Advice for creating a latex(?) mask from a sculpted piece

[chewbaccadoll]

So, I promised to help my friend to make his costume, we're making him as the "vintage" Hamburglar from the old McDonaldland cast... you know, the creepy, old guy looking one.

Anyways, I sculpted a very crude sculpture from the nose down (trying to only make a half mask) out of regular air hardening clay. Used a cheap toy Police Riot Helmet cut in half to build on as I didn't have a mannequin head to use.

Here's where I'm at:

My question is, how can I inexpensively make a wearable mask from this after I finish smoothing, filling in cracks, etc.? I can't afford to make a silicone mold.

I was thinking of laying gauze plaster strips, kinda like paper mache, over it and then finishing it, hoping it would release off of the sculpt, but I'm not a seasoned sculptor or mask maker, so...

Would love for it to be a latex mask that I can paint, but is that possible?

Looking for any and all suggestions! Appreciate the help!

 

[JonKross]

haha, awesome idea. I made a mask(just to cover nose and eye area) once using plaster strips and found it somewhat heavy...
I've paper-mache a mannequin head to get the form that turned out really well, very light too! That's the only cheap way I can think of, covering your sculpture with a bit of vaseline and paper mache-ing it on top to make the same shape, then painting it.

 

[GeektressGalore]

HAHAHA .. Oh ... latex. This is the bane of my existence as far as makeup artistry is concerned. I like Jon's suggestion of the papier mache. With the shape you're going for, it's clear that you won't need it to function like an actual face, or I'd suggest going the latex route. In this case, however, it's best to put latex out of your mind entirely.

 

[TheNickFox]

If you just need something quick and dirty, you can just paint the latex over that shape. If you make it thick enough you should be able to paint it, peel it off, apply it to the face with spirit gum, and use it. It's not the most professional solution, but I've seen people do it before.

-Nick

 

[xdmray]

the best method is after the sculpt is complete, coat in in a clear coat (rattle can). this acts as your mold release.
then use hydrocal or ultracal (gypsum plasters) for your mold. you can use some plaster strips in the mold as well but i wouldnt do my first layer as you wont get the fine detail with just strips.
after demolding the ultracal from the clay sculpture, just paint in latex to the thickness you desire.

 

[chewbaccadoll]

the best method is after the sculpt is complete, coat in in a clear coat (rattle can). this acts as your mold release.
then use hydrocal or ultracal (gypsum plasters) for your mold. you can use some plaster strips in the mold as well but i wouldnt do my first layer as you wont get the fine detail with just strips.
after demolding the ultracal from the clay sculpture, just paint in latex to the thickness you desire.

Yeah, I've decided to do something similar to this.

I really appreciate all of the feedback, thanks guys!

-Kurt

 

[Amish Trooper]

I hope once this is done you will post completed pictures.

 

[chewbaccadoll]

I hope once this is done you will post completed pictures.

Oh, you know I will! I'll also be posting the "other" McDonaldland character costume I'm making as well (mine).

Since I used a "cheap" air hardening clay (can't turn back time now) it has started to crack and I'm worried about it falling apart before I can finish the detail.

Now even though I intend to finish the surface with some thin layers of Sculpey and whatnot, what would be the best thing I could apply to the clay sculpt now to seal it to keep it from being so brittle?

I should have known better than to use cheap clay, should've just started with Sculpey or a non-hardening premium oil based clay, but I was trying to keep cost down. Eh, live and learn. I really don't want to sculpt it again due to time constraints, so I'm looking for a spray, paint on, pour on, etc that will keep it together and solid so I can apply surface detail.

Not sure what's the best to use on clay. Was thinking Mod Podge since I have a ton, but if there's something better....

Suggestions?

 

[Darth Mule]

the best method is after the sculpt is complete, coat in in a clear coat (rattle can). this acts as your mold release.
then use hydrocal or ultracal (gypsum plasters) for your mold. you can use some plaster strips in the mold as well but i wouldnt do my first layer as you wont get the fine detail with just strips.
after demolding the ultracal from the clay sculpture, just paint in latex to the thickness you desire.

I'd second this suggestion. If you can close the ends of the mold so you can actually fill it up with liquid, it can make the latex easier. Fill it for an hour or two depending on thickness, then pour back into the container. The leftover in the mold will build up faster this way than with the paint in method. This obviously requires a higher quantity of latex.

Otherwise, I'd suggest stippling/painting in the first layer, then pouring some latex in and slushing it around so that it coats the inside of the mold well, then pour off the excess. This too builds up better than repeated painting.

I'd then lay in some cheesecloth for support. If you use the pour method, you can do this step after you pour the latex out, if using the brush/slush method, let it set and hour or two first. Simply lay in a layer of cheesecloth and press into the wet latex. Brush on another layer if needed. This will provide rigidity and support to your cast.

 

[chewbaccadoll]

I'd second this suggestion. If you can close the ends of the mold so you can actually fill it up with liquid, it can make the latex easier. Fill it for an hour or two depending on thickness, then pour back into the container. The leftover in the mold will build up faster this way than with the paint in method. This obviously requires a higher quantity of latex.

Otherwise, I'd suggest stippling/painting in the first layer, then pouring some latex in and slushing it around so that it coats the inside of the mold well, then pour off the excess. This too builds up better than repeated painting.

