Acrylic paints

[beachbum80]

Hope this doesn't seem like a stupid question, but other than the difference in brands, are all acrylic paints the same? For example, can acrylic paints that are used on canvases, be used on models or is there a specific kind of acrylics for models? Thanks

 

[ahoudini]

All are good for models. The heavier bodied ones may need to be thinned, even for brushing on, and airbrush medium (Liquitex or Golden) is much better for this than water or windshield washer fluid, although these both work!

 

[REL]

If you want to use acrylics not intended for an airbrush, thin them out then strain them through cheesecloth, otherwise they'll clog your tip almost instantly.

 

[beachbum80]

Forgot to mention, I'll be brush painting the models, not using an airbrush

 

[Sigma-LS]

Artist acrylics and fine miniature acrylics and such have finer ground pigment and more of it. This means they thin better and have better coverage (also why the previous post said to strain).

Most will thin with water and future or another medium (I've even seen people use stuff like windex). Some brands like Tamiya need alcohol instead of water.

Color itself also plays a roll because of the commonness of certain pigments. A dollar bottle of Apple Barrel Black is just as high quality as any fine brand because iron is so darn common and cheap. A good vibrant blue or yellow on the other hand is worth the extra cash.

Anyhow, when brush painting just remember the miniature modelers mantra "Thin your paints, lots of coats."

Forgot to add.

AppleBarrel:Cheap, good for basic colors like black and white so you can mix your own grays.
Ceramcoat:Similar to Apple Barrel but also has some good tans and earthy colors

Proper Tube acrylics: Very high artist quality. Needs lots of thinning

Coat D' Arms: Best metallics IMO. They used to make the Games Workshop paints up until a couple of years ago.

Reaper: Has some unique washes and mid hues you don't find premixed in a lot of lines. Their Buckskin is to die for.

P3: Good quality, I like their light reds.

Tamiya: I don't like dealing with "special needs" lines but their paint is top quality. Lots of folks swear by them.

Vallejo also usually gets a top recommendation but I haven't messed with them yet. That's the problem with getting a set of paints, you pick and choose select colors for projects. Honestly the stuff I go through the most is primer gray, black, white, gunmetal, and future. Takes a long while to chew through a whole bottle of color for me.

 

[beachbum80]

Thanks for the responses, as far as thinning goes, what consistency do you want?

 

[Sigma-LS]

About like whole milk and use more than just water to thin or it will bead up on you and not stick as well. You want it to spread out evenly and level. A big jug of Future is only about $6 and will last you a long time in that department.

Usually stuff straight from the store is about 2 to 5 times too thick.

 

[beachbum80]

What is future and where can I get it?

 

[Sigma-LS]

1. Industrial amounts of clear acrylic medium at cheap prices, you can also use it as a non-reactive gloss coat.
2. Walmart, grocery store whatever

Looks like this.

 

[ahoudini]

Future is acrylic floor finish and has become hard to find here in Virginia. Other water clear brands of acrylic floor finish should work but all will make the paint glossy. You will need a good dull finish as a final coat. I really like Testors Dull Cote lacquer in the little spray cans but others may prefer other brands.

 

[beachbum80]

So any acrylic floor finish can be used to thin the paint and also serve as a gloss finish?

 

[ahoudini]

Probably, though Future is the only one I have used.