I knew those engines were going to be hard going. The actual cones are solid resin so you have to drill them out to get the LEDs in and taper the inners to match the outsides. Not much fun but done. They then appeared to be quite short so I extended them. Then corrected the last three sections so they look a little more like the originals.Couldn't find anything to match the cowls so I ended up sawing copper piping up.That was alot harder than I thought it would be.
The original kit engine rims were then filled in with apoxie sculpt and I cut and drilled the detail in, as close as I could get to the ref. I know the little holes should actually have small points protruding but at this point I've had enough. Maybe later.Much, much later.
But it improves it and once the lighting goes in and on then I feel its worth the effort. Obviously I'm going to coat the inners with reflective tape and the grey undercoat should cut alot of the leaks out.
Other parts in the processes of being corrected.All I can say is thank god for apoxie sculpt. No luck with the part for the back , 1/48th A10s are thin on the ground locally.
Neo, any hobby saw blade will do. Just remember that the teeth wear down and out pretty quickly, so if you want a clean neat cut put a new one in. Never used a bench grinder,sounds a bit heavy for the small parts I use but I bet its a damn sight quicker for copper piping!
The original kit engine rims were then filled in with apoxie sculpt and I cut and drilled the detail in, as close as I could get to the ref. I know the little holes should actually have small points protruding but at this point I've had enough. Maybe later.Much, much later.
But it improves it and once the lighting goes in and on then I feel its worth the effort. Obviously I'm going to coat the inners with reflective tape and the grey undercoat should cut alot of the leaks out.
Other parts in the processes of being corrected.All I can say is thank god for apoxie sculpt. No luck with the part for the back , 1/48th A10s are thin on the ground locally.
Neo, any hobby saw blade will do. Just remember that the teeth wear down and out pretty quickly, so if you want a clean neat cut put a new one in. Never used a bench grinder,sounds a bit heavy for the small parts I use but I bet its a damn sight quicker for copper piping!
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