Randy Cooper 37.5" Star Destroyer

I think if you dome the ends it will end up making the lights look a little too big, maybe if I had used smaller fibre optics that could of worked, but it is hard enough drilling 0.5mm holes through resin.
Good idea though.

For the stand, I got the idea from here. I like the idea of not having something directly under the model holding it up. also wanted it to be interchangeable.

I thought the same thing for doming the ends. Great idea, but I'm afraid that it will make the lights look too big. I've been searching for different types of cutters that may do the job. Maybe a micro pincer if they make one or something that fits directly over the fiber and with a twist cuts it off. Hopefully someone who knows of something like this may chime in.
 
Laid the fibre optics for the bottom hull, just got a few things left and the bottom hull will be complete. I am going to add a dimmer switch to the lights, I think they're to bright, seen some on ebay with a remote control, not sure what to do, if I should include the engines on the dimmer or not.


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I thought the same thing for doming the ends. Great idea, but I'm afraid that it will make the lights look too big. I've been searching for different types of cutters that may do the job. Maybe a micro pincer if they make one or something that fits directly over the fiber and with a twist cuts it off. Hopefully someone who knows of something like this may chime in.


I have ended up just using my hobby knife with a really sharp blade.

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Very nice work,I got mine a few weeks ago from Rany it is being built for me with Fiber Optics lighting by a very good friend of mine,after it is done he be doing the Classic Battlestar Galactica that mslz22 is selling here on RPF..
 
The main engine LEDs look like Seoul Semiconductor W42182-U star board LED modules. These have a thermal resistance of 8.5 degrees C per Watt, so for 3 Watt operation (about 900mA of forward current), you would expect a temperature rise above ambient of about 25 degrees C. If your room temperature is 72 degrees F, these assemblies will heat to 117 degrees F. They will do better if they are heat-sinked to increase the surface area of heat dissipation. And that's just for 1.
 
Have been setting up the wiring for the inside, nearly done just waiting on a few items to arrive in the mail. While waiting gotta keep drilling holes for the main structure.

Also have had no heat issue's from the Star LED's.


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Love the lighting set up! This is what I need to learn how to do for mine.:(


Kinda winged it as I've went, had a rough idea in my head of what I wanted but it always changed.

I have installed a dimmer switch for the fibre optics in the trenches cause I thought they were just too bright and waiting on a remote on/off switch to arrive. Have remade the turbolasers as well.


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Where did you get the light bulb strips at? And what did you use to connect the fiber optics with? Looks like some kind of tube!!!
 
Where did you get the light bulb strips at? And what did you use to connect the fiber optics with? Looks like some kind of tube!!!


Haven't used any LED strip's, But if you mean about the hanger bay I wired up my LEDs in parallel and to connect the fibre optics, just used styrene tube (the 5mm led fits nicely into the smaller tube) with the fibre optics glued with white glue.



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Still drilling holes.... Also been working on the stand, got the frame all welded up, just need to run my wiring through the stand so that I can fix some van sliding door switches, fix the board to the frame, glue the mirror down and stick down the Imperial Insignia and finish off with a aluminium frame.

Got some collets for my Dremmel so hopefully wont be drilling holes for too much longer.


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Finished work on the bottom hull and nearly the stand, just have to figure a way to attached the other part of the switch to the stand. Have also wired the remote control for on/off.


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GREAT GREAT job :thumbsup

I have the same kit in my boxes, your project makes me want to realize as soon as possible
 
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