Farnsworth Discussion

[Siebigteroth3]

Very nicely done. I don't know if you are interested, but if you bought the 300 second USB recording module, you can adjust the blink rate of the LED. The default blink rate is quite fast compared to the one in the show. In the PM66 Write software, it's the last column call "flash" that sets the rate. Nice case paint job by the way.

I just got two of the usb modules and cant get them to accept a flash rate on the farnsworth ring tone. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

 

[Oncoming Storm]

I just got two of the usb modules and cant get them to accept a flash rate on the farnsworth ring tone. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

There's a drop-down with the Options "F:0", "F:1" and "Off". Set that to F:1 and then the last drop down set to the first setting, which is 1hz, I believe.

Sorry I can't be more specific, but I'm going by memory, as I'm not near my computer right now.

 

[Siebigteroth3]

There's a drop-down with the Options "F:0", "F:1" and "Off". Set that to F:1 and then the last drop down set to the first setting, which is 1hz, I believe.

Sorry I can't be more specific, but I'm going by memory, as I'm not near my computer right now.

THANK YOU! That did the trick. Trying to finish the Farnsworth for Shore Leave 35 since Saul and Eddie will be there.

 

[Siebigteroth3]

Farrnsworths getting prepped for Shore Leave 35 with Saul and Eddie. One stunt farnsworth, one Claudia's, and one made with RPF recommended parts. Comments please. Thanks for the help RPF!

 

[holtt]

I've got 4 gun cartridge cases that are just about right for a Farnsworth - been thinking a military version would be neat to build with them. If you're unfamiliar with the cartridges, they look like this...

 

[DemonFire]

I haven't looked through the entire thread yet, but wanted to see what everyone else was using to mount there faceplates inside the fly box. I've seen with magnets (posted above) but just curious what everyone else came up with as I have time off coming at the end of august and was going to try and finish mine up.

 

[Oncoming Storm]

I haven't looked through the entire thread yet, but wanted to see what everyone else was using to mount there faceplates inside the fly box. I've seen with magnets (posted above) but just curious what everyone else came up with as I have time off coming at the end of august and was going to try and finish mine up.

I think magnets are the best bet for the top corners. I have read the whole thread, and I don't recall anyone really using any other kind of hardware. Except the QMx, which has some sort of screw in the back of the case that I guess screws into some threaded receptacle on the back of the plate. Whatever it is, I'm sure it's more complicated than gluing a magnet to one part and gluing a piece of metal to another part.

You don't need to worry about the bottom, though, because the knobs hold that in place.

 

[v137a]

For folks still looking for Wheatley cases, I received one this week from REC Components - Catalog. It took about six weeks to get the gold version, reportedly because the cases were out at the anodizer (which boggled my mind, since it sounds like new production).

I had tried a vintage Wheatley and didn't quite get the fit I wanted for my faceplate, but the new gold one fits like a charm.

 

[choanata]

Has anybody figured out the placement of the side jacks yet? I've read most of this thread and I'm almost done assembling mine, but I've been holding off drilling the holes until the last minute because I'd just be eyeing it. If anyone has actual measurements, I'd be much more confident.

 

[DemonFire]

Has anybody figured out the placement of the side jacks yet? I've read most of this thread and I'm almost done assembling mine, but I've been holding off drilling the holes until the last minute because I'd just be eyeing it. If anyone has actual measurements, I'd be much more confident.

I don't think there have been accurate measurements of where they go that have been taken. I just put all my stuff together and eye balled the spacing.

on another note, mines coming along, was finally able to get everything placed in last night. Only thing that happened is when I was cutting the stalk down for the left knob I cut it to short. Gonna try and get a dowel, cut and glue it on to see if that will work. Otherwise I'll be ordering another switch to replace it Otherwise just have to paint it which I plan to do on my vacation at the end of the month.

btw the speaker that comes with the kit in post 1, good luck trying to fit everything under the faceplate. I'd suggest getting the smaller speaker from the parts list on pg. 66.

 

[CPFC]

Has anybody figured out the placement of the side jacks yet? I've read most of this thread and I'm almost done assembling mine, but I've been holding off drilling the holes until the last minute because I'd just be eyeing it. If anyone has actual measurements, I'd be much more confident.

In all honesty, I've never seen any measurements for jack placement.

On the ones that I built, my criteria for placement boiled down to making sure that they wouldn't interfere with either the button or led!



Sent from my SGH-S959G using Tapatalk 2

 

[Oncoming Storm]

Has anybody figured out the placement of the side jacks yet? I've read most of this thread and I'm almost done assembling mine, but I've been holding off drilling the holes until the last minute because I'd just be eyeing it. If anyone has actual measurements, I'd be much more confident.

My method? Place a dual banana plug with the middle equidistant between the red dome and the pushbutton. Then, the two prongs will mark where your holes should go.

 

[choanata]

My method? Place a dual banana plug with the middle equidistant between the red dome and the pushbutton. Then, the two prongs will mark where your holes should go.

I went out and got one, but it ended up looking too far apart based on some of the pics in this thread. So I just eyeballed it. I think it came out pretty good, and this is just my test box anyway, while I wait for the gold one to come.

 

[Siebigteroth3]

signed sealed and delivered. Both Eddie and Saul signed it.

 

[DemonFire]

when painting the outer flybox, did anyone use a clearcoat at the end when it was all weathered down to where you wanted it? I was thinking about it since after I get it to where I wanted I would rather not have the paint job get screwed up, but was just curious what the consensus was.

 

[DemonFire]

ok I have an electronics question, needless to say I have been frustrated a little with this since it's my first time soldering and just dealing with electronics myself overall.

