Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!

[CountLau]

Another consideration about the collar stand.

I'm trying to find a way to put it (for me it's a problem now, since the collar was a bit too tight from the beginning), and now that I put a buckram thin stand instead of my previous thicker neoprene half-moon, I did it shorter, to make it more SA but first of all to save room for my face to be shrinked too much when the collar is closed.
Now I wanna try to make it a bit wider, because I understand, also from this pic, that a half-moon that is just as wide as the back of the neck, tends to folds outside when there's weight enough, exactly as it was when I received the coat with no buckram and no stand, but personally, even if it seems to behave the same way in the movie, I don't like it, and I prefer a collar that retains the folded upright proper shape always, so for that, if someone if going to tweak the same way, I suggest to put a wider half-moon (with lower corners reaching an equal length from the back of the neck, to reach about the right collar base edge corner).
Before my transformation, my first neoprene half-moon was like that, and imho was better.

probably SA maniacs will disagree, but to me, considering only what is nice to be seen and not just to be screen accurate, I would do also something different, and more practical (the collar folding that way, I find it annoying and uncomposed, and I'm realising mine now is like that again, probably also because of the increased consistence of the new fur).

 

[CountLau]

ok. probably this is the final comparison I make, for my current coat.
Well, in the end, I think the final result, it's simply unbelievable.

I confirm that the color is still a little lighter than what I wanted, and I might decide to distress the fur a little more, as well as adding a minimum of additional padding to the upper sleeves area, even if here I'm only wearing a t-shirt, the fabric is loosened a bit after all that, but it may seem loose-fitting also for that (with a sweater is quite better).

Collar look and shape, I found a consistent improvement, even better than how it looked before my fails.

Given how it turned out now at the end, I can no longer say that I would eat my hands if I went back, maybe I was thinking too negatively.
It certainly could have gone much better if I avoided losing so much coating with the fails, and by now it would have retained a bit of shine, I would still want to look for ways to give it back, but I don't think it would hold up to even one more type of aggressive treatment without deciding to break down and send me to hell.

However, both in person and in pics, I find the similarity of the colors superior to before, it impresses me and surprised me for the better in a way I no longer hoped for.

With the fear that I have of spending a large amount of money to have an SR that still sometimes seems a little too dark to me (and I would never work on it like that again), and with details that I had implemented here on a proper design base and details (except the collar, actually too short from the beginning), really maybe I should avoid buying it in the end, but I'm afraid I will anyway.

Open comments (and posts with pics and vids of SR owners who want to show off their coat as much as possible, would always be very welcome).

 

[Mechanismo]

Hi everyone,
I've gotten a few PMs requesting my WSL custom collar instructions so I thought I'd share the most updated version here. Happy hunting.

 

[CountLau]

Hi everyone,
I've gotten a few PMs requesting my WSL custom collar instructions so I thought I'd share the most updated version here. Happy hunting.

I really hope that maybe among them, there is someone who, perhaps unofficially, helps SR to improve that part, because after having analyzed the issue well, as you had already discussed here, if I take an SR I'm not sure I'll modify the collar placement: there is the risk of deshape the lapel and coat in general, I would have a method to keep those lapels in the right shape (the same with buckram and some other tricks that I have already used on the one I have), but if they become too big and especially the right one that it's not related to the collar, inevitably open too much outwards, there's the risk of doing other stupid things (and I wouldn't do any more after such an expense).

It's really a shame that the owner opted out so soon from wanting to make the necessary implementations. I'm waiting for their typical discounts for the coming period, but it would be better to avoid even thinking about that job.

On the piping, I managed to do it with thin shoe laces and thin strips of buckram, without having to ruin or completely redo the stitching, the practice I did on one of my ducks was successful.

Another thing about SR that is not yet clear to me are these magnets: I understand that there are 2 on the neck to keep it open when folded, but on the closure apart from the hook (to be repositioned lower if you want it SA) and the buckle at the collar, there isn't even one? I reread but it escapes me if it was a problem only for someone, or if all their replicas sold don't even have a pair of all the other necessary magnets (regardless I would add some anyway for my details that I would take care of).

About the cut below I see everyone's length, so it shouldn't be a big problem, I imagine there is some margin for tweaks.

