OBI WAN KEN0B1
Sr Member
Looks great. I think i have made up my mind. Are those Destiny Guns ? They Look Great
3D Printer / Printing discussion
- Thread starter Mockle
- Start date
Looks great. I think i have made up my mind. Are those Destiny Guns ? They Look Great
OBI WAN KEN0B1
Sr Member
If i had the money that's the one. But my budget is limited for my first one. I have really enjoyed the videos i have seen of you on Tested. That's pretty cool are you going to do one on your Mini Nuke? And have you met Adam? He seams like he would be a cool guy to hang out with and drink a Beer. I have modeled a mini nuke as well but i didn't turn out as awesome as yours. Also i can't wait to print out your light saber (if i can find the files 
Peace OBI
Peace OBI
OBI WAN KEN0B1
Sr Member
Those prints look awesome do you know what smart lcd setup you added ? also is simplify 3d a free software or do you have to buy it ?
Simplify3d is expensive but worth it in my opinion.
Here is the LCD upgrade that I bought. It was a simple upgrade and works great, you do not even have to connect to your computer, just insert SD with gcode and let it rip.
http://www.reprapdiscount.com/electronics/19-smart-lcd-controller.html#
Here is the LCD upgrade that I bought. It was a simple upgrade and works great, you do not even have to connect to your computer, just insert SD with gcode and let it rip.
http://www.reprapdiscount.com/electronics/19-smart-lcd-controller.html#
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xl97
Master Member
what is everyones' thought on this printer:
CreatorBot 3D Pro Series II
http://www.3dprinterworks.net/
CreatorBot 3D Pro Series II
http://www.3dprinterworks.net/
Fetasigma1977
New Member
I run a davinci 1.0, it's not the worlds best printer but I can do some pretty nice work on it once it's dialed in. Pretty decent solution for the price and the build area size
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fetasigma1977
New Member
Simplify 3D is worth every penny no matter wich printer you use
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
oldthrower50
New Member
I suspect this thread is a little like going to a general car forum and posting "what's the best car?" I think the comment that helped me the most was the "it's still a tinkerer's tool, not an out of the box solution"
In the end, whether we admit it to ourselves or not, we all want the machine that we can push a button and out pops an exact copy of R2D2, or Fallout power armor, or Orcrist...or at least the exact parts we need.
Like a 1950s kid who gets a Lionel on an oval track and envisions a global transportation empire, I'm going to spend my money and believe that every project I print is magic
In the end, whether we admit it to ourselves or not, we all want the machine that we can push a button and out pops an exact copy of R2D2, or Fallout power armor, or Orcrist...or at least the exact parts we need.
Like a 1950s kid who gets a Lionel on an oval track and envisions a global transportation empire, I'm going to spend my money and believe that every project I print is magic
MatterMaker
Well-Known Member
I've been using a Makerbot Replicator 2 for a couple years. It's pretty good with PLA. Every printer will have it's issues though. After using one for a while, you'll begin to figure out it's quirks. I hear mixed things about the new Makerbots. I don't like the idea of a replaceable print head module. Apparently they fail regularly. (and aren't cheap to replace)
mm.
Valcrow
Active Member
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I have been looking into this as well. There is a wealth of online information on this one. Looks like a good PLA printer out of the box. With some work, it will be a decent ABS printer.
I spent some time researching this recently. Today, all 3d printers sub 10k, maybe sub 100k will be machines you need to tinker with and know inside and out to get to work perfectly. Objets are the only ones I've personally seen which are pretty much -push button - get print. And even those require careful maintanence.
I'll be honest, I've always had an aversion to FDM printers for the sheer amount of technical familiarity and even luck required to get a good print, and most of a time even the best FDM prints require extensive careful finishing to get a smooth part that looks like the digital file. And I mean dimensionally accurate and smooth, not a part that's been smothered in a thick layer of goo to hide the build lines.
After shapeways really boned me recently on bad print, I went looking into producing my own parts myself, and did this same search. Of course keep in mind I dismissed all FDM's, fairly or not, as I don't have the proclivity to spend an hour setting up a print to have it randomly fail and encase the build head in solid plastic while I'm doing something else.
Naturally I was looking for the best prints for the lowest price and settled on a relatively unknown DLP printer from mUVe3d: http://www.muve3d.net/press/product/muve-1-1-dlp-prebuilt/ If you build it yourself from their kit and shop carefully a complete setup can be had for about 1750. These are the prints that sold me on this machine:
Resin is about $60 a liter, which isn't cheap, but nowhere near what Objet resin costs. The build size, and resolution, is scalable based on projector resolution and distance from the build plate.
