Deagostini Falcon. Anyone seen this?

[Hansyt]

Just sending Darbyvet a thank you for posting that info! Just ordered all the rest of my binders!

 

[DaveG]

The Power of the Force is strong with me.....j/K!

Call it a hunch. I mean there is a lot of customers in this site, makes sense.

They have yet not responded to my email. Guess they will soon. In the meantime I need a grill.....that I paid for.:cry

I'd be willing to bet the number of Shapeways customers on the RPF is a drop in the bucket of their overall customer base and they would have little interest in monitoring our thread.

and while their prices are (reasonably) low and the quality (mostly) ok, their customer service sucks. I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for a reply to your email

 

[Tom1971]

Here is a comparison of the damage on the Deago that Zorg shared next to the real deal just for giggles. If you ever look at the MR battle damage it's pretty much identical to the Deago. It personally doesn't bother me. I'm just going to cover up what I don't like with putty anyway and do it up the way I like.
View attachment 503097View attachment 503098

Looking at this Deago did a pretty good job. On the actual model it's not their best battle damage. Looks more like an oil spill

 

[Scarecrow Joe]

I'd be willing to bet the number of Shapeways customers on the RPF is a drop in the bucket of their overall customer base and they would have little interest in monitoring our thread.

and while their prices are (reasonably) low and the quality (mostly) ok, their customer service sucks. I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for a reply to your email

I just got a reply this morning, they asked for a pic of the package label to process my current issue. I email them back with the pic and I'm waiting for the answer so, I didn't need to hold my breath. The response was very friendly and helpful. When the whole thing is finished I can make up my mind about the quality of their customer service. Why their customer service sucks? After you post something like that I would have expected a reason why.....and you don't need to hold your breath to do so. Also with the success this Falcon is having I would venture to say that the Deago bits they make are one of the more sold items right now. Having a look at this thread once in a while would be a logical thing to do...it costs nothing to do so, why not do it?

 

[knnyjay]

I too would be interested to see how people are doing this. I'm a little nervous that after I install the new floor that I'm losing one of my mounting points to the frame on the bottom. I guess I'll tackle that when the time comes.

I just bought the whole floor designed by Envisaged, as it was just too much to cut and than regretting later :facepalm
https://www.shapeways.com/product/Z58ESURY9/floor-panel?li=shop-results&optionId=56088392
https://www.shapeways.com/product/AWJ4SGSNX/access-panels-2mm-pair?li=shop-results&optionId=56088534

As seen here

 

[Trimotor]

Any photos to show us how it came out?

Sure, here are some photographs of the cut floor that I took today. I will be ordering the floor from Tony's Shapeways store this week so I can take a couple of pictures as I fit it and post them here if you wish.

The greeblie bay areas next to the corridor and navigator station are my jobs for today. I have also been working on the pipe bay,the supports look squint here as none of them are glued yet.


A close up of the corner, I used a file to recess this part but kept it for additional support.


An overhead view of the cut area. I believe that you need to keep the small strips of panel at the electronics bay side and the bottom as they are not included in Tony's complete floor (Apologies to Tony if I am incorrect). You can see where I started last night to cut this away as I made the decision that I will order the individual loose floor pieces and cut them to fit. Finishing cutting them out is also one of today's jobs.


A close up showing the drilling process to create a hole for the saw blade.


Finally, a picture of the xacto saw blades I was talking about.


What I will be ordering;
1 of http://www.shapeways.com/product/HU...w-pits-weld?li=shop-results&optionId=56439519 (I will cut out the rear grille myself.)
1 of http://www.shapeways.com/product/6S...pits-grille?li=shop-results&optionId=55988259
1 of http://www.shapeways.com/product/FM...hall-grille?li=shop-results&optionId=55991804 (To cut to size for the bottom and right sides of the floor.)

 

[Trimotor]

They are certainly a good start. With a little work they would come out very good and more than that you would be having fun while doing it. This is a kit to be built, its not an already made replica. Im starting to think that some here would do better just waiting for someone else to build it and then just buy it!

This is not a personal attack on anyone, but one reason I just decided to not post much here is because this excessive, senseless critics plaguing this thread. This is suppose to be a fun experience, not a stressful, obsessive, dreadful one. If the kit is not up to your expectations then just cancel the subscription, its that simple.

You can flame me as much as you wish but I just needed to put this here to try and put things in perspective.

Hell, the MPC didnt had anything in that area and I just to create them the best I could! They came out acceptable since replicating the EXACT marks from the original replice would be almost impossible.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8584/15994944494_56b78c1f7a_b.jpg20150222_182939 by nenekinkin, on Flickr

Just have fun guys.

I think you put your point very well and I totally agree. I tried to offer a balanced opinion on Zorg's original post before editing, that it is indeed not "Indistinguishable from the filming miniature", and they could have done better, but that it was not by any means a fatal flaw, nor a difficult fix (Other than taking a good deal of time) . I would also add for balance that where the mistakes have been more prominent and less easy to fix (Nosecone, TP-01 and 03) DeAgo have decided to improve them and re-issue free of charge.

I would say that the updated post "Do you think these are acceptable blast marks?" is unhelpful, as that is very much down to the opinion of each of us as an individual rather than a direct comparison of the DeAgo to the ILM original. I won't be cancelling my subscription because of this. So to paraphrase, are they accurate? No. This is inarguable. Are they acceptable to me? Yes. This will be different from person to person.

Finally, anyone who is expecting this to be identical to the real deal has an unrealistic expectation. Same goes for anyone expecting the MR Falcon being identical to the real model. If you want something that close you will have to scratchbuild using the same materials and techniques as the ILM model makers.

 

[kontherun]

Some of the damage on the real model are a bit too rough imo. Works great for a camera but not so well for the eye. I'm going for an interpretation that stays true to the intentions of the original model but looks good in real life.