I would make the stand strictly in neoprene and not in plastic or buckram, so it remains soft enough and holds its shape perfectly as in my latest pics. Making it in buckram was a waste of time, the buckram is useful, but more for other things, I would say, from recent experience (we will then have to see how I would fare on the SR fabric).

The piping in theory on SR should also be added to the outer seams at the pockets, the seams of which should be slightly corrected, Jameel's are more SA.

Also some particular stitching on the elbow, which both Jameel and WSL have done correctly, it seems to me that they aren't there on SR and should be added (I don't think it's a big problem, although perhaps I would be better able to imitate them than to do them exactly like they should, but the effect would be good, or at most it's a small job for a tailor who has more professional skills than I don't have).

I would avoid shoulder padding, but I would have no problem changing my mind and doing it myself if I would convince myself otherwise when I have it.

Shifting the sleeves to make them the same, I would definitely leave that aside too, unless I found them too long and then if I had to do it anyway, I would shorten the piece that is longer, compared to the film.

However, to date the collar to be moved without messing up anything else is the problem.
I won't even mention the fur, it's the minor problem, but overall...a lot of work to do with it.

 

[Mechanismo]

I really hope that maybe among them, there is someone who, perhaps unofficially, helps SR to improve that part, because after having analyzed the issue well, as you had already discussed here, if I take an SR I'm not sure I'll modify the collar placement: there is the risk of deshape the lapel and coat in general, I would have a method to keep those lapels in the right shape (the same with buckram and some other tricks that I have already used on the one I have), but if they become too big and especially the right one that it's not related to the collar, inevitably open too much outwards, there's the risk of doing other stupid things (and I wouldn't do any more after such an expense).

It's really a shame that the owner opted out so soon from wanting to make the necessary implementations. I'm waiting for their typical discounts for the coming period, but it would be better to avoid even thinking about that job.

On the piping, I managed to do it with thin shoe laces and thin strips of buckram, without having to ruin or completely redo the stitching, the practice I did on one of my ducks was successful.

Another thing about SR that is not yet clear to me are these magnets: I understand that there are 2 on the neck to keep it open when folded, but on the closure apart from the hook (to be repositioned lower if you want it SA) and the buckle at the collar, there isn't even one? I reread but it escapes me if it was a problem only for someone, or if all their replicas sold don't even have a pair of all the other necessary magnets (regardless I would add some anyway for my details that I would take care of).

About the cut below I see everyone's length, so it shouldn't be a big problem, I imagine there is some margin for tweaks.

I would make the stand strictly in neoprene and not in plastic or buckram, so it remains soft enough and holds its shape perfectly as in my latest pics. Making it in buckram was a waste of time, the buckram is useful, but more for other things, I would say, from recent experience (we will then have to see how I would fare on the SR fabric).

The piping in theory on SR should also be added to the outer seams at the pockets, the seams of which should be slightly corrected, Jameel's are more SA.

Also some particular stitching on the elbow, which both Jameel and WSL have done correctly, it seems to me that they aren't there on SR and should be added (I don't think it's a big problem, although perhaps I would be better able to imitate them than to do them exactly like they should, but the effect would be good, or at most it's a small job for a tailor who has more professional skills than I don't have).

I would avoid shoulder padding, but I would have no problem changing my mind and doing it myself if I would convince myself otherwise when I have it.

Shifting the sleeves to make them the same, I would definitely leave that aside too, unless I found them too long and then if I had to do it anyway, I would shorten the piece that is longer, compared to the film.

However, to date the collar to be moved without messing up anything else is the problem.
I won't even mention the fur, it's the minor problem, but overall...a lot of work to do with it.

Right, CountLau but just to be clear, the instructions I provide above only deal with WSL and customizing + correcting their default collar's design and placement. The improvement is night and day. SR is a totally different ball of wax.

 

[CountLau]

Right, CountLau but just to be clear, the instructions I provide above only deal with WSL and customizing + correcting their default collar's design and placement. The improvement is night and day. SR is a totally different ball of wax.

