Dune 2021 Atreides dress uniform + trench coat [pic heavy]

[Cameron1138]

I'm planning to start work on making Paul's Caladan outfit soon, and I figured I'd start a thread here to gather all the info I've been able to find so far and see if anyone has anything I haven't managed to find. I'm a little surprised there hasn't been more activity surrounding these uniforms yet. There are enough pictures of the Atreides dress uniform available that I think I've got it pretty much worked out.

Leto's uniform is largely identical to those worn by everyone else aside from the added accessories, but it also features gold piping on the cuffs and collar:

The above pictures seem to show visible hook-and-eye closures underneath the jacket, but in this BTS picture it looks like Paul's has a zipper, so it's possible that different versions of the jacket were made (or I could just be misinterpreting this photo). I'll probably use hook-and-eyes on mine since that feels more 'proper' for a military dress uniform:

The piped seams on the cuffs aren't present at all on other versions of the uniform, but I'll assume that the breast 'pockets' are:

The back seems to be very plain, with the belt (as you can see in one of the above photos, the buckles don't do anything; someone on Facebook suggested they might be slots to hold a weapon belt in place rather than intended to be buckles themselves) continuing all the way around with no belt loops and with just a single vertical seam (probably continuing up the collar, but can't tell for sure) with a single vent:

I'm considering making one minor change to mine and adding a small Atreides crest to the front of the jacket like Leto's has (presumably under the larger red badge he's usually seen wearing) to add a little more accuracy to the book (which specifically mentions Paul's uniform having a red Atreides hawk on the breast):

The one main thing I haven't figured out yet about the uniform (other than the color, more on that later) is whether there's piping around the collar and front edges. It looks like there is in this image (the edges of it are ever-so-slightly darker than the rest, and the line separating them doesn't look like a topstitch), and the uniform on the official figure looks like it's trying to replicate a piping effect as well:

But there clearly isn't in this image of Leto's uniform (aside from the gold that's on the collar):

And Paul's uniform looks a little off in the above image anyway (the collar badges look black, like they are on the working uniform, and while it could just be the lighting, with how direct it is on his face I'd expect the brass color to show up a lot more than that), so I'm wondering if that could be a different variant of the uniform? I'm probably not going to include piping on mine unless we can find definitive evidence that the uniform he wears in the rest of the movie has it.

The other big question is the color. We know they're actually green, and you can kind of tell in some of the photos of the costume displays (although even in those if you told me it was black I'd believe you without question), and on the figure (although obviously that's not the same fabric), but in just about every shot in the movie itself it look black, even when next to other things that are actually black like the trench coats. I'd definitely prefer to use a green-that's-so-dark-it-looks-black-under-most-lighting, but I have a feeling that'll be a nightmare to find, so I'm tempted to just use black in a brushed texture so that it looks a little lighter. Feels kind of like a case of perfectly replicating the actual prop vs. recreating just what's seen on screen, like Han Solo's jacket in ESB that looks blue but is actually grey. Anyone have any leads on potential dark green fabrics?

Do we know what shirt he wears underneath? I'd initially thought it was this one, but looking more closely the collar doesn't look right (although I still think it could be it, depending on how the collar is sitting under the jacket).


The trickiest part is the trench coat, not because of the design (it appears to be extremely simple, as far as coats like this go) but because there are very few decent images of it, and none at all from the back. Some of these images are photos I took of the movie on my laptop (damn you AppleTV and your stupid anti-piracy screenshot blocker!) so I apologize in advance for the horrible quality.

It seems to be made of some kind of shiny, waterproof material, probably waxed or laminated cotton. It's very long, almost ankle length, and it has peak lapels and a big collar. There are no fasteners except for a belt to tie around the waist and two smaller belts around the collar. It's got an Atreides hawk sigil on each sleeve at the shoulder.

