First, BIG THANKS to GeneralFrosty who turned my attention to COW and offered PMs after PMs of advice on Indy Gear while admittedly learning himself. He's a great asset here.
Particularly with Wested (please chime in about other vendors), it seems the options are the following. The site is daunting at first, and my eyes are officially crossed from perusing COW for HOURS, but here is my understanding:
I. Off the rack, peg, factory made
1. Raiders of the Lost Ark Jacket
A. Authentic Brown Goatskin
B. Authentic Lamb
C. Washed Goat
D. Soft Goat
3. Last Crucade/Crystal Skull Jacket
A. Authentic Lamb
B. Washed Goat
C. Soft Goat
2. Special Offer Raider's of the Lost Ark Jacket
(While the other two jackets have a slight modification to make them durable and street wearable this is considered a "film jacket" because it is more lightweight).
A. Authentic Lambskin
B. Washed Goat
Now between the differences of material, I see that Washed Goat tends to be more matte and less shiny, some people like it because its the closest to "pre-distressed" that Wested offers. EVERYONE has a different opinion, but some people have claimed the new "soft goat" drapes very SA, and that is the material the COW member, who is thought by many to have the most SA jacket so far from Wested, had his made from.
I am still learning, especially about the differences in style between the Wested ROLA and LC, but I am getting there.
II. Custom
To Wested's ultimate chagrine, members used to be able to provide lists of "specs" about changes they wanted in their jackets. After paying the "custom jacket" fee, Wested would sometimes (for either no additional cost, or some cost depending on the changes) would include design changes in addition to sizing changes (type of zipper, length of color, size of pockets, etc.) It seems now, as Risu stated, that "custom" now simply means two things:
1. Jackets made from this info:
A. Back Length From base of neck to finish In inches
B. Chest: Measuring under the arms round the chest (loose fit). Or alternatively, the size of jacket that fits well, i.e. 42 Regular.
C. Sleeve: Measuring the sleeve length from the shoulder to the cuff or, even better, from the sleeve of a jacket that fits you.
2. Standard cut or "80's cut" (more fitted and slimmer). It should be noted that the Raider's jacket was 80s cut, but Wested apparantly runs their jackets slightly larger to make them a bit more street wearable.
Here is the problem and the purpose of my thread: obviously, unless there is an Indy nut/Indy Gearhead out there that owns one of each that than offer real world comparison shots, finding out the differences between these jackets is no easy task. If you have one of these, please chime in as to size, collar, feel and SA to help others decide! (Especially me :lol)