Bandai 1/144 ROS Falcon kit as ESB/ROTJ era Falcon? That's my goal. And I seem to have reached it. Now it needs a few friends in its scale...

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Chrisisall

Sr Member
Twisted hull plates done.
IMG_20210327_111321.jpg
IMG_20210327_111338.jpg
 
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Gregatron

Sr Member
While I agree with you in that going superdetailed with something like the cockpit figures tends not to be so impactful to the overall model, it’s little things like the bent hull plates which really add to the scale effect.

The trick, I think, is knowing which details will stand out, and which are pointless busywork. As a general rule, I’d say anything noticeable at first glance from 1-2 feet away should be focused on, while the nitty-gritty details can be more impressionistic and less, well, detailed.
 

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Jaitea

Master Member
While I agree with you in that going superdetailed with something like the cockpit figures tends not to be so impactful to the overall model, it’s little things like the bent hull plates which really add to the scale effect.

The trick, I think, is knowing which details will stand out, and which are pointless busywork. As a general rule, I’d say anything noticeable at first glance from 1-2 feet away should be focused on, while the nitty-gritty details can be more impressionistic and less, well, detailed.

Yes, I agree,...I made a video that I put up on my channel about weathering,....& I mentioned that i try to print out reference photos that will be the same size as the model I'm working on, or the area that I'm working on, its senseless using really high res zoomed in reference images on an area that is impossible to recreate

It's good to understand what that detail looks like zoomed up, but revert back to an image that is scaled right for the work you are doing

J
 
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Chrisisall

Sr Member
It's good to understand what that detail looks like zoomed up, but revert back to an image that is scaled right for the work you are doing

J
Exactly! I tend to hyper-focus on small areas, and need to reign that in to look at the bigger picture. I'm constantly battling myself in that way. When I start to search for tiny adjustments after basically finishing a kit I know I'm actually done.
 

Chrisisall

Sr Member
Endgame: last bits before painting & final assembly & weathering- filling in unused holes, simplifying the sidewalls just a tad, and adding greebles here & there (mainly on the docking rings which were for reasons unknown very clear except for the panel lines). Final sanding to finesse new greebles tomorrow after glue sets.

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Chrisisall

Sr Member
I began painting the cockpit & gunner bays today, and then put the windows over them after the base coat & I was like "I can't see a thing in this helmet!" Saved myself a little work as I'll really just paint the white bar lights & the red, white & blue console & wall lights. No need to go trying to be cool with the different black & gray walls and stuff- I'll never see any real work I do in there. And it boggles my mind- someone makes an accurized 3D printed cockpit for this kit, LOL!!!

IMG_20210329_174246.jpg
 

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JNordgren42

Active Member
I began painting the cockpit & gunner bays today, and then put the windows over them after the base coat & I was like "I can't see a thing in this helmet!" Saved myself a little work as I'll really just paint the white bar lights & the red, white & blue console & wall lights. No need to go trying to be cool with the different black & gray walls and stuff- I'll never see any real work I do in there. And it boggles my mind- someone makes an accurized 3D printed cockpit for this kit, LOL!!!
Looking good! Even with the open version of the canopy frame, it's exceedingly difficult to see anything in there. And they don't give you glassless gun bay frames for some unfathomable reason so those are even worse. I essentially made the same decision you did, I didn't even bother to fix the headrests on the rear seats.
 

starks

Well-Known Member
I began painting the cockpit & gunner bays today, and then put the windows over them after the base coat & I was like "I can't see a thing in this helmet!" Saved myself a little work as I'll really just paint the white bar lights & the red, white & blue console & wall lights. No need to go trying to be cool with the different black & gray walls and stuff- I'll never see any real work I do in there. And it boggles my mind- someone makes an accurized 3D printed cockpit for this kit, LOL!!!

View attachment 1441632
Its mind blowing Bandai have so much moulded detail in that cockpit. At that scale some paint on a flat surface and a good transfer would have been more than sufficient.
Coming together well!
Cheers,
Josh
 

Chrisisall

Sr Member
The cockpit is a bit of a safe space on this model (figures as well)- there's not much to mess up if you can't see it well. Still, I'm doing the best I can.
*edit* I bought a whole bottle of Testors Gold for ONE brush-full to do this 3PO figure?!?!?!?
IMG_20210329_205607.jpg
 
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starks

Well-Known Member
That was totally worth buying the testors gold, 3p0 looks the goods.
That will be good on the cockpit, it shows its been detailed and you will be able to peek inside and catch glimpses of those blue and red and white lights.
Nice job!
Cheers,
Josh
 

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Chrisisall

Sr Member
Hit a wall. I decided not to use the clear canopy- I hate the look of painted-on window separators... so I went to LHS but they had no clear styrene. I got the Clear-Lay film that they did have, but I tested it and no glue I have will hold it to styrene.
So I hadda order it. So I have like 6 days to paint this beast until it arrives.
IMG_20210330_154006.jpg
 

Chrisisall

Sr Member
If you have no use for the glass version, I have a Lando 1/144 Falcon that would love to have the glass version;)
Oh, sorry, I was also experimenting with whether I could sufficiently shave it down to fit it inside the glass-less one. It's quite destroyed now...
 
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