Luke ESB Saber - newly acquired part

thd9791

thd9791

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I'll let the photo speak for itself :)
 

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Very nice indeed ...

I just love vintage found parts ;) Perhaps you could always add some extra solder to make additional silver fingers to complete 13 in total on one of these boards?

Chaim
 
I also just realized, minus the fat silver leads, there are two groups of 14 on each board. (forgiving the gold square) You could easily get four boards out of these things with room to spare
 
Yeah ... hence my suggestion ... you just need 13 gold fingers not 14 ... perhaps use special heat resistant tape to avoid spilling of solder? And the thicker silver could always be scrapped away? Just to bad most silver fingers are not nicely centered though.

Chaim
 
Here's my card in a romans clamp and a pristine graflex! - couldn't close the graflex flash's clamp and not sure why because I thought the Roman's was looser..
You can see my blast-tech bubble card off to the side (that thing is so skinny!!!) **and I know it's backwards! I have yet to unscrew the screw and take off the too-high grips to re-do the thing. I'm waiting until I get better ANH Grips...but the ESB proj. comes first!**

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I'm curious how do you guys go about cutting down the circuit board strip, just been doing this for my Vader ESB with the circuit that is under the bubble strip and it was agonizing to cut and took an age to file. I was really worried about the board breaking?
 
I talked to someone at ..mouser or Fry electronics...wait! No it was Vector and he explained that the material is a fiberglass epoxy. My old boss from school coached me in getting as clean edge as I can - Make a jig or somehow get it squared off with a straight edge (tape where you're cutting as it minimizes micro-fractures) and use a utility blade to score it 25, 50 or 70 times until you're 2/3 of the way through. I then stick it, taped, in a heavy metal vice with the larger side sticking out, and the cut lined up with the vice's teeth. I use the vice as leverage and quickly push it back and forth to finish the break. If you go slow you may be met with whiteness near the cut...the outer layers of the board are tougher than the inside and you want to break the whole thing at once. I then use a sanding block (I have a metal one with a handle) and lightly take the edges down until it fits. Dremel sanding drums work well too, but take a very delicate hand.

You can also use a razor saw I've heard - but never tried. Also - some graflex clamp edges are bent inwards or something...I have a vintage clamp that wont take a certain thickness card

Oh and if I need to eliminate a skinny section? Score it and use scissors haha

Am I helping? lol
 
Last edited:
^ Like any regular manual or tutorial ... might I suggest adding pictures to aid in understanding ... what the heck you're talking about ... lol ;)

Chaim
 
thd9791 said:
I talked to someone at ..mouser or Fry electronics...wait! No it was Vector and he explained that the material is a fiberglass epoxy. My old boss from school coached me in getting as clean edge as I can - Make a jig or somehow get it squared off with a straight edge (tape where you're cutting as it minimizes micro-fractures) and use a utility blade to score it 25, 50 or 70 times until you're 2/3 of the way through. I then stick it, taped, in a heavy metal vice with the larger side sticking out, and the cut lined up with the vice's teeth. I use the vice as leverage and quickly push it back and forth to finish the break. If you go slow you may be met with whiteness near the cut...the outer layers of the board are tougher than the inside and you want to break the whole thing at once. I then use a sanding block (I have a metal one with a handle) and lightly take the edges down until it fits. Dremel sanding drums work well too, but take a very delicate hand.

You can also use a razor saw I've heard - but never tried. Also - some graflex clamp edges are bent inwards or something...I have a vintage clamp that wont take a certain thickness card

Oh and if I need to eliminate a skinny section? Score it and use scissors haha

Am I helping? lol
Click to expand...
So quick and easy solution then :)
 
thd9791 said:
I talked to someone at ..mouser or Fry electronics...wait! No it was Vector and he explained that the material is a fiberglass epoxy. My old boss from school coached me in getting as clean edge as I can - Make a jig or somehow get it squared off with a straight edge (tape where you're cutting as it minimizes micro-fractures) and use a utility blade to score it 25, 50 or 70 times until you're 2/3 of the way through. I then stick it, taped, in a heavy metal vice with the larger side sticking out, and the cut lined up with the vice's teeth. I use the vice as leverage and quickly push it back and forth to finish the break. If you go slow you may be met with whiteness near the cut...the outer layers of the board are tougher than the inside and you want to break the whole thing at once. I then use a sanding block (I have a metal one with a handle) and lightly take the edges down until it fits. Dremel sanding drums work well too, but take a very delicate hand.

You can also use a razor saw I've heard - but never tried. Also - some graflex clamp edges are bent inwards or something...I have a vintage clamp that wont take a certain thickness card

Oh and if I need to eliminate a skinny section? Score it and use scissors haha

Am I helping? lol
Click to expand...
I just stuck some Tamiya tape where i wanted the cut, then Dermeled the sucker........job done!

Patience aint my strong suit....

Rich
 
Yeah . . . try look for thin shiny metal reflective mirror foil by the name of d-c-fix in any Art Supply store, . . . personally I don't like the whole idea for the G R A F L E X midband tape :wacko

Chaim
 
So it turns out one of those boards doesn't work for this prop - and while I was dicking around trying to figure out how to add thin silver fingers and not mess it up, I realized that there was a board I wanted that got lost in communication (very bad business man, confused the hell out of me so I just took whatever he gave me) and I noticed the guy still had boards for sale. I asked him if this certain board was still around - I don't need the one I have left and he could get some $ for it. I offered a trade basically, to correct the sale. His only response was "pay me" over and over so I kept this one (I'll decide what to do with it) and I got another smaller piece. Ironically, it might have a better finger pattern than the one above, we'll see when it comes Screen shot 2014-08-01 at 11.54.56 AM.png
 
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