Studio Scale Landspeeder project

AKKURIT!


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The engine pod? It will be opened up.

The render will have the following added before we proceed:
Break up engine for the individual parts
Cockpit bubble
Rear picture frames and greeblies
Dashboard greeblies and monitors
Seat cushions and neck rest
Joystick
Top half greeblie inserts

We plan to offer laser cut ribbing inside the engine cowling and the side ribs, also:
Engine screens that are etched from brass

The "trunk" area has been made such that a 1/16 acrylic "lid" can be placed. - Lasercut!
Some areas, particularly in the cockpit, still need to be smoothed out (fillets, probably will be done by hand)

The coolest part? My 3d wizard™ said:

A 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum tube can fit right down the middle for a main spine of an armature, with plastic ribs (3 should do nicely).

Boom! Yummy!
 
Jason,

Exactly~ engine pod :)
I didn't recall the exact part name.

On the other hand, can you check my PM regarding the decal?

Eric.


The engine pod? It will be opened up.

The render will have the following added before we proceed:
Break up engine for the individual parts
Cockpit bubble
Rear picture frames and greeblies
Dashboard greeblies and monitors
Seat cushions and neck rest
Joystick
Top half greeblie inserts

We plan to offer laser cut ribbing inside the engine cowling and the side ribs, also:
Engine screens that are etched from brass

The "trunk" area has been made such that a 1/16 acrylic "lid" can be placed. - Lasercut!
Some areas, particularly in the cockpit, still need to be smoothed out (fillets, probably will be done by hand)

The coolest part? My 3d wizard™ said:

A 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum tube can fit right down the middle for a main spine of an armature, with plastic ribs (3 should do nicely).

Boom! Yummy!
 
The 3D artist who helped on this deserves the RPFer of the YEAR award.

• The vents on the engine shells are open.
• He's worked out the shapes of all the brass mesh required. He's also done the brass mesh as well, to be photoetched.
• I agree with him and think the IG88 head should he cast with a hollow center, like a straight tube, to minimize the weight. Something like a styrene tube imbedded into it while casting. That thing is nearly 6" long...
• The rings in the open engine are 1/16" thick - perfect for laser cutting.
• There are grooves in the engine shells for aligning the ribs.
• Every part of the open engine fits together for perfect alignment and will hold the brass meshes in place with or without glue
• Alignment holes are built right into the middle pylon, for placement on the top half of the body and the bottom half of the upper engine, with 1/8 brass tube if you want. He thinks who ever casts these things could build the brass right into the cast.
• He still has to add the little notches for the 3/4" tube and 1/8" ribs.
• Aside from that, it's all the little add-ons that are left. There are still 2 add-ons to go on the IG88 head, which will be part of the group still to do.

pic-10.jpg

pic-11.jpg

pic-12.jpg

pic-13.jpg

pic-14.jpg
 
Every now and then a post gives me butterflies in my stomach, this was one of them......



The 3D artist who helped on this deserves the RPFer of the YEAR award.

• The vents on the engine shells are open.
• He's worked out the shapes of all the brass mesh required. He's also done the brass mesh as well, to be photoetched.
• I agree with him and think the IG88 head should he cast with a hollow center, like a straight tube, to minimize the weight. Something like a styrene tube imbedded into it while casting. That thing is nearly 6" long...
• The rings in the open engine are 1/16" thick - perfect for laser cutting.
• There are grooves in the engine shells for aligning the ribs.
• Every part of the open engine fits together for perfect alignment and will hold the brass meshes in place with or without glue
• Alignment holes are built right into the middle pylon, for placement on the top half of the body and the bottom half of the upper engine, with 1/8 brass tube if you want. He thinks who ever casts these things could build the brass right into the cast.
• He still has to add the little notches for the 3/4" tube and 1/8" ribs.
• Aside from that, it's all the little add-ons that are left. There are still 2 add-ons to go on the IG88 head, which will be part of the group still to do.

pic-10.jpg

pic-11.jpg

pic-12.jpg

pic-13.jpg

pic-14.jpg
 
Beautifuuuulllllll, a kit to die for, I can hear that speeder whine down my hall right now:lol
Looks perfect in all profiles, woohoo!.

Stu
 
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