Original Star Wars Star Destroyer - Kits
- Thread starter Flintlock
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Sumatra
Sr Member
OK. I've got the Scharhosrt, so I'm good on that. I just hope the Ticonderoga/Essex isn't the same situation since I bought the Essex.
Also, I took a dead on front shot of the bridge and scaled it to the Scharnhosrt parts and I noticed the Hickory Hardware drawer pulls are too big. Not by much and I'm still going to use them, but the real spheres looked more like 29mm instead of 35mm.
Also, I took a dead on front shot of the bridge and scaled it to the Scharnhosrt parts and I noticed the Hickory Hardware drawer pulls are too big. Not by much and I'm still going to use them, but the real spheres looked more like 29mm instead of 35mm.
Sumatra
Sr Member
I'm loving this thread.How big is the Scharhosrt piece?
Depends on which one you're talking about
I've highlighted 5 of the parts in the below image and took the measurement of one of them. If you want something more specific, let me know.
star-art
Sr Member
There's a little parallax in that image as the domes are slightly farther away from the camera. The outside edge of each dome (the area you perceive as the edge of a circle) is farthest away, so it will appear slightly smaller than it really is in relation to the parts on the face of the bridge that are closer. Perhaps not much, but maybe enough to make a noticeable difference. . .
The amount of difference depends on the length of the lens. A wide angle lens will exaggerate such things the most.
The real trick when measuring from photos is using parts that are the same distance from the camera relative to each other, and making sure the angle relative to the camera is not such that perspective distortion gets in the way.
Hope that helps!
The amount of difference depends on the length of the lens. A wide angle lens will exaggerate such things the most.
The real trick when measuring from photos is using parts that are the same distance from the camera relative to each other, and making sure the angle relative to the camera is not such that perspective distortion gets in the way.
Hope that helps!
Sumatra
Sr Member
Ain't parallax a *****. :lol
So far the front face of the bridge is the only thing I feel pretty good about as far as size goes. I think it's dense enough in detail that once we ID the last couple parts it should be easy enough to at least lay them out and make it look right. Of course that assumes the parts used are exactly like the ones in my possession. What I wouldn't give for 10 minutes with a tape measure and a set of calipers inside the display case.
I was finding that I couldn't get a good side view shot. The SD is angled in the case and there's the TIE on one side and an audio/video display on the other. I did get a few good shots of the underside. I held the camera pretty much on the ground. You can see more of the hanger. I'll post them soon.
BTW, the above shot was taken with a Nikkor 18-70mm lens @ 70mm.
So far the front face of the bridge is the only thing I feel pretty good about as far as size goes. I think it's dense enough in detail that once we ID the last couple parts it should be easy enough to at least lay them out and make it look right. Of course that assumes the parts used are exactly like the ones in my possession. What I wouldn't give for 10 minutes with a tape measure and a set of calipers inside the display case.
I was finding that I couldn't get a good side view shot. The SD is angled in the case and there's the TIE on one side and an audio/video display on the other. I did get a few good shots of the underside. I held the camera pretty much on the ground. You can see more of the hanger. I'll post them soon.
BTW, the above shot was taken with a Nikkor 18-70mm lens @ 70mm.
I already know that the Hickory Hardware knobs are not exactly correct. The faces around the equator are taller than they should be. Diameter wise - don't know.
I did some parts measuring, and I get 8 inches for the width of the bridge, and 2 inches for the height (minus the 0.080 Acrylic on top and bottom). The height at the ends is 1 inch. I will post a pic after this weekend. I actually started building the bridge but I screwed it up when my water-thin CA started dripping all over the place. The very thin nozzle doesn't fit on there too tight, apparently. This weekend I am going to start over and take a pic with parts laid on it.
I did some parts measuring, and I get 8 inches for the width of the bridge, and 2 inches for the height (minus the 0.080 Acrylic on top and bottom). The height at the ends is 1 inch. I will post a pic after this weekend. I actually started building the bridge but I screwed it up when my water-thin CA started dripping all over the place. The very thin nozzle doesn't fit on there too tight, apparently. This weekend I am going to start over and take a pic with parts laid on it.
Sumatra
Sr Member
To be honest, unless someone is comparing the real model with a replica (or they know the ship in every minute detail) I don't think anyone will notice the discrepencies with the sphere's (or most other differences for that matter). I'm just glad you found something that works so well.
I'm not going to start on the bridge until I can get the basic hull built. I want to know I can pull that off before I start on the smaller pieces. :lol I really want to see your's when you get some progress. It'll inspire me to get my butt moving.
I'm not going to start on the bridge until I can get the basic hull built. I want to know I can pull that off before I start on the smaller pieces. :lol I really want to see your's when you get some progress. It'll inspire me to get my butt moving.
That's perfect, thank you!
Knowing that measurement and the lens that you used to take the picture, I can figure out what the size of the knobs is by doing a reconstruction in 3D (let me get back to you).
Knowing that measurement and the lens that you used to take the picture, I can figure out what the size of the knobs is by doing a reconstruction in 3D (let me get back to you).
Depends on which one you're talking about
I've highlighted 5 of the parts in the below image and took the measurement of one of them. If you want something more specific, let me know.
Okay, I think I've got it sorted out. I started with the 49.72mm measurement that Sumatra so kindly provided and worked backwards from there, making sure to locate the sphere the correct distance in space relative from where the Scharhosrt piece would sit:
A closer look at the sphere roughed in for size:
I ended up with a diameter of 29.5715944, but considering things like rounding errors and lens distortion (and that I did this pretty quickly ), I'd call it 30mm.
A closer look at the sphere roughed in for size:
I ended up with a diameter of 29.5715944, but considering things like rounding errors and lens distortion (and that I did this pretty quickly
), I'd call it 30mm.
Okay, I think I've got it sorted out. I started with the 49.72mm measurement that Sumatra so kindly provided and worked backwards from there, making sure to locate the sphere the correct distance in space relative from where the Scharhosrt piece would sit:
A closer look at the sphere roughed in for size:
I ended up with a diameter of 29.5715944, but considering things like rounding errors and lens distortion (and that I did this pretty quickly
Is it possible to use techniques like this to nail down the proportions of the entire ship?
Absolutely, especially if the camera lens information for the high resolution images is available, and we can put together a list of accurate measurements (with a digital caliper preferably) for the larger known kitbashed pieces and other found items. What would be super helpful would be if, in addition to the measurements, I could get high resolution orthographic photographs (lenses higher than 70mm) of some of the larger kit parts sitting on a piece of graph paper (the graph paper will allow me to make sure that the image was taken exactly perpendicular to the piece, and will allow me to remove any distortion or offset camera angle. I can dream, can't I? ). That way, I can build the piece in 3D and apply it to the 3D build for reference.
). That way, I can build the piece in 3D and apply it to the 3D build for reference.
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Sumatra
Sr Member
We're gonna work on it.
For anyone that needs shots of the real model, I've uploaded every shot I have taken the three times I've gone. They're not all great, but I'm not a very good photog. :lol
I've included all of the metadata for people to look at the focal length of each shot. Use the Lens focal length, not the 35mm equivalent length.
http://www.58525.com/sw/exhibit/sd/
For anyone that needs shots of the real model, I've uploaded every shot I have taken the three times I've gone. They're not all great, but I'm not a very good photog. :lol
I've included all of the metadata for people to look at the focal length of each shot. Use the Lens focal length, not the 35mm equivalent length.
http://www.58525.com/sw/exhibit/sd/
Excellent! Anyone else want to contribute a measurement or two? :love The more we get, and the more accurate they are, the more accurate the result will be.
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