Rogue One Shoretrooper Helmet

Intro

Hi everyone! I'm a long time lurker that has finally decided to post a project that I've been working on. I've never really done a project like this before, and I'm usually guilty of starting something that I never finish. There's a huge stack of Gundam models in my garage that I've never finished painting... It's pretty embarrassing. Not wanting to admit complete defeat in regards to my hobbies, I have a new found resolve to finish a project. I thought that maybe working on something that I'm passionate about would help me to complete the task at hand. I'm a lifelong Star Wars fan that always wanted to work on props, but didn't know where to start. After seeing all of the amazing work here, I decided to give it a shot. This thread will go over what went right, and what went horribly wrong on this journey. I apologize for those that have been doing this for a while, but I will be covering all of the newbie details and lessons I learned along the way. One of the most important things for me personally, is posting my failures. This project has been difficult at times, and I want to show that. I've always had great appreciation for the threads here that prove great work can be the result of seemingly total failure. I hope that I can add something to the journey for those just getting started.

For my first real project I'll be working on a Shoretrooper helmet from Rogue One.



The helmet is one of Jim Tripon's (Jimmiroquai here on the RPF). The helmet is made of fiberglass so it feels very sturdy, and has a weight to it that makes it feel "real". I felt that a helmet that is meant to be dirty, and battle worn would be a good place to start. The idea here is that a helmet that is weathered, could hide most of my rookie mistakes. While in the end that may be somewhat true, I've already hit a few road blocks that made for some interesting challenges.

Prep/Resin

When I received the helmet, it came with the visor, and a ton of bubble wrap (Thanks Jim, my kids loved it!) I noticed almost immediately that the inside was rough fiberglass. This isn't a huge deal, but it would make wearing it without completely padding the inside quite uncomfortable. I tried to get a picture of what it looked like.



I gave the outside of the helmet a light sanding just to smooth it out a bit, and take down some bumps. It soon became clear that I would need to smooth out the inside, so I needed to pick up a few supplies. I picked up some Bondo fiberglass resin, which includes the activator. I'm lucky enough that my Gundam hobby has helped me, in that I already had a lot of the remaining supplies I needed to start. I've never worked with fiberglass before so I did a ton of research before starting.



Please make sure if you're working with this stuff to work in a well ventilated area, and wear a respirator! The stuff has a very pungent odor, and can be a bit overwhelming. Also, it's key to note that the cartridges on a respirator only last for about 40 hours, so be sure to keep track of how long you've had them exposed to oxygen. I remove mine from the mask, and keep them in a ziploc bag with all of the air removed. I also write on the bag how long I wore them each time i use them. I have no idea what kind of chemicals i'll be coming in contact with, so it's better to be safe, than sorry.

Fiberglass resin must be mixed at the proper ratio. If there is too much hardener, it will solidify way too fast to coat the entire helmet. If there is not enough activator, it won't harden, and you'll be left with a sticky mess. It's also a good idea to work in small batches. This way if multiple coats are needed, the stuff in your cup doesn't turn rock hard before you get to use it again. When mixing small amounts use 8 to 10 drops of hardener per ounce of resin. So, after mixing the resin thoroughly, I jumped in and started to coat the inside of the helmet. The end result looked like this.



Looks ok right? Wrong... After all of the preparation I did, the resin was still wet when I went back to check on it almost 10 hours later. If mixed properly, the resin should have began to harden after about 12-15 minutes. Somehow, in my haste, ignorance, or overall inexperience I totally under estimated how much hardener I needed. I believe I only put 10 drops in when I should have put about 22. I mixed just over two ounces of resin, and must have eyeballed it the first time. Seriously, save yourself the trouble and just get out the scale. I didn't, because I had already made several trips to the house to get my supplies. I didn't feel like making one more trip, and it cost me. After about 24 more hours, I decided I needed to try again. I mixed another batch (with the scale) and added just a couple of extra drops of hardener. My thought process here was that a little extra hardener might mix into the wet resin already in the helmet. I coated it, and left it overnight. I'm not sure if it was the most elegant solution, but it worked!

Now with a smooth, and hardened interior, it was time to get to work on the exterior.

