My Studio Scale TIE X-1 Advanced

swgeek

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm finally getting around to starting my TIE Advanced thread.
As with all of my Studio Scale builds, I want to thank everyone who has done the hard work before me to ID the kits and share the information here. I also want to thank those individuals who have helped me directly to find those really hard to find ID's and kits. Thank you!
On with the build.
The first part I started with on this build that wasn't from my TIE Fighter project, was the wings.
I did a lot of work on the computer trying to figure out the dimensions of everything and laser cut the acrylic for the wings. I couldn't find any acrylic that wasn't metric, no matter what the acrylic shop said. After cutting and gluing the wing parts together I compensated for the incorrect acrylic thickness with .015 and .02 sheet styrene.
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Next was cutting up TIE wing stars for the interior central detail piece and exterior and interior vertical ribs. After that I glued on the Panther G parts and sheet styrene.

I could never find the correct light diffusion for the solar panels, so I modeled them in Rhino and printed them. I printed one master big enough for the largest of the solar panels (most of the panels are different sizes from inside to outside and from one wing to the other.) I then molded the master and cast all the solar panels, trimming each one to the correct size.

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And cat for scale.
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Next was the pylons (or what I call pylons). Again, I modeled these in Rhino and laser cut the parts out of .03" styrene. As with most of my builds, it took me three tries to get them (what I hope is) right.

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This is where it stands now. Most of the parts are just on temporarily.

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Sharper than this and you'll die:eek::eek::cool::cool:(y)(y):notworthy::notworthy: Those wafers panels are great. Lots of the nuke bombs from 2001 have those aplenty. Always difficult to get those :(
 
And I did not know you could laser-cut styrene -- was always told it produced cyanide and was lethal
You're confusing it with other materials - laser cutting ABS produces hydrogen cyanide (among other things) and laser cutting PVC produces chlorine gas, which is not only bad for you, but it's also bad for the laser cutter.

A list of materials that don't do well in laser cutters:

9 Types of Bad Materials for Laser Cutting
 
You're confusing it with other materials - laser cutting ABS produces hydrogen cyanide (among other things) and laser cutting PVC produces chlorine gas, which is not only bad for you, but it's also bad for the laser cutter.

A list of materials that don't do well in laser cutters:

9 Types of Bad Materials for Laser Cutting
That's good to know -- I thought ABS and styrene were synonyms:

From the article you sent a link to:
"ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) does not volatilize under laser cutting but tends to melt and burn. Cut edges are melted and fused. ABS thermal/oxidative decay products contain a wide range of toxins, including: cyanide, methyl styrene, phenol, phenyl cyclohexane, and benzene derivatives. ABS is also generally considered to be a fire risk because the lack of removal of material by char/volatility leads to considerable local heating and ignition."
 
WOW!!!

That is dang impressive!

(And I did not know you could laser-cut styrene -- was always told it produced cyanide and was lethal)

Following along closely.
Thank you!
Love it. Just don’t ever carry it down the stairs. :)
Thanks. Right?! Haha!
Sharper than this and you'll die:eek::eek::cool::cool:(y)(y):notworthy::notworthy: Those wafers panels are great. Lots of the nuke bombs from 2001 have those aplenty. Always difficult to get those :(
Thank you joberg, I appreciate it!
Awesome your are off woth a great start for the X1. Keep it comming.
Thank you!
Great work. Is the cockpit ball and armature from another kit?
Thanks! The cockpit ball and armature are from my SS TIE-Fighter build. Well the armature is new for this build.

 
It depends on the piece, but for the most part I just use an X-acto and sanding sticks. Some times I'll use a small pair of side cutters. A lot of these parts are tiny.
 
Thank you!
For years I've been using Bondo brand primer. It's my favorite rattle can primer but it's getting hard to get.

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So now I've started using Upol primer. It's really good, nice and smooth, dries fast, very sandable.

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