ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found

After a bit of poking around there IS the spring loaded clip that holds the middle piece in, it was just oxidized solid. I have cleaned it out, properly reassembled it, and now the fir of the entire thing is a bit better. The only problem that I'm having with it now is that the slide seems to be gumming up a bit. I have sanded the slide, the back of the frame, and the hammer, as a real Mauser is left bare on those parts. I have also added oil to the internal parts, and it helps the action, but the slide is providing resistance.
 
Okay... I'm a happy camper here. DEC found a couple pieces left over from the first run -- not enough for a full DL-44 kit, but the bull barrel and recoil booster, as well as a flash hider he hadn't put any holes in yet (which is what I need). So my Merr-Sonn build just took a giant leap forward. :D Now...

The Model 44 has the two disc greeblies on the magazine and that's it. The Power 5, on the other hand, has stuff below those. On the left side, it's a very shallowe raised detail that I can't quite identify:

merrsonn5_zps16d16e07.jpg


And on the right side, one clear planted-on greeblie that I also don't recognize:

merrson2.jpg


...Plus, it looks like the flash hider was held in place for the moldmaking process with something other than the cap screw on the DL-44, as that looks like the hole for it on the right side of the flash hider (which means I'll be mounting mine rotated 90° like that).

I've worked out how much of the bull barrel is exposed, and how long the T-track is. I was slogging back through earlier in the thread, but my eyes were starting to cross. Can someone summarize 1) how y'all fastened your recoil booster to your bull barrel, and 2) how far back from the beginning of the milling should the hole in the flash hider for the cap screw be?

Poking around vintage electronics forums now trying to i.d. that cord along the top. From photo-scaling, the shield is the right size to be the shield of an old DIN connector (I was thrown off at first because I was dumb and forgot there was an intermediate size between the big XLR connectors and the more recent mini-DIN connectors), at as close to the 13.2mm standard as I can glean. And the rest of the body of the plug looks similar to the DIN plugs a quick Google image search turns up. So now I'm trying to find someone who knows of a UK or European manufactured DIN plug of the early '70s that has these particular characteristics... Anyone have any insights or leads that they have found but been unable to follow up?

--Jonah
 
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FINALLY finished my Han ANH blaster build from the original run! It's taken a while but I'm happy! Thanks again to all for making this all possible.
 

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BTW, does anybody have any good ideas as to what to use to fill in the pin holes in the MGC Mauser's slide and trigger? I have sanded my slide and almost finished reshaping the trigger, but I really want to fill it with something before final polishing/bluing occurs. Should I use a putty, some solder/flux, or what? What would stick reasonably well and cover up good?
 
Vanitas said:
BTW, does anybody have any good ideas as to what to use to fill in the pin holes in the MGC Mauser's slide and trigger? I have sanded my slide and almost finished reshaping the trigger, but I really want to fill it with something before final polishing/bluing occurs. Should I use a putty, some solder/flux, or what? What would stick reasonably well and cover up good?
Click to expand...

Why not trying the black JB weld, has got metal fibers in its formula and I think would work great!
Only con would be the long setting time required!
Regards,

Alberto
 
But does JB Weld take bluing? I'll have to reblue the trigger, and my slide will be left bare metal, except the extractor, to match the cantina pics of the DL-44. So the material that will fill the pin holes in the slide will have to be silver and bl3nd in well with the bare slid3, and the trigger will have to be reblued without looking off.
 
I would leave the slider alone or decide to use paint. I don't think there is any putty you could use that would be less visible than a real pin.
You could theoretically replace the pin with a longer one of a softer metal than the slide but which looks the same (even that would be difficult), hammer the ends so they expand and then sand these flush against the slide but after all that work the pin would still be slightly visible ...
Bare metal tarnishes with time, and the metals/putties would tarnish differently.
I would paint the trigger.

I want to mod the slide on my Denix in a similar way. It is too low and there is no extractor, so I am thinking of either laying a bar of aluminium with the extractor cut out on top of it or make the slide narrower and lay a squarish U-bar over it.
But it would be easier if I could find a way to remove the slide, because then I could instead just replace it.
 
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As I was (at one time) a jeweler, I think I will take a set of gravers and outline the extractor on my Denix, then blue or paint around it.
 
You mean you don't know how to remove the slide on a denix? I've done it plenty of times, it's really easy. First, you pull back the slide and then use a pair or needle nosed pliers to pull out the "firing pin" from the open side, back toward the direction of the hammer, once that is out, you pull off the bolt stop piece on the upper reciever, that rectangular shaped part underneath the sight on the right side of the gun. Once that piece is out, you should be able to revove the slide with no hitches, although to reassemble it, you need to push down the spring before you reinstall the bolt stop piece before you push the firing pin back in. Does that make sense?

As for my Mauser, it is a MGC, not a Denix, although I have both. Still, should solder or flux not do the job well enough?
 
Sanded as much as I dared:

20140516_155041.jpg

The barrel/upper receiver has been lightly sanded, and is now soaking in a vat of Krud Kutter to try to remove the last bits of the original finish. I will end up rebluing the entire gun eventually, but I really want to recontour the entire frame to match a real Mauser, like Kpax did on his: kpax4rpf's Library | Photobucket But I don't have the skill or tools to do so. Does anybody have any suggestions as to whom could take on this project for me? Thanks all!
 
^ I'd recommend contacting Scottjua. He's modified MGCs in the way you mentioned. I can attest that his work is top notch and he does do commissions. I don't know what his schedule or wait times are like, but his service was great and his prices were reasonable.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
Vanitas said:
Sanded as much as I dared:

View attachment 326269

The barrel/upper receiver has been lightly sanded, and is now soaking in a vat of Krud Kutter to try to remove the last bits of the original finish. I will end up rebluing the entire gun eventually, but I really want to recontour the entire frame to match a real Mauser, like Kpax did on his: kpax4rpf's Library | Photobucket But I don't have the skill or tools to do so. Does anybody have any suggestions as to whom could take on this project for me? Thanks all!
Click to expand...

The only one I can think of being able to take it would be ScottJua!

Regarding the blueing question obviously Jbweld being black will stay black, unless you paint to match the final color! But about taking sanding and milling it will!

Regards,

Alberto
 
I've talked with Scott in the past before about a Denix conversion, but once I got the MGC that went out the window. I suppose that I could contact him about this as well. ^_^ I always get really happy whenever I look at the trigger, as it's much more accurate then the factory original. And as long as the price is right (No electronics in mine) then I think I'll shoot him up for another project! (The parts will be from the newest run of ANH parts, once I get them, of course.)
 
Vanitas said:
I've talked with Scott in the past before about a Denix conversion, but once I got the MGC that went out the window. I suppose that I could contact him about this as well. ^_^ I always get really happy whenever I look at the trigger, as it's much more accurate then the factory original. And as long as the price is right (No electronics in mine) then I think I'll shoot him up for another project! (The parts will be from the newest run of ANH parts, once I get them, of course.)
Click to expand...

Lol a line is forming on this!:D:lol:D:lol:thumbsup

Regards,

Alberto
 
Vanitas said:
Don't worry, I'm sure that they'll be best friends. XD (Which version is yours going to be BTW?) :lol
Click to expand...

Same as Yours I think, waiting for Valon's D.E.C. affordable ANH kit!:)

But mine's gonna have sound and maybe a real laser coming from the Flash hider!:devil

Regards,

Alberto
 

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