This picture seems to show simple welted pockets, but it's been spliced together from multiple images so it's maybe not the most reliable. The coat included with the figure also has welted pockets, and I feel like I can also see a hint of a welted pocket under the bit of belt visible on the left side of this BTS image here, but I can't tell for sure what it is:

The cuffs (rarely seen, since Paul and Leto are wearing the leather gauntlets in most shots where the coat appears) seem to be completely plain:

The collar straps are secured with individual belt loops, one set on each side. The ends of the straps on the right (from the POV of one wearing it) are pointed and the ends of the left are flat. I don't know what to make of the straps, since there don't seem to be buckles or buttons or any other visible fastener on them. It doesn't make sense for them to be purely ornamental, though. I'm not sure what I'll do about them.

The hardest part is the back. We can't really tell anything about it at all without adjusting the exposure to see a little more detail since the images where the coat appears are all very starkly lit, but it looks like the back is very plain, with no seams or vent. (The coat on the figure does have a vent, but it really looks like there isn't one on the actual prop, so unless someone can find a screenshot proving it's there I'll assume that's an inaccuracy on the part of the figure.) The collar seems to have a separate piece around the bottom edge, like many collars of this style tend to have (sorry, don't know the technical term).

However, complicating the coat is this shot, where it almost appears to have a horizontal seam across the shoulders. It's clearly not there in the earlier images of Paul and Leto standing in the graveyard, and it definitely could just be a crease in the material, but it really looks like a seam to me. I'm not sure what to make of it but I'll probably err on the side of not including it, again unless someone has another image proving it's definitely there:

Hoping to get started on patterning the uniform soon, maybe even this weekend. I'll post in this thread as I have updates and I'm looking forward to any new info other people might have!

 

[smithjohnj]

I do not have any special knowledge of these garments so all of these comments are just my thought and observations.

It is very common to add a hook and eye fastener at the top of a zippered closure. The top of a zipper tends to be broader and sometimes forces the two edges apart. The hook and eye brings the edges back together and helps “hide” the zipper pull. Also in women's garments where the zipper was in the back and difficult to manipulate, the hook-eye provided additional strength so that the zipper did not unzip if the fabric came under stress or strain.

A collar of this type are two pieces - a collar and an undercollar. Sometimes the undercollar is cut on the bias. Even with the same fabric, the bias can can appear different as it reflects the light differently. Also to hold the edges of the two collar components in place after they are sewn together, the undercollar is understitched. This makes the edge of the undercollar stay inside the collar and less visible. These two factors may be producing a “piping” artifact.

As far as colors go, this always seems to be an issue when trying to recreate a screen accurate look. When I looked at the images I started to wonder if there are actually two different but similar uniforms. A dress uniform which is the dark bottle green and a “formal” Black Court Dress Uniform with an aiguillette or shoulder braid. This color difference is most obvious (to me) in your Paul Uniform 3.jpg where Paul's Dress is right beside Leto's “Court” Dress and then the armor. Paul's look green, Leto's looks black where the lighting should be somewhat similar although the distance varies which can affect the appearance.

The fabric I am using for the Working Uniform is a Wool-Polyester Blend. Which is made by Burlington Mills and is actually used for military uniforms. I would expect the Dress Uniforms on a water planet like Caladan might also be a wool or wool blend as it works best in a damp climate.

The shirt in your photo is what we see in the “training” scenes. I would not expect that to be also paired with more dress attire. The "dress" shirt has a rounded standing collar not a wraparound.

The large coat collar is also a cold/wet weather feature. The storm collar is stood upright to keep the rain and wind out. The straps hold the collar snug around the neck. From your Paul coat 1.jpg and img-0539.jpg it looks like there is a small flat (rectangular?) slide or buckle on left side end of the collar straps. The right ends of the straps might just slip through the opening in the slide. The action figure images looks like they might use a velcro omnitape which can hook and loop to itself to attach the ends together.