I'm using the soundkit from the first post, and I replaced the speaker it came with for one of these: ADS02908MR-R PUI Audio | Mouser

I've been talking with shawn (jedibugs), and he helped me out with the electronics thus far in terms of wiring it for a rotary switch and some painting tips and such.

anyway the problem I'm having now is with the speaker, the first one I bought worked great for a little bit but the copper wiring thats spindled in the center, came loose from the center, now it sounds good for the first ring but then the volume trails off with each subsequent ring. thinking it was the speaker I ordered 2 more. fast forward to this morning I put the new speaker on boom works great, one of the battery wires has come loose so I went to put it back on, afterwards I try it to make sure it works the the new speaker is doing the same thing.

I think I might know whats going one but I need help to know if it's correct. after I put the speaker on the first time I changed out most of the wires to more "ridged ones" since some of the lines would keep breaking on me and I got tired of having to redo them all the time. After that is generally when the speaker problem started to happen, so I'm guessing it's the wire's that I switched to that are the problem on why the speaker keeps getting blown out per say.

please let me know. (See attached images of the speaker and the sound board in it's present state)

 

[PeterLC]

I'm using the soundkit from the first post, and I replaced the speaker it came with for one of these: ADS02908MR-R PUI Audio | Mouser

I'm assuming that the speakers are of the same impedance (like 8 ohms or 4 ohms whatever the original was).

anyway the problem I'm having now is with the speaker, the first one I bought worked great for a little bit but the copper wiring thats spindled in the center, came loose from the center, now it sounds good for the first ring but then the volume trails off with each subsequent ring. thinking it was the speaker I ordered 2 more. fast forward to this morning I put the new speaker on boom works great, one of the battery wires has come loose so I went to put it back on, afterwards I try it to make sure it works the the new speaker is doing the same thing.

I think I might know whats going one but I need help to know if it's correct. after I put the speaker on the first time I changed out most of the wires to more "ridged ones" since some of the lines would keep breaking on me and I got tired of having to redo them all the time. After that is generally when the speaker problem started to happen, so I'm guessing it's the wire's that I switched to that are the problem on why the speaker keeps getting blown out per say.

I can see from the pics that you've used fairly thich solid wire to connect to the speaker. Just how hot was the soldering iron and how long did you hold it on the speaker terminals when soldering? It's one of those jobs that needs to be done as quickly as possible. It looks like you might have heated up the voice coil to point where the adhesive has let go. You've also got a lot of bare wire exposed on those speaker leads.

Pare only as much insulation as you need to connect it. First tin both the speaker terminals and the bared copper wire ends with a little solder. Then place the two tinned surfaces together and apply heat long enough to get the solder to flow. Remember that thick wires and different metals will act more as a heatsink than others and need more heat. It really pays to practice on something a bit to get used to how hot the iron needs to be for the components and the type of solder and how long you need to apply the heat for. If you can adjust the temperature of your iron even better. It needs to be just hot enough to melt the solder quickly. If you ever decide to try soldering transistors or ICs remember heat can be a killer.

So try the extra speaker if you have one left following those tips and see if it helps. Maybe practice on a bit of the perfboard I saw in the photo and try to solder some wires to it quickly.

ps. I can see from the photos that you've applied a lot of heat when soldering wires to the circuit board. Be really careful as you can lift the copper pads (connection areas) off the board with too much heat.

 

[PeterLC]

Has anybody figured out the placement of the side jacks yet? I've read most of this thread and I'm almost done assembling mine, but I've been holding off drilling the holes until the last minute because I'd just be eyeing it. If anyone has actual measurements, I'd be much more confident.

I'd imagine the ones on the QMx Artisan Farnsworth should be pretty right seeing as they were making the later ones for the show too. I've not measured the one I have but if I remember tomorrow I'll dig it out.

 

[PeterLC]

I think magnets are the best bet for the top corners. I have read the whole thread, and I don't recall anyone really using any other kind of hardware. Except the QMx, which has some sort of screw in the back of the case that I guess screws into some threaded receptacle on the back of the plate.

On the QMx one the screw goes through a hole in the circuit board and into the "camera lens" which is extended at the back. They've cast all their own parts. To remove the faceplate you take out that screw (with supplied Allen key) and remove one of the knobs. One knob does nothing and is attached to the faceplate, and the other controls a timer via a pot on the circuit board.

Whatever it is, I'm sure it's more complicated than gluing a magnet to one part and gluing a piece of metal to another part.

Or a small rare earth magnet to the faceplate and one on a standoff in the case in each corner.

You don't need to worry about the bottom, though, because the knobs hold that in place.

How do the knobs hold it in place? Are your pot and switch glued to bottom of the case? If they are only attached to the faceplate as mine are, the bottom of the faceplate will still move.

I think the little magnet approach is the best. I've not put the screw/rivet in the back of my box and doubt I will though the screen-used ones have something there.

 

[PeterLC]

All finished! As a replica prop, I don't think it's going to win any prizes, but I feel I should get bonus points for having made the faceplate from scratch. The faceplate is pitted slightly where the printer ink mask started to break down (*cough* "weathering"). The 300 second sound card works well, although I was almost crying when I shorted it out last night. Fortunately it does have a fuse of sorts on there, which saved the day. All in all, I'm pretty happy with the result.

Good job. It looks great and it's not a bought one. That's the great thing about fan made stuff. We can buy all the same parts but everyone's prop will be slightly different.

I've include a shot of the really nasty looking insides just in-case this is helpful to somebody.

I doubt there is a really neat way to do it without custom electronics like the QMx one.

The faceplate is held on by an arrangement of magnets. You are going to laugh, but I was actually surprised to find brass is not magnetic! Epoxy resin soon resolved that issue.

OK then * chuckle chuckle *.