Well yes, I've heard intuitively, but I see that there's a public attachment, but some people may have a connection with SR too, hoping to bring them improving a bit their product...because I'm afraid that of two coats I would find myself, the SR could be exactly what I would refrain from tweaking that aspect (ending with my current one as the most SA) or perhaps do it in a less radical way, avoiding creating disproportions, because even from pics I've seen here in the forum, it seems clear to me that the trend is that... you know, no, I'd avoid to take one step forward and two steps backward

Anyway, I'll hope it will work for any wsl buyer. I insisted in emailing them, but no other response has come, maybe they will convince to fix that collar once and for all, but no answering at me, neither to give a negative feedback about what we were talking about (mainly the duck laminate), lead me to my definitive choice to be closer.

 

[Mechanismo]

Well yes, I've heard intuitively, but I see that there's a public attachment, but some people may have a connection with SR too, hoping to bring them improving a bit their product...because I'm afraid that of two coats I would find myself, the SR could be exactly what I would refrain from tweaking that aspect (ending with my current one as the most SA) or perhaps do it in a less radical way, avoiding creating disproportions, because even from pics I've seen here in the forum, it seems clear to me that the trend is that... you know, no, I'd avoid to take one step forward and two steps backward

Again, yes, but altering a WSL and a SR are two distinctly different things so let's be careful not to throw them into the same pot. Amending/correcting a WSL collar is a win-win.

 

[CountLau]

Again, yes, but altering a WSL and a SR are two distinctly different things so let's be careful not to throw them into the same pot. Amending/correcting a WSL collar is a win-win.

Ok got it, it's clear you wrote it's about wsl collar.
But all these potential buyers for them, in addition to making me hope that it will bear the necessary fruits for those who buy them thanks to your pdf also, I hope that at least it will push (I don't mean by necessarily inspiring you with a PDF made specifically for a WSL) perhaps to those in contact with SR, to ask theirselves two more questions.

I know, I'm preaching in the desert and wasting words, I should probably give up by now that if I buy from them, I'll have that stuff over there and to make sure I don't ruin it, I'll have to stick to what I know, whereas if I just keep my current one, good result but after having probably annoyed many with the laminate argument by almost half the thread and being left with a replica that is almost no longer laminated, I would be a living contradiction...so I'm crossing my finger also my toes, about everything good about it to eventually happen before my last purchase.

Sorry for wsl, maybe I should wait more, maybe you insisted more than me with them at that time.
Paradoxically, Seann ended answering about all my questions readily this time, I'II have to make a few words of amends because sometimes in certain posts I may have seem lapidary or arrogant.
However, this does not mean any openness on their part in the sense that we intend it to be useful, and I will certainly not be the one to invite them to do anything more. If they wanted to take inspiration from what you had proposed at the time, they could have avoided sniping at those who maybe a little too passionate about the topic but it certainly didn't make me think of any bullying action by everybody there, and continue to improve its design, instead of disappearing and closing the door on you.
But the fact remains that today, despite certain shortcomings that are apparently not all manageable, I have more guarantees from them than from others, according to the feedback received from those directly interested.

 

[Mechanismo]

I really hope that maybe among them, there is someone who, perhaps unofficially, helps SR to improve that part, because after having analyzed the issue well, as you had already discussed here, if I take an SR I'm not sure I'll modify the collar placement: there is the risk of deshape the lapel and coat in general, I would have a method to keep those lapels in the right shape (the same with buckram and some other tricks that I have already used on the one I have), but if they become too big and especially the right one that it's not related to the collar, inevitably open too much outwards, there's the risk of doing other stupid things (and I wouldn't do any more after such an expense).

It's really a shame that the owner opted out so soon from wanting to make the necessary implementations. I'm waiting for their typical discounts for the coming period, but it would be better to avoid even thinking about that job.

On the piping, I managed to do it with thin shoe laces and thin strips of buckram, without having to ruin or completely redo the stitching, the practice I did on one of my ducks was successful.

Another thing about SR that is not yet clear to me are these magnets: I understand that there are 2 on the neck to keep it open when folded, but on the closure apart from the hook (to be repositioned lower if you want it SA) and the buckle at the collar, there isn't even one? I reread but it escapes me if it was a problem only for someone, or if all their replicas sold don't even have a pair of all the other necessary magnets (regardless I would add some anyway for my details that I would take care of).

About the cut below I see everyone's length, so it shouldn't be a big problem, I imagine there is some margin for tweaks.