Paul coat 1.jpg and img-0547.jpg seems to show a separate front and back layer of fabric at chest-shoulder blade height. The back looks more like a flat yoke seam, but the front looks more like an overlay of fabric which is not attached to the coat chest front but is attached at the sleeve cap seam. Another common military outerwear feature for cold/wet climates is the capelet. These more often lay over the ridge of the shoulder and even extend down over the arm's sleeve cap. These seams were thus covered to make the coat more waterproof. This coat clearly does not cover the sleeve caps. At least for Leto's it does not cover the shoulder ridge seam. You can also see this type of overlay in outerwear such as shooting jackets which also provided cover or even padding at the shoulder fronts.

 

[smithjohnj]

Just a few points of my own on the Dress Uniform not already discussed. The dress uniform jacket has two front pocket flaps at belt height. Also the posed images seem to show the hem of the jacket flares out which is necessary because of the longer jacket length (as compared to the Working Uniform Jacket) needs to go over the hips. To me I would make the bottom half of the jacket a separate piece called a peplum. The seam where this attaches to the upper front and upper back of the jacket is covered and hidden by the broad belt and front collar placket. The McCalls M4745 Civil War jacket pattern uses this design. This was common to men's coats of that time period. It also makes it easy to incorporate real pockets and their flaps into this seam.

 

[Egon]

I gotta imagine the undershirts are different than the training shirt. Maybe its supposed to be* the same, but functions differently. I have only seen the film once, but if I remember, Duke Leto is getting dressed and it seems like it's at least a simile design.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Definitely there is zipper on uniform jacket with eye hook on top, it's common.
I think, gold color piping only allow for king.
The fabric looks to me duck cloth with shaded color, dark green with charcoal blended.

 

[Cameron1138]

A collar of this type are two pieces - a collar and an undercollar. Sometimes the undercollar is cut on the bias. Even with the same fabric, the bias can can appear different as it reflects the light differently. Also to hold the edges of the two collar components in place after they are sewn together, the undercollar is understitched. This makes the edge of the undercollar stay inside the collar and less visible. These two factors may be producing a “piping” artifact.

That's what I thought might have been going on there, odd that it looks so different in that one image but it'll definitely be easier to do than piping.

As far as colors go, this always seems to be an issue when trying to recreate a screen accurate look. When I looked at the images I started to wonder if there are actually two different but similar uniforms. A dress uniform which is the dark bottle green and a “formal” Black Court Dress Uniform with an aiguillette or shoulder braid. This color difference is most obvious (to me) in your Paul Uniform 3.jpg where Paul's Dress is right beside Leto's “Court” Dress and then the armor. Paul's look green, Leto's looks black where the lighting should be somewhat similar although the distance varies which can affect the appearance.

This honestly wouldn't surprise me all that much, although if the ceremonial uniforms are different from the regular dress uniforms I kind of doubt they would've included the ceremonial gear with the Paul figure.

The large coat collar is also a cold/wet weather feature. The storm collar is stood upright to keep the rain and wind out. The straps hold the collar snug around the neck. From your Paul coat 1.jpg and img-0539.jpg it looks like there is a small flat (rectangular?) slide or buckle on left side end of the collar straps. The right ends of the straps might just slip through the opening in the slide. The action figure images looks like they might use a velcro omnitape which can hook and loop to itself to attach the ends together.

Paul coat 1.jpg and img-0547.jpg seems to show a separate front and back layer of fabric at chest-shoulder blade height. The back looks more like a flat yoke seam, but the front looks more like an overlay of fabric which is not attached to the coat chest front but is attached at the sleeve cap seam. Another common military outerwear feature for cold/wet climates is the capelet. These more often lay over the ridge of the shoulder and even extend down over the arm's sleeve cap. These seams were thus covered to make the coat more waterproof. This coat clearly does not cover the sleeve caps. At least for Leto's it does not cover the shoulder ridge seam. You can also see this type of overlay in outerwear such as shooting jackets which also provided cover or even padding at the shoulder fronts.

