Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION
- Thread starter PHArchivist
- Start date
I would not use a solvent, you will not be able to control it.
Do you have reference of the trench opening being rectangular? I doubt that the original had rectangular openings just because of all of the trouble and time that would have taken. There are lots of ways to make a tool for rectangular windows. The easiest would be to grind down and X-acto blade to the dimensions you need and use the empire state building parts again. Then you would have a standard handle to use and it would be more comfortable to use for all of these windows.
Do you have reference of the trench opening being rectangular? I doubt that the original had rectangular openings just because of all of the trouble and time that would have taken. There are lots of ways to make a tool for rectangular windows. The easiest would be to grind down and X-acto blade to the dimensions you need and use the empire state building parts again. Then you would have a standard handle to use and it would be more comfortable to use for all of these windows.
PHArchivist
Master Member
Rectangle, or at least oval. There were also lines drawn on the back wall of the trench...
They are deff. holes drilled close to create an oval. I would start drilling' holes. you can get them oval by working the bit sideways slightly. No suggestion for rectangles as I really can't see how much room you have to work. Is the trench area all acrylic sheet?
PHArchivist
Master Member
Yeah the back wall is a strip of clear acrylic. With a boat load of paint. The paint on there is probably half-a-mil thick; was hard to get light-proof.
Tried drilling two holes as close as I can, but more often than not, the bit slips into the first one when trying to do the second. Not to mention that it doubles the amount holes, and triples the amount of time due to hogging out the center spine between the two. Also, if the second hole is just and RCH above or below the first, then the resulting oval becomes slanted.
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Vacformedhero
Sr Member
PHArchivist
Master Member
Trudging along...
Vacformedhero
Sr Member
Stunning, it's one of those pieces that everyone thinks they know how much work it takes, but I bet we all underestimate how much by half.....once done it will be a rare beast as well, you can charge admittance to see it 
PHArchivist
Master Member
If I were to do it again, that's totally how I'd do it... If there was an easy and effective way to remove the paint without introducing new light leaks, I'd do it.
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It sounds like you have a good thickness of paint built up in the trench. If having to be forced to create rectangular openings in the trench, i.e. being asked by a client to do so, I would try the following ;
Create a sheet metal guide. Very thin brass, .020 or so. Drill and shape about 6 to 10 rectangles, or more, at different levels, i.e decks. The height of the brass guide should be much shorter than the trench is. This will allow you to raise and lower the guide to vary the positions of the hangars. To keep the openings level, use different thicknesses of styrene strips to rest the guide on. Pre-bend the styrene strips to lay flat against the rear trench wall. Make sure you clean up the back side of the plate of any burrs so as not the scratch the primer as you move the plate down to the next position.
Using an old x-acto blade, grind it down to fit into the rectangles in the plate. Scrape away..... Tedious, but easier than drilling, IMHO.
Experiment on a primed pic of acrylic, should work. These scraped openings will not be as bright as the drilled holes, but I cannot think of another way to remove the primer precisely and in an organized pattern.
Create a sheet metal guide. Very thin brass, .020 or so. Drill and shape about 6 to 10 rectangles, or more, at different levels, i.e decks. The height of the brass guide should be much shorter than the trench is. This will allow you to raise and lower the guide to vary the positions of the hangars. To keep the openings level, use different thicknesses of styrene strips to rest the guide on. Pre-bend the styrene strips to lay flat against the rear trench wall. Make sure you clean up the back side of the plate of any burrs so as not the scratch the primer as you move the plate down to the next position.
Using an old x-acto blade, grind it down to fit into the rectangles in the plate. Scrape away..... Tedious, but easier than drilling, IMHO.
Experiment on a primed pic of acrylic, should work. These scraped openings will not be as bright as the drilled holes, but I cannot think of another way to remove the primer precisely and in an organized pattern.
PHArchivist
Master Member
Been alittle side-tracked lately with some home projects, holiday entertaining, etc. Don't let me wander!
PHArchivist
Master Member
Gonna try to get back to it this weekend. But have to finish a flooring project in my son's room first...
PHArchivist
Master Member
Will try to get on it a bit today. have arthroscopic knee surgery tomorrow, so will be on the couch most of next week, but then have another week off after that.
PHArchivist
Master Member
Good luck for the knee surgery and quick recovery
Thanks bro! Didn't make it to the model today, but hopefully after next week I can.
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