Rogue One - Jyn Erso BlasTech A180 Blaster Pistol

Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

I missed some parts of this thread, but based on what I am reading. We are agreed that the core weapon is most likely the WE P08 6" in black with the rear sight removed. With the shroud assembly attached to the frame so as to leave the receiver and toggle free to complete their actions.
Finally, we are still looking for better shots of the hero weapon to confirm the details of the shroud and any other enhancements. Am I missing anything?

http://www.weairsoft.com/guns/gas-blowback-guns/pistols/we-p08-series/we-p002-p08-m-6-black.html
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

I am sorry if this is long and boring. This may be more than anyone wants but I would first like to calibrate our terminology. Then we can understand what moves, what doesn’t and where we need to be concerned about providing clearance for the movement.

First I am sorry I did not include some of my assumptions about the shroud in earlier discussions. One reason I was so interested in what I have been calling the “rail system” was to understand the attachment points for the shroud as it had to be attached to the weapon’s frame. Since the side brackets already were attached to the frame I was interested in how they might also integrate with the shroud. I think we now see from the toy illustrations the bracket is one piece which wraps over the top and it is also either a part of, or attaches to, the shroud.

Here are some terms and some mechanics. The barrel is attached at the rear to the barrel extension, which is also called the receiver in Luger terms. The receiver is cylindrical at the front where the barrel screws in but behind that point the receiver has parallel left and right “walls” but no top, bottom or rear. Between the walls of the receiver there are a number of parts the most important being the firing pin at the rear and the breechblock at the front. Overtop the firing pin are several parts and linkages which are attached to the breechblock at the front and the frame at the rear. I will lump these together as the toggle.

The frame is the stationary part of the weapon which some here have called the lower receiver. Lower receiver is a term used with the AR-15 family. The lower receiver there and the frame here, holds the trigger assembly, magazine, handgrip, etc. so the term is probably well understood by many people. When a cartridge (or airsoft pellet) is fired, escaping gases first blow back the breechblock. The block stays completely inside the receiver so no additional clearance above the receiver is required for the breechblock movement. However as the breechblock moves rearward the linkages drive the toggle rearward as well. The center toggle link and the rear toggle link act as a hinge and at the point of connection these two links hinge upward giving the traditional blow-back look provided in the earlier .gif.

The rear toggle is also connected to the frame. Since the rear of the toggle is fixed, the amount of rearward movement of everything is restricted. Partway through the rearward movement of the breechblock and toggle, the barrel and barrel extension (receiver) also move rearward, but not as much, and like the breechblock only in a linear fashion. Again no additional top clearance is required for the barrel or barrel extension. (The purpose of this movement is to eject the spent casing and prepare to receive a new cartridge). A the end of the travel, springs drive all of the same parts forward again, stripping a new cartridge from the magazine, pushing it into the chamber, setting the firing pin, locking the breechblock and all is prepared to fire another round.

Now that we know what moves, we can look at the required clearances.

The highest point of the barrel/barrel extension (disregarding the front sight) is where the receiver meets the barrel; this point is also the most forward part of the frame. This is also the point where the bottom half of the shroud is cut away. The width of the frame at this point is 1.125” which is one of the points of confirmation I used after calculating the shroud diameter based on other reference points. Anything smaller than 1.125” and the inside walls of the tube would rub against the sides of the barrel/barrel extension. Even with the outside diameter as 1.125, the walls must be thin.

The highest point of the breechblock is the next critical point. At the rear, the block curves upward and rises to a height of a little more than 4 mm above the receiver. I will use 5 mm as a margin of error. This point is at the rear of the trigger side plate when the breechblock is all the way forward and weapon is ready to fire. The distance from the front of the frame to this high point is 50 mm. However because of the breechblock’s sits inside the receiver if top clearance is provided for the receiver, for the first 40 mm of this distance the breechblock will also have clearance. It is only the final 10 mm where additional clearance would be specifically needed for the breechblock. Once this 5 mm clearance is provided this height would be sufficient for the next 33 mm of “at rest” clearance as well. (However once movement starts and the toggle starts to break upward the clearance issues would become more complex but I believe we can avoid those issues here.) It is only when we reach the broad lugs at the hinge point of the toggle where even more clearance would be required.

However I believe the first 40 mm which provides clearance for the both receiver and the front of the breechblock is all we need to use and be concerned about. In my earlier diagram I have the total length of the shroud as 155 mm and had it end at the front edge of the trigger side plate. If this is the point where the bracket wrap-over begins, the width of this could be 15-16 mm and still not interfere with any of the moving parts. I also have about 15 mm of shroud behind my grooved section, so the wrap-over potentially could be as wide as 30 mm and not require any more clearance than what my shroud design provides.

I will rework my diagrams based on the newest information and provide them for comment. In the meantime I hope more discussion ensues as the more inputs and observations the better the final product will be for all.
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

HI all, another hour or two on the gun after some more client stuff. Here are a couple of images of what im cobbling together on this one. All these parts except the gun are trial throwaway parts for testing clearance etc.
I've used a 30mm od stainless tube for this as the wall thickness and internal diameter seem about right. I've shaved the thickness of the walls down a little for some clearance on the slide and removed the square section from the top front of the rear siding mechanism (sorry but my gun terminology is a little crappy).
The slide is completely free to move inside the added barrel now.
The problem, and solution which is eluding me at the moment is attaching the lower ring support to the receiver front, as there is minimal material to get a decent purchase on. I am thinking of removing the barrel off the gun to only keep the rear slide, which may offer up an internal attachment area, but this will make it a non firing (but still fire without bb's) replica. However, I would like to keep the firing action with bb's.
Anyhow that's all for now, cheers for al the other info posted, we will crack this one no doubt.
IM off to remove the barrel and see what becomes visible for mounting without interfering with the action.
1.jpgl3.jpg
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

I'd say you're on the right track!