Slide buckles on the collar straps make sense, I thought it looked like there could've been some at first but I wasn't sure. Now to somehow find some that at least look close in a small enough width...

I'm not sure what you mean about the flap on the front of the coat though. I assume you mean something similar to gun flaps, but without the buttons, right?

In every image the front of the coat looks completely smooth and featureless to me, except for the pockets.

I gotta imagine the undershirts are different than the training shirt. Maybe its supposed to be* the same, but functions differently. I have only seen the film once, but if I remember, Duke Leto is getting dressed and it seems like it's at least a simile design.

I had forgotten that we got to see him in this uniform while not wearing the jacket, so I went back and rewatched that scene. Unfortunately we never get a good look at the shirt from the front, so I still can't really tell. Honestly, this almost makes me think it's more likely it's the same shirt than before, looking at the tiny bit of collar we can see underneath the jacket. It looks pretty much exactly like how I'd expect the training shirt to look fully buttoned up. However, it also makes me wonder whether this is the same style of shirt (whether it's the same as the training shirt or something different) that they wear under the uniform in the rest of the scenes or whether that's something else, because the shirt collar here doesn't seem to be nearly high enough to stick out from under the jacket collar:

A collar similar to the one on this kimono shirt but taller is more what I'd expect:

As a bonus, we also get a clearer look at the back of the jacket in this scene. It doesn't look like there's a seam in the back of the collar after all, but I might have to add one unless I can get the twill pattern in the fabric to line up while keeping it a single piece.

The uniform also looks a lot greener in this more neutrally colored lighting.

 

[smithjohnj]

My only real justification for having two colors for the Dress/Court Uniforms is the fact the House Atreides colors are Green AND Black.

Your new image is the type of shoulder flap I was describing for the black outer trench coat going all the way to the coat center. There was one image of Paul's coat where a separation seemed to exist. With a closer read of your post I see some images were “pasted” together. I missed that. The style line I thought existed was just where two photos came together in the single Paul's Coat 1.jpg. Sorry for the misdirection. There was one image where a back yoke seam seems to exist on Paul's trench coat (IMG-4547.jpg). I have not seen a back yoke seam on the Uniform.

The Uniform Collar can be made from a single piece of fabric without a seam. The only thing is it requires a lot more fabric and the grain of the fabric cannot be aligned with the jacket front in any reasonable way. The collar piece before attachment would look something like a cotter pin with the legs spread apart. This is because of the slope of the shoulders. I have also considered putting the seam at some point or points around the collar other than the center back. The seam(s) might be hidden to a degree by the six lines of the collar's top-stitching. A stair-step type seam (or two) might be less obvious than one which goes all the way across at a single point. I may try to mock up a sample with my fabric to see if a seam is noticeable or not with the top-stitching.

The shirt collar does seem to be the same color and perhaps even fabric as the training shirt, but thenshirt under the uniform seems to be a Mandarin style with the upper corners being rounded.

The Trench coat collar buckles might be something like this slide below with a much narrower opening. I am also looking to see if there is a type of clamping buckle which might sit on the end of the strap.

 

[Cameron1138]

The Uniform Collar can be made from a single piece of fabric without a seam. The only thing is it requires a lot more fabric and the grain of the fabric cannot be aligned with the jacket front in any reasonable way. The collar piece before attachment would look something like a cotter pin with the legs spread apart. This is because of the slope of the shoulders. I have also considered putting the seam at some point or points around the collar other than the center back. The seam(s) might be hidden to a degree by the six lines of the collar's top-stitching. A stair-step type seam (or two) might be less obvious than one which goes all the way across at a single point. I may try to mock up a sample with my fabric to see if a seam is noticeable or not with the top-stitching.

The shirt collar does seem to be the same color and perhaps even fabric as the training shirt, but thenshirt under the uniform seems to be a Mandarin style with the upper corners being rounded.

Yeah, the fabric grain not lining up is what I was worried about. I'll see how significant of a difference in angle it ends up being and figure it out from there.