Of course the downsides are that the technical end is still pretty steep, and printed objects won't be as durable as an ABS part from an FDM. Dimensional perfection is questionable. But for the purposes of making organic masters for molding/casting, this is the best price/performance printer I could find.
For what it's worth, I've worked with an Objet for years, which produced great models, but the best prints I've ever seen came off a Projet DP3000, build lines barely discernable. Anything printed on one of those could go to mold with a mist of primer and barely any other finishing.
I'll be honest, I've always had an aversion to FDM printers for the sheer amount of technical familiarity and even luck required to get a good print, and most of a time even the best FDM prints require extensive careful finishing to get a smooth part that looks like the digital file. And I mean dimensionally accurate and smooth, not a part that's been smothered in a thick layer of goo to hide the build lines.
After shapeways really boned me recently on bad print, I went looking into producing my own parts myself, and did this same search. Of course keep in mind I dismissed all FDM's, fairly or not, as I don't have the proclivity to spend an hour setting up a print to have it randomly fail and encase the build head in solid plastic while I'm doing something else.
Naturally I was looking for the best prints for the lowest price and settled on a relatively unknown DLP printer from mUVe3d: http://www.muve3d.net/press/product/muve-1-1-dlp-prebuilt/ If you build it yourself from their kit and shop carefully a complete setup can be had for about 1750. These are the prints that sold me on this machine:
Resin is about $60 a liter, which isn't cheap, but nowhere near what Objet resin costs. The build size, and resolution, is scalable based on projector resolution and distance from the build plate.
Of course the downsides are that the technical end is still pretty steep, and printed objects won't be as durable as an ABS part from an FDM. Dimensional perfection is questionable. But for the purposes of making organic masters for molding/casting, this is the best price/performance printer I could find.
For what it's worth, I've worked with an Objet for years, which produced great models, but the best prints I've ever seen came off a Projet DP3000, build lines barely discernable. Anything printed on one of those could go to mold with a mist of primer and barely any other finishing.
Mockle
Sr Member
They are the exact same printer. So choose the logo you like more
Correct, did some research and spoke to the techs UPBOX and H800 are the same except for the front door on H800 unit when opened will not automatically pause the printer.
So will be getting the H800..
Thanks
Last edited by a moderator:
Valcrow
Active Member
If you're fearing tinkering FDM machines, building a DLP from a kit is many times worse IMO. While failures on FDM is well documented, DLP/SLA fails are much less so, but just just as prevalent, and there is less you can do to make it work if it does fail.
The majority of people talking about 3D printing online talks about issues because they're wanting to solve them. So there's a bit of a negative bias there. Those that are making stuff successfully post considerably less, especially those that use it for engineering and 'work' type scenarios.
It doesn't require 'luck' and it doesn't fail randomly (most of the time). It may appear to if you don't know what you're doing. But like every tool you need to learn how to use it and use it properly. When it's up and running It will generally treat you fine, if you design your parts well, they will come out successful 95% of the time. You can reliably predict where it can fail with a bit of experience and take steps to counter it. If you expect it to run like a 2D printer, you may be in for dissapointment.
Unlike an objet, neither DLP and FDM will be able to print any shape you throw at it. They all have their limitations. For example, a big flat bottom will surely cause failure in an SLA and tiny tall structures will likely fail in an FDM.
My one recommendation for a DLP machine if you have your heart set on it, to try the software first. This is a make or break point for how useful the machine will actually be. Formlabs has an amazing software suite. the rest I've seen are pretty dismal. If your software sucks, you will not want to use your printer.
Last thing to consider: Cleanup on DLP/SLA machines is mighty horrible. You will only ever want to do 1 cycle per day maximum because cleanup is just so crappy. whereas an FDM, you can do as many as it takes to fill the time. We plan our prints so that short prints happen in the day so we can set many, and then long ones over night. For SLA machines, it's once in the morning, cleanup at night and no more than that.
Lastly, FDM machines are good for some things, and SLA/DLP machines are good for a different set of things. Pick what's right for your task. If you're doing detailed masters, then I would tend to agree that SLA/DLP is a better option. But don't think of them as FDM vs SLA, they simply fill different roles.
Here is tiny hourglass I made on a formlabs yesterday for your comparison. It has liquid in it.
