1ST Build after 30 years -- UPDATED PICS pg2!!

[Tatooine_Todd]

Hey all,
Just added pics of my first build after 30 years, let me know what you think.

I haven't built a model since I was a youngster, and then I rarely if ever painted them. It was more "get the decals on fast so I can play with it" mode.

I have decided to start doing some models as a hobby, but want to make them highly accurate. I have a basic question, do you paint all parts before you assemble, paint some parts before assemble, or paint after assembly?

I have bought sprew cutters, some good brushes, sand paper. Any other tools that I should have handy?

I will mainly be doing armor/military kits.

Thanks,
Todd

P.S. Any other hints would be welcome.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

<div class='quotetop'>(monster_collector @ Nov 4 2006, 02:07 PM) [snapback]1350521[/snapback]</div>

Hey all,
I haven't built a model since I was a youngster, and then I rarely if ever painted them. It was more "get the decals on fast so I can play with it" mode.

I have decided to start doing some models as a hobby, but want to make them highly accurate. I have a basic question, do you paint all parts before you assemble, paint some parts before assemble, or paint after assembly?

I have bought sprew cutters, some good brushes, sand paper. Any other tools that I should have handy?

I will mainly be doing armor/military kits.

Thanks,
Todd

P.S. Any other hints would be welcome.
[/b]

I would think it depending greatly on the kit. But the progress by progress painting of the model seems to be the best approach as some things will be mostly impossible to paint when the model is completely finished. Surely more experienced kit collectors can tell more.

Good luck. :thumbsup

 

[Boba Flint]

<div class='quotetop'></div>

do you paint all parts before you assemble, paint some parts before assemble, or paint after assembly?[/b]

Yes



Depends on the kit. I review the the instructions and the parts several times before I start to build and make that decision. Something might need to be painted before it is assembled sometimes not. It varies with each kit.

What kit are you thinking about building?

 

[Tatooine_Todd]

<div class='quotetop'>(Boba Flint @ Nov 4 2006, 01:43 PM) [snapback]1350535[/snapback]</div>

<div class='quotetop'>

do you paint all parts before you assemble, paint some parts before assemble, or paint after assembly?[/b]

Yes



Depends on the kit. I review the the instructions and the parts several times before I start to build and make that decision. Something might need to be painted before it is assembled sometimes not. It varies with each kit.

What kit are you thinking about building?
[/b][/quote]

Tamiya Tiger I Intial Production (Africa Corps) 1/48 kit 32529

[attachmentid=10871]

This is the kit as pictured on Tamiya's web-site.

 

[stonky]

If you're really serious, an good airbrush with a compressor is a must have IMHO.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Well... painting while assembling is a good way to do it... or paint some parts that will be difficult to reach once assembled, and then paint the rest once assembled. Airbrush is gold... as paint can build up too thick when applied with a brush, as make it look "modely", if you know what I mean.

Cheers.

 

[Tatooine_Todd]

Thanks guys for the replys. An air brush is definitely on the list. I will probably use spray can stuff at first, brush for the small detail things.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

<div class='quotetop'>(monster_collector @ Nov 4 2006, 06:04 PM) [snapback]1350616[/snapback]</div>

Thanks guys for the replys. An air brush is definitely on the list. I will probably use spray can stuff at first, brush for the small detail things.
[/b]

I would strongly advise against the use of spray cans, as they are better suited for large scale items and not small scale. Even a cheap testor's airbrush is better than spray cans...

 

[Boba Flint]

That kit you are wanting to build I would guess you could put most of it together then paint it. If the tow cables are seprate piece I would paint them seperatly and wait until you were almost finished with all the other painting then glue them on. Just as an example.

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

Todd, I'm actually in the same boat as you with regards to my past model experience.

By the time I was in my 20's and my skills were budding, I had a "real" hot rod and girls and beer...who needed models that weren't of the female persuasion :love

Now that I'm farrrrr past that stage and my prop hobby and skills have been honed over the past 7 years of re-entering a hobby I've decided to take on model building. I figured after I successfully built up and painted a movie accurate Boba ESB helmet I couldn't conquer anything :lol

That being said I'm currently working on a "Hasegawa" P-51D with a bare metal finish.....while the kit like all Japanese is exceptionally well molded, it needs the touch of a good model builder to make the fit/finish perfect.

THEN comes the painting decisions.....as someone said "yes" to all three of your questions....I've painted the cockpit and pilot first....then masked it off to prime,paint the fuselage. Next up some of the extras are painted prior to building, but the main thing is to always stay ahead of the next step.....basically see how it's ALL going to go together before the building even begins.

All in all it is still sooo hard to not let the inner kid out and slap it together to play with it,....:lol but the end result is worth it

Good luck :thumbsup

Steve

 

[BlindSquirrel]

My favorites:

Liquid cement and a old-school ruling pen. The pen allows for precise adhesive placement and the liquid cement runs down the seam (of the parts to be glued) and chemically WELDS them together. In a pinch you can also use Lacquer Thinner (from your local hardware store...cheaper by the gallon)

Aves Epoxy Putty. You'll probably have to order it online (hobby or taxidermy supply) but it is a non-toxic, water-smoothing 2-part epoxy putty that paints, sands, drills and makes just about anything you want with it.

