cavx
Master Member
They sound awesome I hope you make them
Sounds good.
Still making further mods to the patterns and playing with this mesh - which I really like BTW, so yeah this stuff in black would rock!
Black/Red Nike Mag Project
- Thread starter Taff83
- Start date
Sounds good.
Still making further mods to the patterns and playing with this mesh - which I really like BTW, so yeah this stuff in black would rock!
Taff83
Sr Member
I made up the straps, el panel soldered to copper tape (1xpos,1xneg) slit in the back of strap so two elec wire can be soldered, that will then be wired up into the inside fabric.
The buckles are a Schwartz grey, it's almost black but depending on how the light hits it can look lighter/darker.
The buckles are a Schwartz grey, it's almost black but depending on how the light hits it can look lighter/darker.
airair
Sr Member
these are looking awesome taff!
:love
whats the wiring method you are doing?
is it the same as jedifyfe's wiring diagram?
i can't remember what someone else said on the kncckoff thread, that you can power the LED's with a single resistor instead of three?
can anyone point me to whats the best way to do the wiring?
wiring is not my speciality, and I understand that Lukebryncz and Jedifyfe did the same type of wiring setup involving the 12v inverter, with 3 resistors to the rows of LEDs
if you guys have any tips for the single resistor method, feel free to share.
Because i don't have a clue about resistors!
seriously though, these are looking great. should look perfect once you get the uppers on.
:love
whats the wiring method you are doing?
is it the same as jedifyfe's wiring diagram?
i can't remember what someone else said on the kncckoff thread, that you can power the LED's with a single resistor instead of three?
can anyone point me to whats the best way to do the wiring?
wiring is not my speciality, and I understand that Lukebryncz and Jedifyfe did the same type of wiring setup involving the 12v inverter, with 3 resistors to the rows of LEDs
if you guys have any tips for the single resistor method, feel free to share.
Because i don't have a clue about resistors!
seriously though, these are looking great. should look perfect once you get the uppers on.
Taff83
Sr Member
Thanks Airair! As far as I know I am the only one using one resistor for my 12x3mm 12v superbright LEDs. My resistor is on the last row of red leds that way it is divided into 3 (so 33.33ohms to each row of leds)
I keep my brightness that way and i single the leds out by adding foam covers and I don't have extra resistors taking up already limited room.
My diagram is exactly the same as the one jedifyfe posted, only thing I changed was less resistors.
Here is a reverse pic I just took of my heel cup LEDs, this displays the single 100ohm resistor
I keep my brightness that way and i single the leds out by adding foam covers and I don't have extra resistors taking up already limited room.
My diagram is exactly the same as the one jedifyfe posted, only thing I changed was less resistors.
Here is a reverse pic I just took of my heel cup LEDs, this displays the single 100ohm resistor
MRBATHINGAPE
Well-Known Member
cavx
Master Member
That solder plate is a neat idea and keeps the LEDs in place.
AFAIK, LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) don't have any resistance in the direction they pass current and an infinite amount of resistance the other way. So essentially, without resistance, the circuit is a short.
You should be able to wire them in series and or parallel without issue.
AFAIK, LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) don't have any resistance in the direction they pass current and an infinite amount of resistance the other way. So essentially, without resistance, the circuit is a short.
You should be able to wire them in series and or parallel without issue.
Taff83
Sr Member
The LEDs are quick to install and solder on the board, I can recommend this to anyone and its thin
Been playing about with a idea with regards to installing the elastic "laces"
Make slits in the foam then leave gaps/slits in the fabric and slide the elastic in.
Should leave a clean finish.
Been playing about with a idea with regards to installing the elastic "laces"
Make slits in the foam then leave gaps/slits in the fabric and slide the elastic in.
Should leave a clean finish.
If you want to be accurate to the 2011 MAGS then the upper should be made out of two layers of foam. But this is a good idea too.
Taff83
Sr Member
I'm trying to make them differently but keep the same look, if I wanted a accurate pair for a start they would not be black lol
I tried a two layer but I had no luck, so hard forming both pieces and getting them to line up perfect.
If I could have two layers of foam I would have trust me
I tried a two layer but I had no luck, so hard forming both pieces and getting them to line up perfect.
If I could have two layers of foam I would have trust me
cavx
Master Member
The only way I can think to get two layers of foam perfectly aligned would be to make one foam shell and them laminated the second to that using the first as a template as you trim it.I'm trying to make them differently but keep the same look, if I wanted a accurate pair for a start they would not be black lol
I tried a two layer but I had no luck, so hard forming both pieces and getting them to line up perfect.