I would make the stand strictly in neoprene and not in plastic or buckram, so it remains soft enough and holds its shape perfectly as in my latest pics. Making it in buckram was a waste of time, the buckram is useful, but more for other things, I would say, from recent experience (we will then have to see how I would fare on the SR fabric).

The piping in theory on SR should also be added to the outer seams at the pockets, the seams of which should be slightly corrected, Jameel's are more SA.

Also some particular stitching on the elbow, which both Jameel and WSL have done correctly, it seems to me that they aren't there on SR and should be added (I don't think it's a big problem, although perhaps I would be better able to imitate them than to do them exactly like they should, but the effect would be good, or at most it's a small job for a tailor who has more professional skills than I don't have).

I would avoid shoulder padding, but I would have no problem changing my mind and doing it myself if I would convince myself otherwise when I have it.

Shifting the sleeves to make them the same, I would definitely leave that aside too, unless I found them too long and then if I had to do it anyway, I would shorten the piece that is longer, compared to the film.

However, to date the collar to be moved without messing up anything else is the problem.
I won't even mention the fur, it's the minor problem, but overall...a lot of work to do with it.

Just to touch on your comments, yes, I agree that shifting the collar on a SR is not without its problems. But more that "one step step forwards, two step backwards" I see it in terms of you're "damned if you, damned if you don't".

On an SR, if you shift the collar, it will make it more SA in terms of the placement but...as a result, the coat's right lapel will now open too wide.
But, if you don't shift the collar, you're stuck with SR's default 'downward' drooping collar' problem. So, again, it's a damned if you do, damned if you don't fix.

SR's biggest problem is that their lapel placement sits too low on the chest. The movie coat's (and WSL) lapel placing is further up, starting at the collarbone, and -crucially- not really connected to the collar at all. This picture says it all:

Regarding SR's collar pattern itself, it's rectangular and non-tapered. To achieve that, it would take some very skilled alterations and, yes it's very risky. Here's a comparison with measurements provided by Shahrooz.

Regarding the shoulder panel structuring... The fact that SR has zero structuring is perplexing. To me, the short side of the collar flush against the neck and the structured/capped shoulder panels is what makes the BR 2049 coat so distinctive. The fact that SR gets these two major things wrong is pretty glaring IMO. Same thing with the piping.

 

[Patattack]

Hi everyone,
I've gotten a few PMs requesting my WSL custom collar instructions so I thought I'd share the most updated version here. Happy hunting.

I hadn't noticed before that you provide specific measurements for various dimensions on the collar. Out of curiosity, are these intended to be "universal" measurements that should work for any size of coat, or were they tailored specifically to your personal coat/body?

 

[Mechanismo]

I hadn't noticed before that you provide specific measurements for various dimensions on the collar. Out of curiosity, are these intended to be "universal" measurements that should work for any size of coat, or were they tailored specifically to your personal coat/body?

That's a good question. As you can see from the PDF, all I did was size up the pattern and measurements from the coat on an (excellent) Officer K 1/6 figure. I'm 6'1 (185cm) and a size 40/42. So, if your frame and size is smaller or bigger, perhaps it should be scaled accordingly. To what degree? I simply don't know. Perhaps this is something WSL could answer if they're provided with that info... That said, CountLau has more hands-on experience when it comes to tailoring, so he might be able to weigh in.

 

[CountLau]

I hadn't noticed before that you provide specific measurements for various dimensions on the collar. Out of curiosity, are these intended to be "universal" measurements that should work for any size of coat, or were they tailored specifically to your personal coat/body?

That's a good question. As you can see from the PDF, all I did was size up the pattern and measurements from the coat on an (excellent) Officer K 1/6 figure. I'm 6'1 (185cm) and a size 40/42. So, if your frame and size is smaller or bigger, perhaps it should be scaled accordingly. To what degree? I simply don't know. Perhaps this is something WSL could answer if they're provided with that info... That said, CountLau has more hands-on experience when it comes to tailoring, so he might be able to weigh in.

I'm not a pro, but imho the appropriate measurements must be harmonized with the rest (size of the shoulder panel, width etc and above all the face, so if the nose is longer than a certain amount it touches the same and so on).
This is one of the reasons why I have always maintained that regardless of the cost, in the end barring strokes of luck, it is always probable (and you have to take this into account) that, if you want it perfect and without having available who is able, will need to tailor the coat in person (with a tailor if you are not able to do it yourself).
In this, having the right size makes you end up like in my case (the first one I did on my own ended badly, I weigh 10kg more now in just a short year, due to unexpected post-covid physical recovery with muscles regained, the second one was already that collar is quite narrow, now with new thicker fur and buckram, even more).

