TOS Type II Phaser Replica (my final attempt (no, really))

[Chrisisall]

A few weeks ago I ordered a type 2 3D printed phaser on eBay made by Cyberia Online Systems in Canada, and when I got it I was stunned. Almost every single line & measurement was spot on! Only the P1 needs some 1mm slimming towards the rear from a top view. Okay, and yeah, some unavoidable print lines, and the silver parts aren't real metal, but for the price it's frankly amazing IMO. But then I saw... possibilities.... I contacted the owner & asked if I could buy one un-assembled, and he said no problem. I then ordered a full spread of metal parts and when the Cyberia parts get here I will get to sanding, priming & painting the body and fitting the new metal parts.
My last 'last' type 2 hero phaser was based on the Diamond Select body, and I did not correct some of the issues there due to some foolish assumptions on my part- this one will be as accurate as it gets (crossing fingers).
I already prepped some of the metal parts, rounding the rear fins, sanding down the side turn to look more accurate. Haven't done the final buff on those yet.
This will be my 6th phaser (third I've made myself); time to construct a Galileo storage locker!

 

[Leinads]

Hey now, watch your language there! Possibilities, full spread of metal parts, foolish assumptions? Lol. I’m really looking forward to following your build!

 

[Chrisisall]

I was studying the Greg Jein phaser photos and discovered that the emitter on the hero phasers was hollow. As I only have solid ones I ordered a hollow one since I'm trying to be precise.

 

[Leinads]

Are you adding new P1 hardware now or is that going to be a separate, future project?

 

[Chrisisall]

Are you adding new P1 hardware now or is that going to be a separate, future project?

Well, I'm making this as a solid type 2, so the only hardware I'm adding to the P1 is what's visible. The nozzle & trigger will go into my parts box.

 

[Chrisisall]

Okay, now to sweat the little stuff... gotta shorten the P1 by 1.5 mm & build up the rear reception point on the P2 body by the same. Then figure out how to shuffle the P1's top features around a bit. Also have to take off 1/2 mm on either side of the handle. Mostly kid stuff.

 

[Captain Dunsel]

I was studying the Greg Jein phaser photos and discovered that the emitter on the hero phasers was hollow. As I only have solid ones I ordered a hollow one since I'm trying to be precise.View attachment 1742397

Well…if you will allow me to put on my famous “Mr. Snooty Know-it-All Hat”…the Jein hero emitter is not simply a hollow conical shaped straw (like the replica above).

Its structure is a bit more complex and looks more like this one:

Speculation, at one point, was that that original hero emitters may have come from a plastic ballpoint pen.

 

[Chrisisall]

Well…if you will allow me to put on my famous “Mr. Snooty Know-it-All” hat…the Jein hero emitter is not simply hollow like a conical shaped straw (like the replica above).

Its structure is a bit more complex and looks more like this one:

View attachment 1742423

Speculation, at one point, was that that original hero emitters may have come from a plastic ballpoint pen.

View attachment 1742424View attachment 1742425

Wow! Thanks- I learn new stuff constantly here!

 

[publiusr]

I think some miniature stands are similar.

 

[Chrisisall]

I think some miniature stands are similar.

Sorry, 'miniature stands'-?

 

[publiusr]

FASA miniatures we’re clear…I think..

 

[Chrisisall]

Since the Diamond Select handle is a little more accurate in width than the Cyberia print, I decided to hack one off my throw away DS test piece and use that instead of trying to sand down the tougher print plastic. I also, of course, have to shorten the bottom of the handle by about 2mm.

 

[Chrisisall]

I just sanded it to the correct length & made a little bottom cap plate from sheet styrene.

 

[AdmiralBaxter]

Since the Diamond Select handle is a little more accurate in width than the Cyberia print, I decided to hack one off my throw away DS test piece and use that instead of trying to sand down the tougher print plastic. I also, of course, have to shorten the bottom of the handle by about 2mm.
View attachment 1743177

View attachment 1743178

Actually the Cyberia print is the correct size and what you want to use. Overall thickness is 3/4 or 0.75 inches

 

[Chrisisall]

Actually the Cyberia print is the correct size and what you want to use. Overall thickness is 3/4 or 0.75 inches

Really? That would be the easier route. Where do you get your measurements from?

 

[Leinads]

Another option:

STAR TREK TOS PHASER PLASTIC BLACK HANDLE PART

STAR TREK TOS PHASER PLASTIC BLACK HANDLE PART. THIS IS A MORE ACCURATE ONE PIECE HOLLOW HANDLE. PERFECT FOR ANY TOS PHASER PROJECT. IN STOCK! Ship

scifiprops.ecrater.com

 

[Chrisisall]

Another option:

STAR TREK TOS PHASER PLASTIC BLACK HANDLE PART

STAR TREK TOS PHASER PLASTIC BLACK HANDLE PART. THIS IS A MORE ACCURATE ONE PIECE HOLLOW HANDLE. PERFECT FOR ANY TOS PHASER PROJECT. IN STOCK! Ship

scifiprops.ecrater.com

Thanks so much, but I think I got this.
My Wand phaser has an excellent SD Studios replacement handle. Unfortunately connecting it to my new phaser would prove problematic since I'd be forced to drill out the top to make the connection to this new piece, otherwise I'd just order another one. My new phaser's handle will look pretty much like it, though.

 

[Leinads]

This is going to be beautiful!

 

[Chrisisall]

This is going to be beautiful!

I sure am hoping. I'm not rich, so I have to plan these attempts well. The Wand phaser is the one to beat, and my last one beat it by just a tiny, tiny bit IHMO. This new one must beat it by more than a tiny bit....

 

[AdmiralBaxter]

I sure am hoping. I'm not rich, so I have to plan these attempts well. The Wand phaser is the one to beat, and my last one beat it by just a tiny, tiny bit IHMO. This new one must beat it by more than a tiny bit....View attachment 1743313

I remember this phaser........ It was fun helping you perfect it!