OBI WAN KEN0B1
Sr Member
QUOTE=Valcrow;3905414]If you're fearing tinkering FDM machines, building a DLP from a kit is many times worse IMO. While failures on FDM is well documented, DLP/SLA fails are much less so, but just just as prevalent, and there is less you can do to make it work if it does fail.
The majority of people talking about 3D printing online talks about issues because they're wanting to solve them. So there's a bit of a negative bias there. Those that are making stuff successfully post considerably less, especially those that use it for engineering and 'work' type scenarios.
It doesn't require 'luck' and it doesn't fail randomly (most of the time). It may appear to if you don't know what you're doing. But like every tool you need to learn how to use it and use it properly. When it's up and running It will generally treat you fine, if you design your parts well, they will come out successful 95% of the time. You can reliably predict where it can fail with a bit of experience and take steps to counter it. If you expect it to run like a 2D printer, you may be in for dissapointment.
Unlike an objet, neither DLP and FDM will be able to print any shape you throw at it. They all have their limitations. For example, a big flat bottom will surely cause failure in an SLA and tiny tall structures will likely fail in an FDM.
My one recommendation for a DLP machine if you have your heart set on it, to try the software first. This is a make or break point for how useful the machine will actually be. Formlabs has an amazing software suite. the rest I've seen are pretty dismal. If your software sucks, you will not want to use your printer.
Last thing to consider: Cleanup on DLP/SLA machines is mighty horrible. You will only ever want to do 1 cycle per day maximum because cleanup is just so crappy. whereas an FDM, you can do as many as it takes to fill the time. We plan our prints so that short prints happen in the day so we can set many, and then long ones over night. For SLA machines, it's once in the morning, cleanup at night and no more than that.
Lastly, FDM machines are good for some things, and SLA/DLP machines are good for a different set of things. Pick what's right for your task. If you're doing detailed masters, then I would tend to agree that SLA/DLP is a better option. But don't think of them as FDM vs SLA, they simply fill different roles.
Here is tiny hourglass I made on a formlabs yesterday for your comparison. It has liquid in it.
http://www.redicubricks.com/wp-cont...G_20160212_214703-e1455392525656-1024x576.jpg[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the input. That hour glass look pretty cool.
The majority of people talking about 3D printing online talks about issues because they're wanting to solve them. So there's a bit of a negative bias there. Those that are making stuff successfully post considerably less, especially those that use it for engineering and 'work' type scenarios.
It doesn't require 'luck' and it doesn't fail randomly (most of the time). It may appear to if you don't know what you're doing. But like every tool you need to learn how to use it and use it properly. When it's up and running It will generally treat you fine, if you design your parts well, they will come out successful 95% of the time. You can reliably predict where it can fail with a bit of experience and take steps to counter it. If you expect it to run like a 2D printer, you may be in for dissapointment.
Unlike an objet, neither DLP and FDM will be able to print any shape you throw at it. They all have their limitations. For example, a big flat bottom will surely cause failure in an SLA and tiny tall structures will likely fail in an FDM.
My one recommendation for a DLP machine if you have your heart set on it, to try the software first. This is a make or break point for how useful the machine will actually be. Formlabs has an amazing software suite. the rest I've seen are pretty dismal. If your software sucks, you will not want to use your printer.
Last thing to consider: Cleanup on DLP/SLA machines is mighty horrible. You will only ever want to do 1 cycle per day maximum because cleanup is just so crappy. whereas an FDM, you can do as many as it takes to fill the time. We plan our prints so that short prints happen in the day so we can set many, and then long ones over night. For SLA machines, it's once in the morning, cleanup at night and no more than that.
Lastly, FDM machines are good for some things, and SLA/DLP machines are good for a different set of things. Pick what's right for your task. If you're doing detailed masters, then I would tend to agree that SLA/DLP is a better option. But don't think of them as FDM vs SLA, they simply fill different roles.
Here is tiny hourglass I made on a formlabs yesterday for your comparison. It has liquid in it.
http://www.redicubricks.com/wp-cont...G_20160212_214703-e1455392525656-1024x576.jpg[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the input. That hour glass look pretty cool.
MatterMaker
Well-Known Member
I would totally agree with this, I found working with SLA, the cleanup is the worst and can't be underestimated! Having to use gloves, cleaning the print in alcohol, removing from the print bed covered in SLA goo, post curing and warping and general cleanup and maintenance of the printer. FDM is MUCH easier to start with! The only advantage of SLA being amazing surface detail when everything goes well.
mm
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