I suppose for the shirt, if we really don't know what it's supposed to be, I might just try and buy something that looks close underneath the jacket and plan to make a proper shirt if we ever get a better look at what they're actually wearing. I'd kinda been looking forward to making the training-style shirt, but the more I look at it the less it looks like the collar could work.

 

[Egon]

Yeah, the fabric grain not lining up is what I was worried about. I'll see how significant of a difference in angle it ends up being and figure it out from there.

I suppose for the shirt, if we really don't know what it's supposed to be, I might just try and buy something that looks close underneath the jacket and plan to make a proper shirt if we ever get a better look at what they're actually wearing. I'd kinda been looking forward to making the training-style shirt, but the more I look at it the less it looks like the collar could work.

In my experience, the training style shirt can't really close cleanly the way we see it unbuttoned (without the magnets all closed) or it doesn't drape correctly when open. But I'm still a novice drafter.

 

[Jameel Ur]

I think this image will help you out to better understand construction of training shirt.

 

[Jameel Ur]

I'm seeing three magnets on shirt placket and I think forth

magnets would be on top and fifth ones on collar. I think but not sure.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Uniform jacket has zipper.

 

[Cameron1138]

I've ordered some fabric samples and I'm almost done patterning the uniform jacket, just have to do the sleeves. Do we think the back vent goes all the way up to the belt, or could it just be folding in a way that makes it look like that's what's going on? That seems unusually high for a vent on a hip-length jacket.

And also related to vents, I'm still trying to figure out whether the trench coat has one. The coat on the figure certainly does, and the way the bottom of Paul's coat is blowing in this shot kind of makes me think the prop coats might have a vent too, and we just can't see it on Leto's coat because that portion is still too darkly lit. The left side of his coat seems to be getting blown out by the wind, and if there wasn't a vent I'd expect the entire bottom of the coat to be blown that way, but it only seems to be affecting the left part (but again, it's very hard to tell for sure).

If there is one, I'm thinking it wouldn't be a traditional vent like on a suit jacket or overcoat, but a V-shaped one more like on a fishtail parka (or Officer K's coat, I think? Unless I'm remembering it wrong), since there definitely doesn't look to be a vertical back seam.

 

[smithjohnj]

The height of the back vent on the dress uniform is my best evidence of the jacket having a peplum where that seam is covered or hidden by the belt. I believe the vent separation goes all the way up to the seam under the belt.

 

[Jameel Ur]

As far as I understand, Paul's uniform jacket has plated/peplum back ( plated slit) that goes till the waist line.
And Lego's uniform jacket has open slit on back.
Though both jackets are belong to one uniform but there are few differences.

I haven't check their trench coats yet.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Paul's cuff has decoration stitches at edge of cuff along with piping.
And Lego's jacket cuff has decoration stitching on top of cuff with golden piping.

 

[Jameel Ur]

Please avoid my above post regarding the back slit.
There is open slit in Paul's jacket too, in this image center vertical line on back clearly shown so IMO, there won't be horizontal waistline.

 

[Jameel Ur]

I just checked the trench coat vents, IMO there is no vent/slit on back in Paul's coat neither Leto's coat.

 

[Cameron1138]

I did initially wonder if there could've been a center back pleat on the uniform jacket, but I think it's just a regular seam. That image of Paul walking is great, probably the clearest look we've gotten of the back of the uniform. Agreed about the trench coat, that image with Leto walking pretty much seals the deal I think. Still bothers me about whether Paul's coat has a seam across the back shoulder... the image you posted of him from behind comes from the same scene as the ones I posted where it looks like there's a seam, and here it looks like there isn't, so maybe it was just a crease in the fabric resulting from it being pulled tight across his back because of how he was posed?

 

[smithjohnj]

I think we have agreement there is NO back vent for the trench coat. I finally got to look at the 4K Blu ray and the pictures shared from them walking in the graveyard at about 14:25 show a great deal of back and forth sway of the coat without any split or background.