If I could have two layers of foam I would have trust me
Now about this...
This looks cool. So tell me more please. It looks as if you have split your (6mm?) foam to feed the elastic through? And are the ribs simply more elastic?
Taff83
Sr Member
Yep yep and yep!
I will use black elastic that is 12mm thickness, in the pic is a more rigid elastic that is 13mm.
I do it so its 1mm thinner so the installation process is easier with regards to the slits, when I get my uppers back next Tuesday from the seamstress I will then get a exacto knife and cut the slits for the elastic to go through.
This is how my uppers looked before sending them away to get sewn.
I will use black elastic that is 12mm thickness, in the pic is a more rigid elastic that is 13mm.
I do it so its 1mm thinner so the installation process is easier with regards to the slits, when I get my uppers back next Tuesday from the seamstress I will then get a exacto knife and cut the slits for the elastic to go through.
This is how my uppers looked before sending them away to get sewn.
cavx
Master Member
Awesome stuff.
More questions:
Q1. Will the seamstress sew through the foam as well as the cloth?
Q2. How and when will you attach the tongue?
Q3. Are you having an innersole as I have done?
Q4. How will you attach the upper to the sole?
I have also been thinking about that little wedge piece we cut out from the lace section. Whilst it looks ugly in place and needs to go when I cut the pattern out. I wish now that I had left it in, just cutting the slits on the sides to the toe box to give something solid to attach the tongue to, rather than sewing it to the clean toe as I did with the leather MAGs I did.
When I was doing my cloth over foam MAGs, I made the tongues to have a huge spade ends that would be stitched to the seam of the clean toe. This way it would not leave visible stitching and would also reinforce the toe box.
Of course this means extra layers of material and possible heat build up. With the mesh shoes I am working on, the goal I want to shoot fort is to keep the shoe both as light and "breathable" as possible, so am now forced to re-think something new for this.
Part of me is wanting to add a lace cover like I saw on a motor bike boot once and not have a 'tongue' at all. Another part of me wants to do an elasticized bridge that laces go over. Not sure.
Adding the cuff will also present some new challenges and I might have to suck it up when it come to the cuff and that stitch seam I avoided on the leather pair. The Ankle Strap will cover it though, so not as big a deal.
More questions:
Q1. Will the seamstress sew through the foam as well as the cloth?
Q2. How and when will you attach the tongue?
Q3. Are you having an innersole as I have done?
Q4. How will you attach the upper to the sole?
I have also been thinking about that little wedge piece we cut out from the lace section. Whilst it looks ugly in place and needs to go when I cut the pattern out. I wish now that I had left it in, just cutting the slits on the sides to the toe box to give something solid to attach the tongue to, rather than sewing it to the clean toe as I did with the leather MAGs I did.
When I was doing my cloth over foam MAGs, I made the tongues to have a huge spade ends that would be stitched to the seam of the clean toe. This way it would not leave visible stitching and would also reinforce the toe box.
Of course this means extra layers of material and possible heat build up. With the mesh shoes I am working on, the goal I want to shoot fort is to keep the shoe both as light and "breathable" as possible, so am now forced to re-think something new for this.
Part of me is wanting to add a lace cover like I saw on a motor bike boot once and not have a 'tongue' at all. Another part of me wants to do an elasticized bridge that laces go over. Not sure.
Adding the cuff will also present some new challenges and I might have to suck it up when it come to the cuff and that stitch seam I avoided on the leather pair. The Ankle Strap will cover it though, so not as big a deal.
Taff83
Sr Member
Q1. Will the seamstress sew through the foam as well as the cloth?
A1. No the foam will be inserted once the fabric is turned inside out, I will then insert the foam (slightly tacky with adhesive spray glue) so basically it will be like putting a sock on. *note- the bottom and where the two pieces of the fabric will meet won't be sewn.
When the foam is inserted I will then hand stitch the outside fabric together so it's all one piece.(I will post plenty of pics as they will help explain this better)
Q2. How and when will you attach the tongue?
A2. The tongue will be hand sewn at the bottom end to the inner fabric only (also gorilla glued for extra strength and flexibility, then half way up the tongue on the inside there will be a single piece of 13mm rigid elastic from side to side stuck down to the inner fabric that won't be seen but will keep it in place, whether this will be stuck to the tongue or free floating is yet to be decided but that will be resolved when I get there
Q3. Are you having an innersole as I have done?