I'd also say there's no reason they'd necessarily need the actual Luger barrel as long as the action still cycles.

It's simple enough to rig the magazine to allow the gun to operate without any ammunition, which is I'm sure what they did.

Keep it up, guys!
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

Noticed that there's a fin or ridge underneath the barrel of the blaster. Closest section to the trigger seems to be open cut.
Also, it seems like I can find people drafting the barrel at about 2 grips length, but I'd say the barrel is about 2-1/2 grips long. What do you think? Does anyone have an accurate length for Jyn's blaster?


Jyn.jpgJynCU.jpgJyn2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

I think Flyscriber is on the right track. I found some more close ups of the toy that might help.Screen Shot 2016-09-05 at 9.09.13 PM.pngScreen Shot 2016-09-05 at 9.10.46 PM.pngScreen Shot 2016-09-05 at 9.13.46 PM.png
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

Another thing to consider is they might choose NOT to show the action cycling as it is a blaster and not a "slugthrower" They might take it out in post production. I know The Mauser slide cycles when it fires but has anyone seen it on screen when Han fires his DL-44?
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

I've been thinking about the lower rail support for the ring, and this is how I've seen it so far. I think there is square detailing and round bar making the lower support, heres how my twisted eyes see the thing so far. Just a quick sketch
rail support 1.jpg
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

I got around to disassembling my WE P08 to continue my diagrams and it answered some questions about why some design decisions were made on Jyn's weapon. The safety had to be removed as its operation would interfere with the new left side plate. Also the left side frame rail is "hollow" (there is a slot that runs through it from top to bottom) to allow the safety to function which is why there are only two machine screws on that side. The middle screw would have very little metal there to gain purchase. The LEFT side surface is a single thickness and a level surface so those screws can be placed on the centerline. Also, other than the area which is slotted the frame is approximately 6 mm thick so drilling and tapping holes will be easier than the right side,

On the right side plate I have always thought the photos show the three screws were low, meaning below the centerline of the plate. This also makes sense as the left hand rail is bi-level, thicker on the top than on the bottom, meaning the side plate must be thinner on the top and thicker on the bottom to mate together well. So there is more plate thickness on the lower side and you do not have to try to drill and tap a bi-level frame surface. However the frame thickness on this lower section is only 2 mm. The top section is 3 mm. This means ideally the top section of the side plate should be 1 mm thinner than the bottom section. So this leads me to a question, if the screw holes are off the centerline are they high or are they low? Or do we avoid the whole discussion and epoxy them on?

I will try to include all of this in my diagram but I thought this might generate some discussion and ideas prior to me completing that task.
 
Last edited:
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

I wouldn't epoxy anything on this blaster if its going to fire. The side with the off centreline holes is definitely to avoid ingress into the slide mechanism. I would go low on these as the higher, thicker rail portion is hiding an internal groove for the slide.
I think with some careful machining it should be possible to attach to top support on the grooved side with location pins, rather than set screws.
If the assembly for holding the barrel shroud is strong, I think the recess can be used to advantage by making a protrusion on the inside edge of the barrel support which engages (fits/ clips tightly) in the groove and is held tight by the two screws on the opposite side of the gun. This means the recess on the gun is actually controlling the height above the sliding barrel assembly, has a large length (front to rear) which will remove a lot of strain from the two screws on the left side of the bracket, and really help support the weight of the barrel shroud keeping it in line.
I think if this is possible then the two screws could be in any position as they would be cosmetic in nature.
Hope all this makes sense. I'm confused too !!! ;-)
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

Using one of the “Beach” photos, I have tried to fit the image to a functional representative of the barrel shroud. I have used a WE P08 Naval Model as the reference.

Based on the best images available I believe the new right side plate which is clearly visible in the holster wraps over the top of the breechblock and becomes the left side plate which is seen (indistinctly) in some illustrations and photos. On the right hand side the frame rail is bi-level. There also appears to be a new element which fills the gap between the bottom of the frame rail and the grip. The rear of this gap is a rounded corner, but the filler appears semicircular which still leaves a small gap at the trailing edge of the grip. This filler levels the surface of the frame and provides the shroud bracket with a flat surface for attachment.

On the left hand side the frame is already a flat surface with the exception of the leading edge of the Trigger Side Plate. The bracket is notched to fit around this protruding face.
The bracket must rise higher than the breechblock which means it must also rise higher than the trailing edge of the shroud. If the shroud is also notched around the leading edge of the Trigger Side Plate, the bracket can overlap the shroud by approximately 15 mm. and still not interfere with the cycling of the weapon. I believe this provides a major support element for attaching the shroud to the weapon.

View attachment P08 Shroud Bracket.pdf
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

This new poster makes the bracket look very angular with a flat top surface. Also some better detail of screw heads or knobs on the left hand side. This is in addition to the two screw heads on the rear portion of the left hand side.
 
Re: Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas

After this last set of images, (the bust) I think I have put together something very close. I want an opinion from the others, if I made a casting of the front barrel cover, would it fit all the WE Po8 Guns? I used the Dennix as my model. Obviously I may have to adjust things, and I have yet to put the allen head screws in, but I did my size renders based on the shots of her running in the trailer. Comments and critiques welcome.
30029473555_90afcc2e91_k.jpg
Jyn Erso Pistol 2 by Mal Keller, on Flickr
30029473355_08db4129ec_k.jpg
Jyn Erso Pistol 1 by Mal Keller, on Flickr
 

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top