majenko
Member
It runs off anything from about 4v up to 9v, so the world is your mollusc of choice.
Aliens Pulse Rifle Counter - How should it work?
- Thread starter majenko
- Start date
majenko
Member
3.3v, but for more powerful LEDs you should really add a transistor to run them as it can't provide much current.
majenko
Member
Ouch, that's meaty. What did you drive it with?
The RFX board had a satalite amp board that drove the speaker and LEDs. I heard, just before he got deployed, that he released a new board with an onboard amp and no satalite. I'm sure I probably overpowered the board with the Luxeons, but it never crapped out.
Hopefully the following meets with better approval.
Why not multiple colored or plain white LEDS in the shroud that covers the barrel?
Placed so they cannot be seen, behind each metal grate/vertical support.
If you watch the movie, when the pr fire it lights up a bit due to the muzzle flash.
ONE led in the barrel tip that you cant even see if you are holding it, just does not seam to do it justice.
Why not multiple colored or plain white LEDS in the shroud that covers the barrel?
Placed so they cannot be seen, behind each metal grate/vertical support.
If you watch the movie, when the pr fire it lights up a bit due to the muzzle flash.
ONE led in the barrel tip that you cant even see if you are holding it, just does not seam to do it justice.
majenko
Member
Hmmm... There is a space on the board that I have reserved for people to attach fixings to (roughly where the screws would be). I could sacrifice that space and add some transistors linked to the 5 PWM channels for directly driving more powerful LEDs. For 3W though you should really have a constant current driver though.
majenko
Member
That certainly would be funky. If it's to light up at the same time as the barrel tip LED, then no extra coding would be needed, it could just share the same feed. If you wanted it to be more of a pulse of say 3 LEDs lighting in sequence, that could certainly be done. Not sure if it should make the "default" firmware though. A good add-on idea though.
Mine was definately not the best solution for doing a muzzle flash for sure. And unless you had the gun pointed at you you could not see the LED very well at all. Trying to replicate light (muzzle flash) that in reality happens outside of the barrel with something inside the barrel is going to be difficult.
Another option would be to have a series of surpressor type holes drilled around the barrels tip with a bright LED mounted in the barrel.
Malphas
Well-Known Member
Just saying that grenade count would be 3. If you could, make it count off the grenade by just going back to the trigger instead of pumping it again otherwise you'd just eject a round.
It's not an automatic loading shotgun so it would not eject the shell after firing. You would need to rack to eject and to load the next round.
Counter would show 95 and 3 after mag insertion. Rack the pump. Counter shows 2 rounds remaining. Pull trigger and fire. Rack again and counter shows 1 round remaining. Pull trigger and fire. Rack again and counter would show 0 rounds remaining. Pull trigger and fire. After this the GL trigger would dry fire. To reset and add three more rounds you could do a seperate switch or just by racking the pump again would load three more shells. Or, you could be out until the ammo counter goes from 95 to 0 and the mag is removed and replaced, thus resetting all counters back to 95 and 3.
There's several ways you could do it.
Counter would show 95 and 3 after mag insertion. Rack the pump. Counter shows 2 rounds remaining. Pull trigger and fire. Rack again and counter shows 1 round remaining. Pull trigger and fire. Rack again and counter would show 0 rounds remaining. Pull trigger and fire. After this the GL trigger would dry fire. To reset and add three more rounds you could do a seperate switch or just by racking the pump again would load three more shells. Or, you could be out until the ammo counter goes from 95 to 0 and the mag is removed and replaced, thus resetting all counters back to 95 and 3.
There's several ways you could do it.
I'm no computer programmer by any means and that is why I suggested the "Options" list of special programming for the customers needs. Have a base set up with base features. Then list what the customer can have changed in the programming when they go to make a purchase. What to add or take away would be something you would have to come with as the programmer doing the work.
majenko
Member
I am considering a website that will let the customer automatically generate their own version of the firmware with specific options turned on/off, or with specific settings - even allowing them to upload and convert their own samples.
majenko
Member
So I collect lightsabers as well. This saber is one I had built for me. It uses a 27mm 2w Railmaster Bass speaker which sounds real good and is plenty loud. What have you been looking at as far as speakers go?
I haven't. It's up to the customer what they do in that respect. The unit has a 1.8W power amp, so it will drive something with plenty of grunt.
majenko
Member
Probably not until after the new year (chinese) as I doubt I can get the new boards made before then. Especially if I'm redesigning the expansion port area to give 5 transistors (or maybe a ULN2003 if it's smaller).
majenko
Member
OK, so I have removed two of the PWM channels (ones that aren't shared with anything else of importance) from the expansion header, and created a pair of open collector high current LED sinks for connecting high wattage LEDs up to. You'll still need to add some high wattage resistors to limit the current, depending on the LEDs and batteries you're using, but each one can cope with up to 100mA of current. Thinking about it I could go bigger actually - I'll have to have a shop around, see what I can find.
-- edit --
I have found a nice MOSFET that's a direct drop-in replacement for the tranny I was going to use - a couple of pence each more, but nothing to worry about - and they can handle 2.4A continuous, 5A pulse current. That's some pretty bright LEDs you could be running off that. Couple it with some big Li-Ion batteries (I hear you can get some cheap second hand ones from Boeing...), and you have a flood light for a muzzle flash
-- edit --
I have found a nice MOSFET that's a direct drop-in replacement for the tranny I was going to use - a couple of pence each more, but nothing to worry about - and they can handle 2.4A continuous, 5A pulse current. That's some pretty bright LEDs you could be running off that. Couple it with some big Li-Ion batteries (I hear you can get some cheap second hand ones from Boeing...), and you have a flood light for a muzzle flash
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