A3. As I am awaiting the v2 soles for my fabric I will be working out exactly where it needs to be stuck down following the curvature on the inside sole shape then I will copy out the shape and cut some 3mm foam to add to the bottom of my upper, I might however leave it without and just use a craft foam sheet as the base and then a insert sole on top.
Q4. How will you attach the upper to the sole?
A4. I will be taking them to a cobbler shoe maker to attach, I will let you know how he does it
I hope that was all clear as I have a bad habit of blurping out from my head.
Oh while I await anxiously for my uppers to come back I will start my hoverboard :-D
A1. No the foam will be inserted once the fabric is turned inside out, I will then insert the foam (slightly tacky with adhesive spray glue) so basically it will be like putting a sock on. *note- the bottom and where the two pieces of the fabric will meet won't be sewn.
When the foam is inserted I will then hand stitch the outside fabric together so it's all one piece.(I will post plenty of pics as they will help explain this better)
Q2. How and when will you attach the tongue?
A2. The tongue will be hand sewn at the bottom end to the inner fabric only (also gorilla glued for extra strength and flexibility, then half way up the tongue on the inside there will be a single piece of 13mm rigid elastic from side to side stuck down to the inner fabric that won't be seen but will keep it in place, whether this will be stuck to the tongue or free floating is yet to be decided but that will be resolved when I get there
Q3. Are you having an innersole as I have done?
A3. As I am awaiting the v2 soles for my fabric I will be working out exactly where it needs to be stuck down following the curvature on the inside sole shape then I will copy out the shape and cut some 3mm foam to add to the bottom of my upper, I might however leave it without and just use a craft foam sheet as the base and then a insert sole on top.
Q4. How will you attach the upper to the sole?
A4. I will be taking them to a cobbler shoe maker to attach, I will let you know how he does it
I hope that was all clear as I have a bad habit of blurping out from my head.
Oh while I await anxiously for my uppers to come back I will start my hoverboard :-D
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Taff83
Sr Member
Some pics of my heel cups so far..
1) Plastic bonding primer
2) Schwartz grey coat(light spray enough to cover surface)
3) Applied some masking tape around lettering (I will do the detail texture afterwards when I can control it better without tape in the way)
4) Stone finish spray paint, 1 hour set time for first coat as pictured)
5) Waited for 1st to dry and then applied a thin 2nd coat(as pictured)
6) a coat of Schwartz grey
7) Remove mask tape and added finer detailed texture with puffy paint around letters then Schwartz grey to cover.
8)Apply 2nd session of masking tape to cover letters again.
9)Paint splatter, new technique will update with progress but will consist of a pin, water paint and thin plastic card.. Didn't work so used a flat head paint brush roughly 1/4" thick, got acrylic paint, small amount of water(20degree's) mixed it and then removed excess paint from brush, held brush really close almost touching the heel cup and with my finger nail flicked the back of the brush head. Any "drops" I used s straw and blew in different directions. When doing this constantly rotate the heel cup while flicking paint, gives it a better look I have found.
10) remove masking tape
11) Paint lettering.
I hope these steps and info is helpful
1) Plastic bonding primer
2) Schwartz grey coat(light spray enough to cover surface)
3) Applied some masking tape around lettering (I will do the detail texture afterwards when I can control it better without tape in the way)
4) Stone finish spray paint, 1 hour set time for first coat as pictured)
5) Waited for 1st to dry and then applied a thin 2nd coat(as pictured)
6) a coat of Schwartz grey
7) Remove mask tape and added finer detailed texture with puffy paint around letters then Schwartz grey to cover.
8)Apply 2nd session of masking tape to cover letters again.
9)Paint splatter, new technique will update with progress but will consist of a pin, water paint and thin plastic card.. Didn't work so used a flat head paint brush roughly 1/4" thick, got acrylic paint, small amount of water(20degree's) mixed it and then removed excess paint from brush, held brush really close almost touching the heel cup and with my finger nail flicked the back of the brush head. Any "drops" I used s straw and blew in different directions. When doing this constantly rotate the heel cup while flicking paint, gives it a better look I have found.
10) remove masking tape
11) Paint lettering.
I hope these steps and info is helpful
Last edited:
cavx
Master Member
All made sense to me, thanks. I am sure I can think of many questions to ask your opinion on.
Some pics of my heel cups so far..
1) Plastic bonding primer
2) Schwartz grey coat(light spray enough to cover surface)
3) Applied some masking tape around lettering (I will do the detail texture afterwards when I can control it better without tape in the way)
4) Stone finish spray paint, 1 hour set time for first coat as pictured)
5) Waited for 1st to dry and then applied a thin 2nd coat(as pictured)
6) Tomorrow just to apply a Schwartz grey(T.B.A)
7) Remove mask tape and add finer detailed texture with puffy paint around letters then Schwartz grey to cover(T.B.A)
8)Apply 2nd session of masking tape to cover letters again.