Certainly regarding the proportions to be SA, I would say that that file says it right.
I made a calculation with my bep (basically dividing the length of the upper edge with that of the base, putting the height in the background since in any case it covered me well up to under the eyes and in fact I find it an even more subjective figure based on how your face is made, nose-yey different heights and so on), and I found the same proportion between the base length and the top length of that file, but that's just to understand how the different proportions are comparing that file to my bep,too bad that... mine s too narrow anyway and that's it, but it doesn't mean that that file says it wrong, it simply means that on me, although a size was made that fit the body and shoulders well, it didn't fit exactly great on the collar, because in any case, in addition to having a barely perceptible funnel shape, it certainly didn't take into account my nose (which didn't is that it is huge, but it can be a little longer than average) and some other parameters of the head, which in fact I don't remember having compiled in the file, and perhaps even if present, a model made in a certain way and not optimized in that way sense, it would have risked leading to this anyway (I noticed a couple cm more in custom size, but not even know if the one who made it, received notes I submit when I ended placing my order).

 

[CountLau]

Just to touch on your comments, yes, I agree that shifting the collar on a SR is not without its problems. But more that "one step step forwards, two step backwards" I see it in terms of you're "damned if you, damned if you don't".

On an SR, if you shift the collar, it will make it more SA in terms of the placement but...as a result, the coat's right lapel will now open too wide.
But, if you don't shift the collar, you're stuck with SR's default 'downward' drooping collar' problem. So, again, it's a damned if you do, damned if you don't fix.

SR's biggest problem is that their lapel placement sits too low on the chest. The movie coat's (and WSL) lapel placing is further up, starting at the collarbone, and -crucially- not really connected to the collar at all. This picture says it all:

View attachment 1798857

Regarding SR's collar pattern itself, it's rectangular and non-tapered. To achieve that, it would take some very skilled alterations and, yes it's very risky. Here's a comparison with measurements provided by Shahrooz.

View attachment 1798858


Regarding the shoulder panel structuring... The fact that SR has zero structuring is perplexing. To me, the short side of the collar flush against the neck and the structured/capped shoulder panels is what makes the BR 2049 coat so distinctive. The fact that SR gets these two major things wrong is pretty glaring IMO. Same thing with the piping.

I guess Shahrooz size is xl, numbers I got from Seann for my L are different, but definitely reassuring: we are talking about 4cm more than my actual bep length so even if it turns out to have a less funnel shape, in the end I clearly have room to fit my face in it, and also put a thicker fur in it, buckram, adding magnets and maybe who knows what more.

I don't really like that much the "jump" between the greater shoulder padding and the rest (as in mine, now decreased due to the stress of my procedures but I don't feel like increasing it again, and I thought it was too much even after having increased the padding, I know maybe it's less SA but I like it better this way, if I'll change my mind it won't be a pain in the ass anyway).

The piping is more of a tricky and careful job, but I think I could do it.
The rest could be fixed by the system I use with the buckram, both as regards the collar and the lapels, but in terms of wanting to make that change on the collar, too big lapels (and perhaps, disproportionate) are the reason for my main fear, I'm not sure that I would modify, at the cost of having the collar which is not exactly as I wanted it, but rather, too low in the hairline, on this I have seen both pics of users here with the original SR, and some of their pics, which would suggest a not such a marked problem, but I think it will still be there and I should think about it.

For me it's actually simple:
- don't want to wax but want a washable cloth with a little (minimal) shine with what you've been through, you consider it a priority over everything else and not manageable by you = just SR, even at the cost of keeping some obvious defects. Because otherwise, it becomes a mere question of style, but if I cannot be sure of improving, there is little to say, and I rely on what I have understood to count most (washability, maximum general potential quality, comfort without parts that tighten if you move, dynamic, durability, color maybe not close to film like what I did but still terrific, not too dark or devoid of iridescence like mine now).

I could decide to use it normally and limit myself to very few key and safe interventions, and if I want to do a cosplay style outing I'll take out the bep which is now absolutely top for that, even if I would have to wax it (but maybe I had already said what happened when I had already tried this).

