Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

hi, are these david panels? or did you make some different ones?

I had my own made, thicker connections, doubled laminated so far I haven't had one break...but don't have a ton of time on them yet. (I am sure they still will eventually, but hopefully it takes much much longer then Davids)

I'm looking to invest in these, my first wear pair after about 3 months of wear have started to yellow, & the EL panels dont light all the way up, are these your listings? http://www.ebay.com/itm/182413199400 / http://www.ebay.com/itm/182380217347 ?

Yes, but I can do better pricing here then on eBay. I also have a few other parts I don't have listed. Like LED boards ect, I did a little comparison photo of them below...and right now they seem to actually double the battery life. Pretty close to the 2011 version, especially when LEDs are on.
 

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I stand corrected, they ARE lit in the Cafe 80s.

So does that mean that the shoes light up in darker conditions? It's bright outside so they're off, but given a certain lack of surrounding light and they turn on?

Love that thought.
It'd quite possibletomake a circuit that turnson when light is low I wired one intomy robot inuni Ithe think the sensor was called PV hate typing on the tablet on thetrain sorry
 
After some thought (after watching the video by Jedifyfe ), this happened.

509fd5054471df280d9db27f095dcbe4.jpg


I know there is link a few pages back with replacement batteries, but what do know about the small circuit board at terminal end?
 
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So the batteries in the link that Jedifyfe originally posted have the same type of thing at their cable end . The white plug is different and why the 2nd link is adapter leads. This circuit would be what keeps the battery from over charging.

I spoke with the staff at my local Battery World today and he suggested that these batteries die when over drawn or drained right out. Here I was concerned about memory. So based on his suggestions, what we all need to do is work out the run time you can get (lets assume 4 hours) and either place them back on charge at that time, or turn them off. He suggested running them until they are completely flat is actually bad for LI batteries.

LINK 1 batteries

LINK 2 adaption leads
 
You've got these options:


1.) Halloween costumes shoes

2.) Sport version shoes (same fabric on bottom half as a V2, but top half is vinyl and a bit short)

3.) Original V2 shoe, bulky toecap, and same electronics as the HC.

4.) A newer V2, called V2.1, it has a slimmed toecap and seems to use different fabric, more closer to a v3 fabric.

5.) An alternate V2, which has V3 fabric and a remote control lighting system with a light up strap. Its also in Black. The grey version however has a longer upper which looks deformed, so i wouldn't recommend.

6.) V3 shoe from Mr David. Most accurate to 2011 shoe so far, but seems to break easily in the electronics department. LEDs have been updated on the newest. Shoe is a bit too stiff overall, especially toe area. Its not as slim, smooth and sleek as original. Its also the most expensive replica.

Would that mean that the V2.1's are stronger (more durable) than a V3 as far as being a wear pair?

If so, I'm interested in the V2.1's to wear if anyone knows where to find them?
 
I had my own made, thicker connections, doubled laminated so far I haven't had one break...but don't have a ton of time on them yet. (I am sure they still will eventually, but hopefully it takes much much longer then Davids)



Yes, but I can do better pricing here then on eBay. I also have a few other parts I don't have listed. Like LED boards ect, I did a little comparison photo of them below...and right now they seem to actually double the battery life. Pretty close to the 2011 version, especially when LEDs are on.

Is it possible to send the shoes to you for the entire fix / upgrade? If so do we use ebay?
 
I don't think they will or can fix these panels. Ideally, the use of the wire tape (the stuff I have is used to attach soldered wires to the back of EL sheet without destroying the panels - the wires must be soldered first) to join the two domes in the event that the little joiner in the middle breaks.
I think the EL wire tape might be what you need. The problem is that the EL panel as a whole is quite long. And because EL only bends one way, which is against the way the shoe bends, and as a result, breaks occur. Two domes joined by a flexible bridge might be the only way.
If you are going to do plastic replacement parts, do you want some GITD panels? I have a set made up here not doing anything. Happy to drop them into an envelope this week.
This week, I will find courage and attempt to open my shoes and remove the batteries. Hopefully I can get these back up and running.
Thanks for the offer, that'd be great.
As of yet I haven't even ordered the replacement soles let alone take these ones off. Lots of work for my actual job lately.
 
