Prop Painting Nightmare Help Needed

So i've been working on a master sword for my friend's friend birthday and its been nothing but a nightmare and i need some help!

I 3d printed a Master sword and primed it with: Rust-Oleum Automotive primer Filler & Sandable. Which i've seen a lot of people do and then sanded it down to get rid of any seams making it look really nice. I then proceeded to paint the blade silver with Valspar Silver Metallic Enamel spray paint and this is were all my hopes and dreams go out the damn window. After i let it dry for about 5 hours to 8 hours and about 4 layers of spray paint i go to see the finish to make sure everything all right. The moment i put my hand on it it feels smooth to the touch and then i get a hand print on it. And low and behold i was holding one end of the sword's blade to tightly or something and instead of just a white print due to oils or junk on my hands (which i did wash) my actual hand print gets embedded into the blade leaving behind like the lines to my fingers and more ruining the blade. After putting the project on hold for a week i come back to it and sand it all down getting rid of the smudges ect. i give it a second go and this time i try some clear coat from the same brand on the metallic spray paint and... it muddled the shine destroying the color and turning it from a nice silver to a gunky grey. but i trucked on i sanded that down till it was nice and clean again and decided on a different method to seal it that i saw other prop artist used which was wax. After painting it again and even detailing it i apply the wax thinking Finally its gonna be done! the wax i used which i dont know why it did this but it did it stripped the paint from my prop. i was using Johnsons Paste wax stripped of the gold and what i believe to be one layer of the silver. other than that there where areas of my paint where it was clay like and took in any sort of pressure and would leave be hind an indent or imprint.

please help! I need to know how i should seal the paint overall (specifically the silver and gold) and why my paint is all mushy? or puddy like in some areas

Links to all the products i used below:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Valspar-Clear-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-12-oz/3728921

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum...Spray-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-12-oz/3728775

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Valspar-Si...Spray-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-11-oz/3729677 (the gold was also this brand)

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Johnson-16-oz-Floor-Polish/3384826

primed it with: Rust-Oleum Automotive primer Filler & Sandable

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proceeded to paint the blade silver with Valspar Silver Metallic Enamel spray paint

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Well, there's your problem, you're using Rust-Oleum

I frankly refuse to use this brand of paint with the exception of a few colors for very specific projects. Their filler primer takes a few days to really "cure" despite how it may seem. Additionally, Rust-Oleum is inherently not good with other brand paints, even some of their OWN.

Additionally, NEVER apply a clear coat over a silver spray paint, it will always eliminate the shine. There's alternative sprays but most of them will eventually dull out after awhile, handling or not. One paint you could use for the blade is rub and buff, or alternatively you could apply chrome tape w/ some weathering, just like Adam Savage did for a replica hellboy sword he built. I was skeptical about that tape method but he made it look good, and it will obviously retain it's sheen

Regardless, you're going to have to strip it all down and get that rustu-oleum off as much as possible. I've recently switched to using Dupli-color automotive filler primer and regular primer. This stuff is legitimately good to sand after about 30 minutes or so and you can keep working back to back. I'm sure there's better brands.

good to know if you dont mind me asking though what are the alternative sprays?. its going to be a display piece so it wont be handled if all honestly. and just curiosity over all.

AznLife said:

good to know if you dont mind me asking though what are the alternative sprays?. its going to be a display piece so it wont be handled if all honestly. and just curiosity over all.

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I honestly don't use many "chrome" sprays, though if I recall there was a decent krylon one, but I'd probably do a bit more research. I'd be afraid to point you in the wrong direction if there's something better out there.

I've used Rustoleum spray paints for many years with no problems. Their nozzles suck now, but the paint has always worked fine for me. The problem is that you're putting on too many coats of paint and not letting it cure properly. The paint will dry to the touch pretty quickly, but it will take a couple weeks for it to cure (get hard enough to not rub off or fingerprint). The more coats you put on, the longer this takes. The humidity will be a big factor as well. Also, some waxes contain solvents, which will strip your paint. Be careful with those.

I've personally had good experiences with the Rustoleum 2-in-1 Sandable Filler Primer, however, I've NEVER had good luck with any metallic or chrome spray paint. They are extremely delicate to the touch, even after curing for a long time.

If you want a shiny chrome finish, consider using a chrome automotive vinyl wrap: (not my tutorial)
http://kaypikefashion.deviantart.com/art/Cosplay-Metallics-SOLVED-FOREVER-464151191

I personally think that a weathered silver look is much more interesting.
After your gray filler primer is perfect (sprayed and sanded and sanded some more), let it cure then give it a coat of flat black paint.
Then, use grays and silvers to slowly build up the metallic look that you want. Use acrylics and a brush, and a dry-brushing technique to build up the gray and silver. Don't expect a good metal finish with just one color of spray-paint - though, I've had success with metallic paint sprayed into a rag or onto a paper plate then gently wiped onto the flat black coat. Use long straight strokes in the direction of the blade.

matty matt said:

I've used Rustoleum spray paints for many years with no problems. Their nozzles suck now, but the paint has always worked fine for me. The problem is that you're putting on too many coats of paint and not letting it cure properly. The paint will dry to the touch pretty quickly, but it will take a couple weeks for it to cure (get hard enough to not rub off or fingerprint). The more coats you put on, the longer this takes. The humidity will be a big factor as well. Also, some waxes contain solvents, which will strip your paint. Be careful with those.

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This. You have to let it dry and harden completely. When I paint something I'm going to go back and work on, I'll let it set for two days. Otherwise its fingerprint city.