K'Tinga Again

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Steve

You sure are had to keep up with..LOL
Your like watching a ALE /Tyson fight.
When you think you have been hit with a hard right,
Then comes the left hook...LOL

Thanks you for kicking my slow mode building A
into gear with every video you do.....LOL


Would you have JT-Graphics email address?
Would like to get the same parts you have on order.

Thanks again for all you do.
Paul/kahn1701
 
I can distinctly recall being a 11 years old and going to see ST-TMP in theaters and following that beautiful overture before the opening credits, and then that amazing theme, the new Klingon cruisers flying in formation toward the camera and that rousing music. I was blown away. At the time, I had no idea it was Mark Lenard as the Klingon Captain. I loved those ships and this build by an amazing artist like Steve is a dream come true.
 
Steve that last link goes to part 2, is there supposed to be a 3 yet?

The model's looking great. I like the idea of sanding the fiber optic to make the light radiate out more. The flash looks a little fast, in the movie it appears to be 1 second on and one second off.

I took some caps from the Bluray, I hope they can be useful.
ST TMP Klingon Ship pictures by robn1 - Photobucket
 
Wow, thank you so much for posting those screen caps. It verifies something I had always wondered about regarding the red "window" in the bridge. In the close up, which was likely a larger more detailed model of just the bridge tower and upper part of the head area, the red bridge window seems to be offset from center. But then as the ship is making it's escape, you can see the red light on the full model but it's facing forward. It used to make me think that the Klingon's had an offset bridge like the TOS Enterprise. :)
 
I'm not aware of an enlarged bridge model, it's not mentioned in anything I've read about it. It looks like a close up on the full ship model. I think it's just a matter of angle, the light falls off. The center window is there, the light just doesn't show through.

Notice that the markings on the hull topside have spotlights, like the Enterprise.
 
For some reason I thought I recall seeing a larger, more detailed model of that area but I could very well confusing it with something else.
 
Rob there's only two videos so far and to make that light blink at the right speed we'd have to have a board from Randy that is 62 bucks and it's for NAVs and strobes. It would be a waste to use it for two red blinkers and there's nothing else available I'm aware of.

steve
 
Nice work in the blinkers Steve.

robn1 thanks for the screen caps.
I never noticed that there where also red windows on the back of the bridge dome.
They also confirm that there are 2 lights on each side where the boom attaches to the front bulb, I couldn't tell if they where just a reflection or not in other pictures.
 
Steve, This is another great build to follow. It's another kit I'll attempt. I just pulled out my K'Tinga kit from the 1980's!

I had no idea there are accurizing parts available for this kit, that's great. I was looking at the parts on JT Graphic's site. It looks like you can replace the neck as well. And he's got parts for the Quonos One version that has the lighted nacelles. I'll have to get the K'Tinga version parts.

I was studying the photos of the filming model on the cloudster site of The Motion Picture version and some images on Ed Miarecki's site. ( I know he's not popular, I don't like what he did to the Enterprise either! ) He restored the Quonos One version. I was wondering how you'll paint the model. I gather the K'Tinga version is more greenish and grey with reds while the Quonos One version is tan and red.

Looking forward to the next chapter and how the clear bridge parts look! How you light the bridge will be interesting to see.

And I also found my Vulcan Shuttle kit from the same era. I wonder if you'll ever tackle that one!
 
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Steve,

Glad I coudl help you out with the blinker suggestion.
One other thing, I noticed you hardwire the ship to the support rod.
Have you considered using a coaxial plug and jack setup instead?
That way, you can unplug the model from the base if you want to fly it around the room.

powerpack007-723308.jpg


30-3702.1.jpg


I buy these from Radio Shack. Size K works well for these size models.

Anyway, you may have good reasons for using the hardwire method and if that's the case feel free to ignore this post.
 
Having built this same vintage kit a few times myself including on original release in 1979 I can attest to some of the poor part fits. Steve, the ST-VI Klingon cruiser you did last month, we're the molds the same or did they rework them?
 
Those won't fit the tube very well and the connectors over time can start to loose a good contact which is why I switched to deans connectors. They are just solid.

thanks Chris for posting video!

Steve
 
SteveNeill said:
Those won't fit the tube very well and the connectors over time can start to loose a good contact which is why I switched to deans connectors. They are just solid.

thanks Chris for posting video!

Steve
Click to expand...

I see. To be honest I've noticed on my 18 inch model that in order to get the lights to go on I have to turn the coax plug a certain direction before I get a good contact. I've heard of using electrically conductive paste to improve conductivity but have never tried it. Sounds messy.

That's interesting about CA fumes and fiber breakage. I've known for years that fiber and CA shoudln't come in contact with each other but I'd never heard the bit about fumes.
Guess ya learn something every day.
 
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