Would that mean that the V2.1's are stronger (more durable) than a V3 as far as being a wear pair?

If so, I'm interested in the V2.1's to wear if anyone knows where to find them?

I doubt it. If it used the same charge port and button that the original V2s used, they will break within days.
 
Thanks for the offer, that'd be great.
As of yet I haven't even ordered the replacement soles let alone take these ones off. Lots of work for my actual job lately.

No problems, I will put the parts in an envelope and send them, probably tomorrow.
How are your soles holding up. Considering the surfaces I have walked over, mine are doing OK. My US10 masters are now done, so when I get some spare cash, I will make the new molds.
 
Rickhemingway said:
Would that mean that the V2.1's are stronger (more durable) than a V3 as far as being a wear pair?

If so, I'm interested in the V2.1's to wear if anyone knows where to find them?

I doubt it. If it used the same charge port and button that the original V2s used, they will break within days..

If you don't worry about the lights, the V2's seemed pretty tough. However, looking at the sole construction from others who have pulled theirs apart (holes printed all through the underside) I'm not surprised they were less comfortable than the V3's without adding an insole. I never noticed it after I put the special insoles in my V2's.
 
what did you apply it with, how long, and how did you get it off, just under running water?

IMG_0832.JPG Cost less than $10 total. I also have, and used in the past, Angelus Retrobrite and leather dye but they are much more expensive.

Mixed until i got got the color I wanted. Did a test on the bottom for different amounts of time until I got the tint I liked. Cleaned it off each time with paper towels. Took about 40 minutes to get the blue in my pic but since your mix will be different from mine I highly suggest testing it for 10-15 and clean, reapply for another and clean, and repeat until you have the color you want. Then you know exactly how long to leave it on.
 
Also I think that splitting issue I kept having was due to theses holes.
Both the V1 and the V3 use a composite foam for the midsole. It it light and spongy. Because of these two properties, the midsoles don't need to be "skeleton framed" to be light, so there is more material present under foot.

I have successfully removed the other battery from the other (right) shoe. I then connected it to my left shoe and confirmed that the issue is the battery. All lights work.

So hopefully I will be able to get this pair lit up again soon.

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And this was interesting.

5f722fa1bd5d4eb0cf593e71567ce889.jpg

14c6c4f0898e7bf3ad45d33694e99609.jpg


Notice the battery I have marked as OK actually has 3.7V 1000mah text. The other does not. So the unmarked really is a piece of Chinese crap and the other might be half decent. Hopefully I can get two new batteries soon.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
A hybrid of V2 and V3. More V2 than V3.

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They actually look like different models in some of the pictures. I asked for pictures of the actual shoes. If others do it also we can compare notes after.


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To further what cavx said...when your batteries "die" they aren't actually dead. The board on the top of the cell is a protection circuit, designed to cut power to the cell with over charge/discharge. You can pretty easily bring the cell back to life so it will work again, without actually buying a new battery. The circuit cuts off the battery at the 3-3.2v range. Doing this once will not hurt, but its not something you want to do constantly to a battery. (Picture it like jump starting a car battery)

Undo the yellow thermal tape expose the flat wires going to the board, connect them to a 5v 500-1000ma power supply (normal USB port will do) for about 15-30 minutes and your battery will charge enough to enable the circuit board again. You can now fully charge it with the actual shoe charger, and use it again like normal. (Its very important you get the polarity correct when charging them manually, and to not over charge) Only 15-30minutes to get the battery back up over the 3.2v DO NOT LEAVE UNATTENDED OR OVER CHARGE. And charge your shoes every 3-4 weeks even if you don't wear them.

cap.jpgIMG_2256.JPG
 
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