then seal the area again with some gloss coat to protect it from any weathering steps

An alternative I sometimes use when I am concerned the weathering process may damage the decais is to do all my really heavy oil weathering first, since that process can involve using turpentine washes and lots of rubbing with a towel/cloth, then when dry, seal it with gloss, apply decals, and then do a final light pass of weathering/mist coating
So should I add the decals first, then spray a gloss coat, then add the weathering? That much I think I understand. Should I also spray a dull coat afterwards? Maybe explain it a little more concisely, maybe? :)
 
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Just completed the decals on the dorsal side of the ship. Next thing now is to spray a coat of gloss coat over the top side of the model. Next up, the ventral side.

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yes, gloss, decals, gloss, weathering, and then dull

You want a gloss under the decals to prevent "silvering"
The thing is, I already sprayed two coats of gloss coat over the panel decals. Then I added the small decal markings all over the model. I might spray another coat of gloss over that. But I think I should spray the dull coat afterwards because the shiny surface isn't really suitable for weathering properly. You get a nicer texture and weathering quality on top of the dull coat. What do you think? Weathering after dull coat?
 
The thing is, I already sprayed two coats of gloss coat over the panel decals. Then I added the small decal markings all over the model. I might spray another coat of gloss over that. But I think I should spray the dull coat afterwards because the shiny surface isn't really suitable for weathering properly. You get a nicer texture and weathering quality on top of the dull coat. What do you think? Weathering after dull coat?
depends on what kind of weathering techniques

Things like panel line/pin washes work best over a gloss coat as they do not stain as much and forces the wash to settle into recesses easier while keeping the raised areas clean or at least easier to clean off.

In some cases though, for DOT filtering and streaking/ weathering with oil paints or dry brushing, a semi gloss or matte varnish is better

Things like pastels/powders would also adhere better to a matte varnish
 
He's primarily an armour modeler rather than SF subjetcs, but this guy on YouTube does some of the best weathering I've ever seen. And he talks through exactly what type of paint/vernish he uses at what stage. Maybe worth a look to get some inspiration? I'm definitely going to use some of his techniques on my 1/350 K'Tinga when I come to paint it.
 
depends on what kind of weathering techniques

Things like panel line/pin washes work best over a gloss coat as they do not stain as much and forces the wash to settle into recesses easier while keeping the raised areas clean or at least easier to clean off.

In some cases though, for DOT filtering and streaking/ weathering with oil paints or dry brushing, a semi gloss or matte varnish is better

Things like pastels/powders would also adhere better to a matte varnish
I did my pin washes on the panel lines over the gloss coat. I'll do the streaking and weathering over a dull coat. And then another coat of dull coat to finish it off. Sounds reasonable?
 
yep

the last dull coat after streaking etc... may or may not be needed

I often skip it unless there are any obvious glossy parts left
 
yep

the last dull coat after streaking etc... may or may not be needed

I often skip it unless there are any obvious glossy parts left
I kinda need the last layer of dull coat over the streaks to protect the weathering and so I can also actually hold the model as well!
 
I kinda need the last layer of dull coat over the streaks to protect the weathering and so I can also actually hold the model as well!

technically there is a difference between dull coat and matte varnish

Something like Testors dull coat is not a sealant. It simply dulls the shine

Matte varnish is a sealant, and give a matte finish instead of gloss

While it may sound nit picky it is an important distinction when it comes to applying layers over top that may require a protective seal coat
 
technically there is a difference between dull coat and matte varnish

Something like Testors dull coat is not a sealant. It simply dulls the shine

Matte varnish is a sealant, and give a matte finish instead of gloss

While it may sound nit picky it is an important distinction when it comes to applying layers over top that may require a protective seal coat
Alright, thanks for the heads up. I'll apply a matte varnish over the weathering on my model. Also, is a matte varnish more durable than a dull coat? Does it turn yellowish with time as well? My 1:144 Falcon turned somewhat yellowish because I applied a few coats of Testors dull coat on it.
 
Alright, thanks for the heads up. I'll apply a matte varnish over the weathering on my model. Also, is a matte varnish more durable than a dull coat? Does it turn yellowish with time as well? My 1:144 Falcon turned somewhat yellowish because I applied a few coats of Testors dull coat on it.

Might depend on what brand and how much UV/Sun light the model is exposed to

I have heard of Testors Dull Coat yellowing over time, I have some models I have used it but have not noticed. In all fairness though, none of them are mostly white so it would be harder to notice anyway

Personally I use Vallejo matte varnish applied with an airbrush, but for figures I use for table top gaming that are prone to getting dropped, and handled a lot, I use Citadel matte varnish from a rattle can
 
Just finished the decal markings on the sidewalls of the mandibles and the docking rings. I think I'm just about done with the decal markings on the entire model, but I might've missed a couple. I wasn't able to apply the yellow decals on the Entex rotary engines because I ruined one of them, and also because they weren't the correct shade of yellow. I'll just paint them in the end.

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I think I'm ready to start the weathering process. What do you guys think? I think I'm pretty much done with the decals anyway. I think I'll spray a coat of dull coat first though. Let me know what you think.
 
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