 

[CountLau]

because you will agree that if it were a question of "take one step forward and two steps back" it is certainly to be avoided as a loss, but also saying "damned if you do, damned if you don't" however minor, is always a loss, because if you have to ruin something else anyway and lose money and/or time and energy in the meantime, you might as well not do it.

When I made my coat myself, it sorted out (strangely, standing at the level of my abilities) some perfectly SA details as collar placement, I had put two pics of when it was still quite similar to the film, then now it no longer has any resemblance because in an attempt to recover it in some way, I had transformed it, especially in the coating and the lining that it became ****** over time, but then later also in the closure. In any case, even with rudimentary methods and an absolutely unsuitable sewing machine that often forced me to work by hand in many places, with a result that was anything but precise and soft, I still managed to create that collar.
Can you see that it must be so difficult? Probably yes...sorry for the arrogance, but when it takes, it takes. I'm admitting my limits anyway, no problem if when I see the coat I smell a rat thinking about a job not to be done by me (and probably, neither by a pro, since I potentially don't trust anybody where I come from, especially in putting hands on such an expensive garment, even if clearly skilled if compared to my poor means), I will simply let that detail as it is, this time.

Playing in making the most SA replica is nice but it's not for me at all costs, money to invest for that now is over I must stop, and in any case it seems like a game that cannot achieve the purpose for which it is designed, in this case.

If wsl brought out a little more consistency in relating correctly, together with a magical duck laminate fabric that they hoped for, perhaps the game would end well.
But my bep's collar is narrow, it no longer holds the rain well (SR is not a garment suitable for this purpose, but I believe it will have at least a little more than my current one, with the nikwax and the other treatments they were of little use), it looks both elegant and casual and doesn't seem worn like mine today (which in any case even before, with certain strange creases that the fabric had, it's not that it looked exactly new, but I won't talk about that because there is a difference and it's my main fault).

So the goal is defined for now (when at a slightly fairer price). I will make the necessary sacrifices to keep him healthy, I will reduce my impossible demands for perfection.

 

[TwentyfortyNINE]

Hi All,

I was planning on exchanging the WSL coat I've received as it had a few issues, but I was curious on your thoughts (and so sorry for the absolute horrible picture I took). Are all WSL coats like this? Where the the mid section of the coat is so pulled in that the bottom of the coat tapers out? Kinda looks like a dress? Wondering if this was mistake or not. If they are all like this I may just return it and get something else. Would love your opinion. Maybe I'm just not looking at the coat in the film correctly.

 

[Mechanismo]

Hi All,

I was planning on exchanging the WSL coat I've received as it had a few issues, but I was curious on your thoughts (and so sorry for the absolute horrible picture I took). Are all WSL coats like this? Where the the mid section of the coat is so pulled in that the bottom of the coat tapers out? Kinda looks like a dress? Wondering if this was mistake or not. If they are all like this I may just return it and get something else. Would love your opinion. Maybe I'm just not looking at the coat in the film correctly.
View attachment 1798923

That pic is a little small. Can you try again with something a little bigger/clearer?

 

[CountLau]

Hi All,

I was planning on exchanging the WSL coat I've received as it had a few issues, but I was curious on your thoughts (and so sorry for the absolute horrible picture I took). Are all WSL coats like this? Where the the mid section of the coat is so pulled in that the bottom of the coat tapers out? Kinda looks like a dress? Wondering if this was mistake or not. If they are all like this I may just return it and get something else. Would love your opinion. Maybe I'm just not looking at the coat in the film correctly.
View attachment 1798923

Maybe I shouldn't be the one to speak since I don't own a WSL, but I'll tell you my thoughts on the pic you posted:

- it is perhaps too green, but in any case it seems beautiful to me and if you re-read this infinite thread, as far as the colors are concerned I have made a big contribution to filling it with feedback and tests carried out, but already well before my appearance, there was discussion and I've recall again how incomparable it seems, there are those who sell a darker one, a more bluish one, a grayer one etc, so if I were you, for that aspect I would keep it

