mikajedi
Well-Known Member
This is just a custom display base I made with some greeblies to simulate a droid main neck.
2-1B Surgical Droid
- Thread starter flthymcnsty
- Start date
Well, here is mine.
Zorgs kits are very, very well cast and clean. I'd not hesitate to recommend them to anyone and the guy is very helpful should you need advice. I've the torture droid of his to do as well if only this weather would either stop raining sideways or blowing a force ten gale and this one isn't finished quite yet either. The piece in the mouth was just a test build, and I want to do the internal neck structure to completely finish it off. If the head is out in the natural sunlight it has more a more blueish tint to it. I finally finished the weathering by dry brushing a combination of steel grey and silver, then buffing it with a rag. The effect is as close as I can get it to the screen prop (at the moment).
PS I also added a few more holes by using a 1mm bit to deepen some and add a few others. When cutting off the mouth piece I slightly broke the nose so rebuilt it with apoxy sculpt which is why mine is a bit more battered than it was when Zorg supplied it. The metal bits he has added really do make a difference to the appearance ( I originally painted mine in) and the clear neck part is a tight but precise fit with careful trimming
Zorgs kits are very, very well cast and clean. I'd not hesitate to recommend them to anyone and the guy is very helpful should you need advice. I've the torture droid of his to do as well if only this weather would either stop raining sideways or blowing a force ten gale and this one isn't finished quite yet either. The piece in the mouth was just a test build, and I want to do the internal neck structure to completely finish it off. If the head is out in the natural sunlight it has more a more blueish tint to it. I finally finished the weathering by dry brushing a combination of steel grey and silver, then buffing it with a rag. The effect is as close as I can get it to the screen prop (at the moment).
PS I also added a few more holes by using a 1mm bit to deepen some and add a few others. When cutting off the mouth piece I slightly broke the nose so rebuilt it with apoxy sculpt which is why mine is a bit more battered than it was when Zorg supplied it. The metal bits he has added really do make a difference to the appearance ( I originally painted mine in) and the clear neck part is a tight but precise fit with careful trimming
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ohh totally missed the updated pics. thanks for sharing.
i really like the colour you got on that cut thumb.
there is one thing i would do is maybe take some steel wool along the metal alice band to dull it slightly, the new rolls of alu tape i got are pretty shiney.
no one doing the center section of the neck ring in white?
full head kits will be available shortly.
-z
i really like the colour you got on that cut thumb.
there is one thing i would do is maybe take some steel wool along the metal alice band to dull it slightly, the new rolls of alu tape i got are pretty shiney.
no one doing the center section of the neck ring in white?
full head kits will be available shortly.
-z
Bigturc
Sr Member
Chris -
Have you looked at the LF-3 which is 7mm of diameter? I don't have the droid head with me to compare though ..
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Thanks guys! When it came to the painting I used a couple of the recommended metalized rattle cans, rather than an airbrush, so I ended up with layers of paint in order to get an evenish base colour . After that had hardened I painted the entire head with black acrylic ,getting it deep into the holes, let that dry, then scoured it off. I then dry brushed a 50/50 mix of silver and steel grey, let that dry then buffed it with various rags. A quick wipe of Burnt Umber in places and it was finished.
The added holes came from sitting infront of TESB with a pencil and just roughing in a few areas of detail, given the thousands Chris has already put in to it was just a couple of hours work. A bit of apoxy sculpt around the nose to repair cutting damage and to roughen the eye surfaces and that was it. Because the weather here has been terrible I couldn't use airbrushes so the effects were "rougher" and less even ,which works in its favour.
Zorgs sculpts and casting are some of the cleanest I've ever seen.The dimensions and surfaces on his EV torture droid which I'm trying to paint now are close to absolute perfection as is possible.
I'll add hoses and bits like the rest of the guys here have done in the New Year.May be by then Chris will have seen another few new droids he might like to build- regards Cut.
The added holes came from sitting infront of TESB with a pencil and just roughing in a few areas of detail, given the thousands Chris has already put in to it was just a couple of hours work. A bit of apoxy sculpt around the nose to repair cutting damage and to roughen the eye surfaces and that was it. Because the weather here has been terrible I couldn't use airbrushes so the effects were "rougher" and less even ,which works in its favour.
Zorgs sculpts and casting are some of the cleanest I've ever seen.The dimensions and surfaces on his EV torture droid which I'm trying to paint now are close to absolute perfection as is possible.
I'll add hoses and bits like the rest of the guys here have done in the New Year.May be by then Chris will have seen another few new droids he might like to build- regards Cut.
lonepigeon
Master Member
Got my new 2-1B yesterday!
I was wondering what those magnets were for.
The real droid looks like it has round white stickers. I'm planning to go with reflective sign stickers - I might do the same for the white stripe around the neck ring.
There are 4 different greeblies in the Bacta droid's eyes. 3 are aluminum bits from Michell turntable parts. The 4th is a blue rod with a clear threaded base (center of his right eye) - probably a switch, but I haven't found an exact match.
There's also a knurled knob from a Michell turntable behind the PL-259 connector on his chin.
I was wondering what those magnets were for.
The real droid looks like it has round white stickers. I'm planning to go with reflective sign stickers - I might do the same for the white stripe around the neck ring.
There are 4 different greeblies in the Bacta droid's eyes. 3 are aluminum bits from Michell turntable parts. The 4th is a blue rod with a clear threaded base (center of his right eye) - probably a switch, but I haven't found an exact match.
There's also a knurled knob from a Michell turntable behind the PL-259 connector on his chin.
Howlrunner
Sr Member
Great work on EV. I really would like to add one to my collection one day...
Thanks BT and HR. Tried to find some pics of EV but failed. Sat in front of ROTJ with brushes and painted the dirt in! Again its hard to pin down the colours, in bright daylight it looks more tobacco brown, in darker indoors (like the droid torture chamber) its more dark reddish like the film. These pics are really mid point. Used Tamiya red brown over the base red, then mixed it up with airbrushed darker browns and brick red the darkest. Stopped and polished it with a dirty rag with acrylic black again like the surgical droid and just kept building it up, then dry brushed silver and grime in again. Yeah, if you know what the underside looks like go for it, it would really make an already great build.
Hey lonepigeon when you do your LEDs hot glue them in if you can as some of the light spills out backwards into the droid neck like in the film.
Hey lonepigeon when you do your LEDs hot glue them in if you can as some of the light spills out backwards into the droid neck like in the film.
Bigturc
Sr Member
Quoted for prosperity!!! To complete this, I'm pretty sure the bigger nipple is a PLASTRUCT LF-3 lamp shade too.
Lone, do you have high rez of the eye section? I started researching the Michell parts because of my HIC builds but not sure which parts go in the eye section since I don't see them clearly? Enlighten us!
Got my Shure 55 mic in the mail the other day! Expecting my helmet kit any day now! Can't wait!
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