9)Paint splatter, new technique will update with progress but will consist of a pin, water paint and thin plastic card (T.B.A)
10) remove masking tape(T.B.A)
11) Paint lettering(T.B.A)
I hope these steps and info is helpful
Note I will amend this post tomorrow with more pics and step updates.
These Heel Cups will rock.
That paint I used for my splatter was actually water based. The cool part being - easy to clean off any areas not meant to have paint on them. Once dry, you need to more than water to get it off, but it doesn't seem to scrape off easy either.
Taff83
Sr Member
Thanks for your positive feedback again Cavx, these heel cups have been a nightmare to prime but their starting to take shape.
Ye was a safety issue to think about using the water paint as you mentioned can be corrected, my plan will be to run the paint through holes on plastic and use circular motions about 2ft above the selected part(e.g soles/cups.)
If it doesn't work then a hair dryer hooked in a forearms length away and as the paint drips through the wind catches it and it is then applied to the part.
All sounds a bit complex but I am after a easy consistent finish.
Had to stop on the hoverboard was getting far too boring haha, a little a day I think for that project
cavx
Master Member
Do you still have your V1s?
I would recommend tearing them down and stealing that innersole so you can make the proper shaped part for your new uppers. The outer sole shape may change for the V2s, but I bet the innersole is the same shape.
This is one point I went wrong with when I did my leather uppers. The V1 PVC uppers were still in one piece and I made my own innersole (long story) and they didn't quite sit the first time. So then came trimming and re-sewing and for what? When I could have just used the actual part from the shoes these new uppers where going on. Anyway, I bet my mesh uppers would fit perfect on the V1 soles that leather uppers are on. I should tear them down and soon...
I would recommend tearing them down and stealing that innersole so you can make the proper shaped part for your new uppers. The outer sole shape may change for the V2s, but I bet the innersole is the same shape.
This is one point I went wrong with when I did my leather uppers. The V1 PVC uppers were still in one piece and I made my own innersole (long story) and they didn't quite sit the first time. So then came trimming and re-sewing and for what? When I could have just used the actual part from the shoes these new uppers where going on. Anyway, I bet my mesh uppers would fit perfect on the V1 soles that leather uppers are on. I should tear them down and soon...
Taff83
Sr Member
The inner sole you are on about the white nike insert sole that you can take in and out?
Ye I have two pairs of silver and one pair of blue/black coloured v1's.
I was tempted to use the blue/black shoe as it has a red sole but I am doubtful on how much light it will let through.
Do you think I could take the clear soles off the v2's and put it on the v1's?
Ye I have two pairs of silver and one pair of blue/black coloured v1's.
I was tempted to use the blue/black shoe as it has a red sole but I am doubtful on how much light it will let through.
Do you think I could take the clear soles off the v2's and put it on the v1's?
cavx
Master Member
No the part I am referring to is sewn to the PVC upper. It is made from a woven fabric like you find under chairs.
The red sole is solid like the other colours in the range, so unless you have beamers (that might actualy melt the rubber), it won't pass any light.
No if you want clear sole, you either use the V2s or make a scratch pair as I will be doing. That is what the 2 posts about the clear elastomer in the MAG thread was about.
Taff83
Sr Member
Ah I know the piece you are on about now, I have them in a bag still, thanks for that, that is a massive help to me
With reference to the sole's/mid sole's, I think it's cheaper and quicker for me to strip down a pair of v2's, only takes me 2 hours to be able to afford these shoes, I could be hours/days even weeks making my own pair and as this is my first ever build I want to keep it as easy as possible, my fiancée kinda wants these done ASAP as well so I can help her with the wedding planning.. Why do these shoes have such a impact on my life!
I would hate to make them then they don't turn out as good as the v2 ones as I would have wasted allot of time in the long run
With reference to the sole's/mid sole's, I think it's cheaper and quicker for me to strip down a pair of v2's, only takes me 2 hours to be able to afford these shoes, I could be hours/days even weeks making my own pair and as this is my first ever build I want to keep it as easy as possible, my fiancée kinda wants these done ASAP as well so I can help her with the wedding planning.. Why do these shoes have such a impact on my life!
I would hate to make them then they don't turn out as good as the v2 ones as I would have wasted allot of time in the long run