I'd then lay in some cheesecloth for support. If you use the pour method, you can do this step after you pour the latex out, if using the brush/slush method, let it set and hour or two first. Simply lay in a layer of cheesecloth and press into the wet latex. Brush on another layer if needed. This will provide rigidity and support to your cast.

Thanks for your insight!

I ordered 2 quarts of latex from Monster Makers, so it should be enough to fill, set and pour out remaining latex.

I didn't know about the cheesecloth though. Is this a necessary step? I plan on fill the nose and cheeks with foam or another substance so they don't collapse when wrapped around the face.

Or, just make the the nose and cheeks solid latex I suppose.

 

[xdmray]

the cheese cloth isnt necessary, but doesnt hurt.
making the nose and cheeks solid latex will have to cure for a long time.
i think your foam idea is better.
i mentioned painting it in because a two part mold seemed like more work than was necessary for a half mask type piece. i have done an eye mask with a one part mold and i just paint in the latex. it works fine but takes a while, do to letting the layers set inbetween.

 

[mdb]

A single surface mold is going to be best for this as you did not build the sculpt on a face cast and thus there would be no gap for the latex to fill. That is a method best used for silicon and foam latex anyway

My Asari Tentacles (see my avatar) are made by mixing acrylic paint and slip latex and painting and pouring into the mold. It's a far more complex piece but this simpler method works really well.

The biggest problem the OP is going to have is that the air drying clay will go hard and thus the plaster mold is also going to be rigid. No barrier in the world is going to make that easy to release the master from the mold with all those undercuts.

From experience with my Asari tentacles it really is a good idea to start over now before breaking your mold and/or master and having to redo it all again anyway. I had to resculpt my pieces six times due to constantly breaking my molds. That was also due to my lack of patience and a paritularly wet and rainy winter... but mainly lack of patience


You could also use caulking silicon to make a budget mold (first greasing your air clay with vaseline, let it cure and make a plasticine cast (heat up plasticine until it melts pour in leave it to set take out) and use that to make the plaster cast. I have a set of silicon tentacle molds so that should I break the current gypsum molds I can resculpt the whole thing in a few hours rather than the 30 or so I put into each.
Frock Chick
Way too much info but you can find my saga there and avoid much of what I went through

Oh yeah and I used latex to glue some polyester fibrefill into each tentacle to give it light and flexible support so foam should be good Just remember to trim it, I forgot and have a bit of a ridge in some photos from where the padding suddenly finished.

 

[Azurial]

i've been making masks out of latex for a while and the cheapest, fastest way to do it is to spray on some PAM, slap a layer of casting medium over (plaster, play-doh, ect), PAM that once dry and slosh some latex around. you then have a cast you can use multiple times.

 

[ManDrawsPicture]

I'd suggest you let this sculpt dry, lay a 1/4 inch thick layer on non-hardening clay over the entire surface, resculpt/refine, then apply plaster/gypsum on top of that for a (negative) absorption mold.

If you put plaster on the current incarnation of this sculpt (even if you seal or lube it) the undercuts are still way too deep and you'll never be able to pull this positive out of your mold. Always remember: Rigid sculpt, flexible mold . . . flexible sculpt, rigid mold.

I suppose you could also seal the current sculpt with Krylon Crystal Clear, lay down some silicon caulk and plaster bandages BUT you won't be able to use that for a latex slush mold . . . you'd have to brush in very thin coats of latex as silicon will ****** the latex absorption/drying process.

 

[chewbaccadoll]

I'd suggest you let this sculpt dry, lay a 1/4 inch thick layer on non-hardening clay over the entire surface, resculpt/refine, then apply plaster/gypsum on top of that for a (negative) absorption mold.

If you put plaster on the current incarnation of this sculpt (even if you seal or lube it) the undercuts are still way too deep and you'll never be able to pull this positive out of your mold. Always remember: Rigid sculpt, flexible mold . . . flexible sculpt, rigid mold.

I suppose you could also seal the current sculpt with Krylon Crystal Clear, lay down some silicon caulk and plaster bandages BUT you won't be able to use that for a latex slush mold . . . you'd have to brush in very thin coats of latex as silicon will ****** the latex absorption/drying process.

Yes, I intend on applying a top layer over the sculpt for the "detail" layer (about .25" thick) where I'll smooth it out, refine edges, maybe add some skin texture, etc. I was going to use Sculpey (my preference for sculpting with), but I see your point about released from the mold.

I suppose the best thing to use would be oil based non hardening clay.

Any suggestions on which clay to use for this step? I prefer to shop at Michaels or A.C. Moore, so anything they carry that you can recommend?


And btw, thanks to everyone for your input. It's immensely appreciated! I value your experience and wisdom!

-K

 

[Jessica]

wow this is most awesome. i learned a lot from the responses, too.

 

[ManDrawsPicture]

Sculpey would work just fine as it does not air harden.

Post some progress pics if you get the chance.

 

[daska skirata]

Hey there!

You've got a nice project out there!

The way I mold these things is just with bringing on plaster with thin layers untill it's thick enough. The first thing I always do is drying the clay. It's easier to take the plaster mold off. Using a release agent would be even better.

Then, you can fill it with latex.