3d prototyping, what is the best?

LeMarchand

Sr Member
I was wondering what the best method is for creating complex shapes. I know you have 3d printing, SLA, FDM etc. But what gives the best results?

I am looking for a smooth surface with minimal cleanup, so not the 'powdered sugar' surface type of stuff.

thanks,

Marc
 
I have used SLA for a number of projects including my Vader chest box and belt boxes that I am currently building.
Depending in the type of photopolymer that is used, it can be quite durable and smooth. Usually accurate to 0.005" and paints up nicely.

You usually have to have "bridge" structures to support free hanging or cantelivered geometry, but these usually clean up nicely. imo.

The "spray" type of RP uses inkjet technology to build up a 3D part file with thermo-set globs resulting in the rough appearance you mentioned. Imo, these tend to be less cost, but also less durable for props or costuming.
 
I have seen 3D prototyping pieces that were very smooth, htough I didn't know what the difference in the machines was.
Usually you can look at samples of the quality wherever you are going to have the work done.
 
what does it cost, and what does it take to get a 'prototype' printed out? For instance, If I do a 3d model of a helmet, can it be "printed" out to make a mold from?
 
Here's some research I did awhile back about 3-D printing that's within reach of private individuals. It certainly isn't the 'best' in the realm of rapid prototyping, (look at companies like Zcorp for that) but there's plenty of potential in both the projects below.

A university project at Cornell produced a 3D printer you assemble yourself, that runs just about 2500 dollars in parts. http://www.kobask8.com/servlet/Categories?category=Fab@Home sells the finished product, but the website below has all the information you need to build your own.

This particular model uses a mechanically-adjusted syringe. It can precisely control the flow of material, like silicone rubber. Moving in 3 axes, x y and z, it otherwise behaves like a print-head...traveling around to lay down the 'ink', except in this case the 'ink' is a material that gets built up layer by layer to form a 3D shape instead of a 2D image. It can also use a variety of materials, unlike some of the commercial products.

http://www.fabathome.org/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page is the project's wiki, where you can watch some videos, download plans for the fabber, and find links to the off-the-shelf items you'll need.

It's about the size of a microwave, but the actual build platform isn't quite that large. It would be useless for large items, but smaller ones? No problem.


There is a second, similar project aimed at creating a cheap Fused Deposition Modeler. 'Reprap' is supposed to cost around 400 dollars in parts, and heats plastic (and potentially other materials) before extruding it in layers to build up objects.

http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/WebHome

It's far less developed than the fab@home project, and requires more do-it-yourself building from the looks of things...including PIC programming, breadboarding, etc.
 
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Depending on what you want to create, I think CNC gives the best surface finish. If done right, you can often go to mold with little or no cleanup. If you go to 4 or 5 axis, there is little that can't be created on a CNC.
 
either way you go, CNC or rapid prototyping, it isn't gonna be cheap. I would hazard a guess and say, that depending on complexity, CNC will be cheaper than "3d printing"/rapid prototyping. I can't wait for the day when you can own your own SLA machine, I may never have to pick up a dremel again!
 
either way you go, CNC or rapid prototyping, it isn't gonna be cheap. I would hazard a guess and say, that depending on complexity, CNC will be cheaper than "3d printing"/rapid prototyping. I can't wait for the day when you can own your own SLA machine, I may never have to pick up a dremel again!
From my experience CNC is much more expensive than rapid prototyping.
You first have to create a cg model, then the model is processed in software to create a tool path. Send the file to machine, tweek the tool path for the machine. Set up the raw material for processing, figure out how are you going to hold the material in place for machining. This may have to be done several times. Even on a multi axis machine. Select the cutters for a rough tool path, and finish pass(which will have to be small for a good surface finish). After you get this done, run the part.
Rapid prototyping - create a cg model, modify the model for the machine. Import the model into the machine's software. Process the model, make sure the machine has enough media. Run the part. Fix the part, finish the part.
Plus the best part about it, it's faster than machining, and no endless setups.

How do I know all this? I own a Z-Corp 310 plus, and a machine shop.
 
From my experience CNC is much more expensive than rapid prototyping.
You first have to create a cg model, then the model is processed in software to create a tool path. Send the file to machine, tweek the tool path for the machine. Set up the raw material for processing, figure out how are you going to hold the material in place for machining. This may have to be done several times. Even on a multi axis machine. Select the cutters for a rough tool path, and finish pass(which will have to be small for a good surface finish). After you get this done, run the part.
Rapid prototyping - create a cg model, modify the model for the machine. Import the model into the machine's software. Process the model, make sure the machine has enough media. Run the part. Fix the part, finish the part.
Plus the best part about it, it's faster than machining, and no endless setups.

How do I know all this? I own a Z-Corp 310 plus, and a machine shop.

So, what is the finish like on the z-corp? Do the parts have smooth surfaces? How much does it roughly cost to have parts made that way.

thanks :)

marc
 
Maybe this is no help, but here are links to some of the things I have made with my MDX-15:

ROM Spaceknight
http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/57126319/
http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/57126474/
http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/57126577/

Ette (my own character)
http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/43046513/?qo=38&q=by:bohnded&qh=sort:time+-in:scraps

Endeavor (Micronaut's ship)
http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/44795367/?qo=17&q=by:bohnded&qh=sort:time+-in:scraps

Orion (New Gods)
http://www.deviantart.com/deviation/56543656/?qo=5&q=by:bohnded&qh=sort:time+-in:scraps

All the pieces, even the Endeavor. were comprised of multiple pieces, molded, then cast and put together.

This is subtractive rapid prototyping. It can achieve very smooth results. The texture on the ROM is a result of the source material it was cut from. None of the other pieces were made from that media.
 
I meant to ask -- are you doing your double sided pieces via the registration pins?
 
Great pieces, Juno and FC !

The knurling for the Rexim grips looks great, and I think that I have seen it on a finished one just recently. Upon seeing it I immediately wondered how the heck that was done on such a custom weapon :lol Should have seen this coming ;)

EDIT : Juno, by registration pins you mean including them around the original model to better align the negative molds for a master, don´t you ? Or are you referring to the model itself, and building it up like a model kit ?

How long is the turn around time, how much is the overall cost of such a project ?

Michael
 
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The working bed of the MDX-15 is approximately 4"x2"x6".

By registration pins, I mean using pins to mark the location of the model so that it can be flipped over and the other side milled. As the MDX is out-of-the-box a 3-axis mill, you have to do a little work to get the other side milled out.
 
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