Scotch Tear-By-Hand packing tape. Holds parts firmly but pulls off without leaving residue.

Have fun.

 

[Tatooine_Todd]

Thanks all. Very good suggestions. I'm going to start the Tiger today. I'll try to post some pics as I go along.

 

[stonky]

I think that armor is a good re-entry kit subject because it doesn't require a brand new car factory finish to look good. Good luck.

 

[OhioAstromech]

I recommend using 4 types of glue:

Testers Model Master Liquid Cement for general applications (mainly using it on the locator pins on body halves and attaching small parts.)

TENAX-7R for long seams. (After the Testors glue has dried you apply TENAX-7R using capillary action to run down the seams.)

SUPERJET CA Glue CA stands for Cyanoacrylate. (I use this for quickly attaching landing gear to Aircraft.)

Good Old ELMERS (Perfect for windshields and any clear parts.)

Some parts can be painted on the trees while others may need to be sub assembled.

Micro Mark has a HUGE selection of hobby tools.

Micro Mark

eHobbytools.com has a glass tube to apply the TENAX-7R.

Touch-N-Flow Applicator


Here is a 1/16 scale Tamiya Sherman Tank I built.

I used most of the adhesives and several tools from both Micro Mark and eHobbytools.

Scot

Thanks to Wacky Chimp for hosting the photo.

 

[Tatooine_Todd]

Well I am in the middle of my build and having a blast. The kit is going together easily. I began by painting the main pieces before assembly, would probably do it different next time. I find I'm painting the hull every time I move forward, as some pieces are a bit different in shade.

I'm posting some progress pics, please feel free to give me any pointers. The one side of the hull shows a paint flaw that has since been corrected.



Well I am in the middle of my build and having a blast. The kit is going together easily. I began by painting the main pieces before assembly, would probably do it different next time. I find I'm painting the hull every time I move forward, as some pieces are a bit different in shade.

I'm posting some progress pics, please feel free to give me any pointers. The one side of the hull shows a paint flaw that has since been corrected.

[attachmentid=11586]
The gap between the upper hull and the nose is going to need to be filled.

[attachmentid=11587]

[attachmentid=11588]
I have to handle the seams in the air filters as shown above.

[attachmentid=11589]

There is obviously no weathering yet, that will be coming at the end.

 

[mjhenks]

Brings back memories of 20 years ago for me. My best friend and I must have made every Tamiya WWII model they made. Nevermind the lack of our quality, we just had fun...

Someday i hope to re-kindle that fire and show my son the same.

Looks good. Keep the pictures coming.

 

[Gigatron]

Hey MC, looking good so far.

I used to do model after model when I was younger. I think the last one I did was when I was about 14 or so (that was about 18 yrs ago - yikes, I'm getting old). It was a Revell P-61 Black Widow with D-day invasion stripes. I did a ground diorama, had one guy underneath working on hydraulics and another pulling the radome for repair work. I believe it's still at my parents house, in my old closet. I'll have to post pics of that one these days.

Anyway (sorry for the sidetrack there), if I can offer a few suggestions, first is to get as much refernce material as possible. Find pics online, or go to the local library and xerox pics of specific tanks or buy reference books that specialize in that particular armor. This will allow you to see and understand how the vehicles were assembled, where weld lines would occur, where there would be the most wear and tear and how they were modified by specific tanker crews or battalions. Second, you should find a specific tank and copy all of it's peculiarities. So say, for instance, you find a lot of reference for tank #405. Copy it exactly into your model. If they had the tools in a place that was different than the original placement, copy it. If they did any particular mods, copy them. Tank crews made these changes for a reason. It's the small things that make a difference and add a depth of realism in a small scale.

One other thing I would suggest, if you're serious, get a subscription to Fine Scale Modeler. I haven't modeled in almost 20 yrs and I still read evry issue cover to cover. And they routinely do large articles on armor, how to paint or modify existing kits so they look like the real deal. They also offer tips on the basics of assembly with WIP pics to show what they're talking about - great magazine.

Most importantly though - have fun; it is a hobby afterall.

-Fred

 

[chris08234]

Looking good. :thumbsup Very interesting thread too.

Its been probably 20 years since I've tackled a model myself. Sometimes the kits will give great suggestions on how to "weather" your work. I learned a lot from a Panzer I had built. I doubt it is around, but if I can find the info on weathering I will share it.

And be sure to as questions here. These guys are some of the best.

 

[Boba Frett]

It has been 12 years at least since I have touched a kit, this inspires me to hit the hobby shop.

Nice work MC :thumbsup

 

[Boba Flint]

Thats coming along nicely. What were you worried about again?