A Museum Replica

MaulWalker

Sr Member
No, not Museum Replicas (the company that makes replica costumes from HP, Star Wars, etc.) In 2007, I saw a special exhibit at the Smithsonian's Museum of the American Indian and was struck by one of the dresses on display. The dress was a Blackfoot Indian woman's dress, circa 1910. This is a picture of the dress.
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The challenges of recreating costumes from movie is one thing, but recreating a historical garment is something entirely different. Perhaps foremost is what else would be worn with the garment?

There is not a lot of reference material on the Internet, so I used the web to find the titles of anthropoligical articles/book that may have information I could use. I then used the Internet to find university libraries that had those titles in their holdings. You should have seen the happy dance when I found books published in 1910. Luckily, the Blackfoot tribe were extensively studied and I was able to determine that the original owner was not well-to-do, so that would affect material choices.

The museum description did include the materials used, so I started there. Wool stroud is still available, but not with the same selvedge edge. The original dress used basket beads, which are no longer available in large quantities of the same color. So, I substituted tile beads. Finding brain-tanned leather was fairly easy, although it was expensive. And rose colored seed beads took almost a year to find. I finally found them at an Indian pow-wow.

I made my own patterns, based on documented styles and completely hand-sewed all the garments.

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The second post will include more details.
 
Underneath the red dress is a calico dress. These dresses were also worn for everyday. As such, I sun-faded the dress and dirtied it up.

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The red wool dress is made of wool stroud with black velveteen binding around the neck edge and back opening. The bodice is lined with muslin to support the weight of the beads and fringe. There are approximately 3K tile beads sewn on the bodice. The fringe is made of brain-tanned deerskin and is decorated with more tile beads, brass hawk bells, and brass thimbles. The dress weighs a little more than eight pounds.

This is a detail of the bodice and belt.
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The belt is four inch wide leather with about 550 brass tacks. Thank heavens for the Dremel. I used it to drill pilot holes, cut the sharp points off the tacks, and smooth down the cut edges. The tacks are held in place solely by friction.

The necklace is made of Crow beads and two cowrie shells, strung on sinew.
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No Blackfoot woman would appear in public with bare lower legs. On dress occassions, they would wear elaborately beaded leggings. I found a black and white picture of a set of leggings and a diagram of the colors used. I elected to copy those. The beads are used are size 11 seed beads and are attached using an applique stitch. To do this, the beads are strung on thread and then laid down on the fabric. Then using a needle and another thread, the line of beads are sewn down by stitching over the thread every two beads. Each legging weighs about one pound.

Here are pictures of me wearing the leggings, a detail of the design, and what the stitching looks like.

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The mocassins are made of brain-tanned deerskin with rawhide bottoms. The two are joined with sinew using overcast stitches about every 1/8" apart.

This entire project took 18 months of work.
 
You forgot to tell the part where this turned out completely awesome!!! I was so excited when I saw this one in Atlanta (I'm pretty sure I called you crazy, too, if only in my mind!) I love your research and your details on this!!!
 
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