- perhaps in the movie it fits a little more casual and on you even without a custom size, did the result come out in such a fitting and tight-fitting size at the waist? but also on this I would say that it suits you, perhaps you can't do anything about it because I see that eyelet at the limit, I don't know how WSL places those magnets, but the only way if you want it a little less tight at the waist is to re-evaluate its positioning and also of the internal hook (if it could come closer to the edge), if there is room for maneuver, otherwise it obviously stays that way

- the shine that isn't there, like iridescence, is a bête noire of the topic. Jameel sold me his laminate through bep, I appreciated it and I highlighted some shortcomings which I don't see or read have then been improved, one of which was certainly not very manageable by him I presume (given what he wrote a long time ago about which genre of commitment involves having a fabric laminated correctly by the manufacturer) it is precisely that fabric, which I like, but over time I have considered it too shiny and too dark, so there is no middle ground to be found, and if I were you I would be careful plasticizers or do-it-yourself solutions, if you don't want to wash it anymore and you're not worried about weight gain, you could wax it with Barbour wax, but who knows how it would end if what you have has in theory already been waxed by them, in the I doubt I wouldn't do anything

- if you have to think about urgent changes, I would take out that fur and put uniqlo on it or something like mine, with fleeces that are truly sheepskin-like, don't waste time cutting/shortening it etc, it doesn't suck and you can keep it like that, it's not a color like bright yellow or something that I wouldn't leave the house without changing, but if you're looking for opinions I'll give you mine, I don't like that and would change it immediately

- a cool aspect of the coat in the film, crucial I would say, is the positioning of the collar when open, perhaps you've put it rough and ready here, but if there are no magnets and it doesn't hold its shape well, I would take the opportunity by changing the fur and adding magnets to better keep the fold open and also buckram where needed + a collar stand. Unfortunately, today if you don't find someone who personalizes these details by studying them based on your body and how the coat fits specifically on your person, it is difficult to make a general guide for this, but there are several references in the thread to what a tailor should have in mind to discuss and possibly set them up with you

If you decide to send it back, the alternatives are the subject of continuous discussion, so also based on your own tastes, I couldn't give you an opinion on what or what not, but it's clear what the differences are between the 3 main sellers (wsl - jameel - sr).

Being obsessed with laminate and being able to do some small tailoring interventions by myself, after having taken a bep, having it half ruined for various tests but having made it excellent for cosplay (less so for my daily life intentions), I'm now aiming to get the expensive, potential higher quality but tricky design SR coat, when I get the chance at the lowest price.
I wouldn't recommend anything other than these 3, so if you really choose to return it, by rereading everything you'll definitely be able to get an idea about the other 2 or even other vendors as Magnoli (but wsl should be the best value for money anyway).

 

[Jameel Ur]

Hey all,
I'm doing a new custom coat with collar buckram inside collar bottom.

 

[CountLau]

here it is after washing machine cycle n° 16! of which the last 4/5 cycles were necessary thanks to the son of a bitch a few floors above mine who a few weeks ago dropped some sort of resin while it was raining which smeared my coat which had remained outside to dry under a protective sheet which however did not save it as that **** passed flush with my balcony (and then if someone wonder why I want a jacket that is washable: if it was waxed maybe I could just throw it away now).

The new super structured mustard fur, imho simply terrific, was one of the doubts I had regarding future changes on the new coat I would like to get, and practically taking it for granted that it would be an SR, I was afraid of losing its quality also in the fur, because it's true that it looks like a carpet, but it's real shearling, so in any case, knowing that rather than compromising the quality of the coat even just a little, I would have given up various temptations this time by putting aside SA aspects, but I don't think ( at least until I have it on hand to judge it in person) that it is poor quality stuff in any case, but I would say that after this umpteenth wash in the washing machine, which included it since I finished sewing everything together, even though it is one of practically all the furs I have seen where clearly no type of washing should be carried out other than dry cleaning (according to the manufacturer's instructions), I can confirm that it holds up very well to a 30° delicate wash cycle with detergent for delicates, as you can see it is perfect without compromising the fleeces, so probably just limit the number of potential washing cycles in a washer to 2/3, and when OVS restocks it for next winter, you know what it can give to your coat if you were thinking of buying it for a fur replacement, and I can certainly now rest assured, I have enough for another coat and possibly if the real SR shearling was of excellent quality I will keep it for something else and I will put this among the first tweaks to do.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Just done a custom coat.