 

[Trimotor]

Some of the damage on the real model are a bit too rough imo. Works great for a camera but not so well for the eye. I'm going for an interpretation that stays true to the intentions of the original model but looks good in real life.

I agree, the model is certainly not what you could call museum quality. But the genius of the ILM team was that they could build the model to a tight timescale and to the budget they had.

I remember reading an article about a dentist in Hawaii (If I remember correctly) who built a P-51D Mustang from scratch in brass (Using his dental tools!!!) replicating everything in the actual aircraft perfectly. The model was stunning, but of course took many years to complete. Guess how much that would cost you! It's two different worlds. Link - http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/park.htm

 

[Aegis159]

Yeah I got my binder... it's not too bad and I kinda like how it works... it's a little weird to figure out, but those little pegs go in the top and bottom holes and hole the mags in place in the center of the issue where the staples are. The nice thing about it is that it allows you to look thru the mags individually without having to pull each issue out of a sleeve.

Ok so the binder on the DeAgostini site IS a mockup and they kept the binder design from the UK. That's good to know, thanks!

 

[DaveG]

I'm going to wait until I've received the entire subscription and then have all the issues bound into a hard backed book like libraries do. The cost is only around $60.

 

[Aegis159]

i forgot about that dent on the cockpit tube!

I know why the damage looks the way it does. It's a drawback from using the scanning tech they used. I've seen it before. Ragged, irregular surfaces aren't read very well so the software extrapolates. In this case they didn't go back and adjust it as MR did on their masters. The damage is in the correct areas but obviously not the appropriate shapes or degree of severity.
For the beginners repainting the areas can make a world of difference and make it look closer to the actual filming miniature. For more advanced modelers being able to adjust the damage isn't any more difficult than filling seam lines. It's not ideal for those looking for the best replica straight from the box, but it also helps those who are looking at this as a model kit rather than just a replica and want to be able to customize it to their liking. It lets them know where the damage should be and they can go from there.
It might also be a compromise from casting the pieces since the outer hull appears to be an injection-molded ABS.

Either way I look at it as a relative compromise.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm going to wait until I've received the entire subscription and then have all the issues bound into a hard backed book like libraries do. The cost is only around $60.

That's actually a good idea! Hmmm.... might have to get out my bookbinding tools in a couple years when I have all of the issues as well! LOL why didn't I think of that!

 

[kokkari]

I keep seeing videos of guys screwing the hull plating on. Can anyone confirm that Deago has given the go ahead to start permanently attaching these in recent issues? I'm up to #20 and have not seen anything about screwing them in, just test fitting. Are these guys just getting ahead of themselves? Can anyone that is up to issue 27 or 28 confirm either way? I have no intention of screwing my plates on until I know I will not have to remove them because of potential threading problems of the self tapping screws.

 

[Necronaut]

The first few issues made it pretty clear that the plastic might thread out if the self tapping screws were screwed in and out too many times. However, I'm sure we'll find a fix for this if it happens. Maybe a thin piece of Plastruct tube glued in using a weld action solvent cement. I think Tenax, Plastic Magic, or other MEK solvent plastic cements will work just fine for this. Or maybe sprinkle a few plastic shavings in the screw hole, then swirl a little solvent cement inside the hole?

 

[mythshaker]

I keep seeing videos of guys screwing the hull plating on. Can anyone confirm that Deago has given the go ahead to start permanently attaching these in recent issues? I'm up to #20 and have not seen anything about screwing them in, just test fitting. Are these guys just getting ahead of themselves? Can anyone that is up to issue 27 or 28 confirm either way? I have no intention of screwing my plates on until I know I will not have to remove them because of potential threading problems of the self tapping screws.

Me neither. Some people have no patience. I actually don't intend to start on any of the exterior until I have pretty much a complete upper or lower frame, so I have a clue where things will go.

I guess down the line there will be lots of posts with people complaining about striped threads and fixes.

 

[Tom1971]

Mine is screwed together. I think if I have to take it apart it will be fine once and any more maybe a single drop of glue would take care of it, but at most I might need to take it apart one time. Maybe not even that.

I am having a blast building as I am going but nothing is permanent yet.

Tom

 

[kokkari]

The first few issues made it pretty clear that the plastic might thread out if the self tapping screws were screwed in and out too many times. However, I'm sure we'll find a fix for this if it happens. Maybe a thin piece of Plastruct tube glued in using a weld action solvent cement. I think Tenax, Plastic Magic, or other MEK solvent plastic cements will work just fine for this. Or maybe sprinkle a few plastic shavings in the screw hole, then swirl a little solvent cement inside the hole?

Thanks Necronaut! I like your suggestions, but I guess what I'm really asking is if the current issues are giving the go ahead to screw the plates in.

 

[Scarecrow Joe]

So far the recommendation is not to screw anything in yet. They clearly state you can check the pieces for fitment but not to screw them in. The best solution to a problem is not to create it in the first place. Anyone attaching the plates permanently is just asking for trouble and not making any progress at all.

 

[ThrakenSal]

I agree. Screwing the plates on is just asking for something to happen and mess up the whole thing. They fit like puzzle pieces and need to be applied in a certain order as it is and if you put them on wrong and screw them on then that's going to wear the fixing points.

I think Mythshaker has the right idea of waiting until the entire frame is built up and attaching the armor plates then.

 

[Tom1971]

So far the recommendation is not to screw anything in yet. They clearly state you can check the pieces for fitment but not to screw them in. The best solution to a problem is not to create it in the first place. Anyone attaching the plates permanently is just asking for trouble and not making any progress at all.

Oh I see. You go with the manufacturer's opinion on how to assemble their product. Interesting :lol