Primer/Sanding

Having already given the helmet a light sanding with some 180 grit sand paper, I put on a coat of filler primer that I got at the local hardware store.





This coat serves multiple purposes. It helps to fill any scratches I may have left when sanding it the first time, and also helps to identify any imperfections in the casting. The filler primer has a rough texture to it unlike surface primer, that goes on smooth. I sat under good lighting with a sharpie, some Barry White, an adult beverage and felt up every inch of the helmet. Doing this allows you to feel little bumps, and things you can't see even with the primer coat. Any time I noticed one, I marked it. Some things are also really easy to spot, like this little gem in the corner of the mandible.



That black mark is a hole. It was probably caused while I was sanding it, but I wouldn't have noticed it without the primer. Any spots that were too high, or "bumps" I sanded down. Anything that was too low, or an outright hole was filled with Milliput Superfine White putty.



Milliput is a two part epoxy that you knead together in your hands. Once it has been mixed, it can be molded like clay. You can also use a bit of water to help smooth it out, and shape it. I already had this lying around from some unfinished Gundam models I was working on. I also used a green putty I had lying around on a few spots as well. Why the change? I don't really know, as it was Tuesday. I hate Tuesdays, and couldn't find my Miliput. Once the epoxy was applied, I let it cure overnight. I then sanded the entire helmet with a medium grit sanding block.



This block was rough enough to smooth out the epoxy, but not rough enough to scratch up the already smooth surfaces. The angled edge is also great for the corners.
Visor/Mouth Vents

I decided that this was a good time to start on cutting the visor and the "mouth vents" out. For the visor, I made an outline along the entire area that was to be cut. Doing this gave me an idea of where to stop with the cutting tool so I didn't cut too far. The remaining material could be ground down and smoothed out with the grinding attachment on my Dremel. After marking the visor, I decided that doing the mouth vents first was a good idea. Why? I don't know. Maybe I thought since they are smaller they would somehow be easier? At first I was right. Then I got cocky. I took out the drill, and used the smallest drill bit I had. I made three holes in each vent, leaving a tiny sliver of fiberglass material between each one. My plan was to take out the diamond file kit I had, and file them down to a nice smooth finish. Why do that when I could just bore them out with the drill like some kind of heathen? It would be so much easier right? Getting the diamond files that were just out of arms reach was way too much work. Boy was I wrong...





While flailing about with the drill like Leatherface at the end of Texas Chainsaw, I heard a crack. A piece of the helmet shot off the drill, and nearly hit me in the face. (eye protection, people.) As you can see, in my moment of lazy brilliance disaster struck. Now for some of you, this may seem like nothing. Being a complete novice, this was devastating. I went from angry, to disappointed in my stupidity, to nearly putting the helmet on the pile of unfinished Gundams. Then I started thinking about all of the threads here where people made the best of a bad situation, and I went for the Milliput. after about an hour or so of sculpting, I got it to a satisfactory result. It's by no means perfect, but it's the best I could do.



Next time I'll cover the ins-and-outs of working with Montana Gold spray paint, and how it's way different than anything I've worked with before... In a bad way.

Looking grand man! I look forward to watching your progress . . . I have plenty of models and a few prop that are on my to do list!

I finished my Jimmi helmet and enjoyed wearing it but sold it when I got my Anovos one. I'll be here to help if needed!

Looking grand man! I look forward to watching your progress . . . I have plenty of models and a few prop that are on my to do list!

Click to expand...

Thanks! It's always easy to have grand ideas of starting, and finishing a project. It's a lot more difficult to find the time to actually finish it. It's good to know i'm not the only one!

karmajay said:

I finished my Jimmi helmet and enjoyed wearing it but sold it when I got my Anovos one. I'll be here to help if needed!

Click to expand...

The Anovos really is a great looking helmet, especially since it's made using the screen used prop as a reference. I just couldn't get past that price tag!

Surface Primer/ Undercoat

After the mouth vent debacle, I also cut and sanded the hole for the visor. I did this using the cutting wheel on my Dremel.



I got this kit from the local hardware chain for about $35 US. The kit has everything needed for a project like this. After cutting out the visor, I used the polishing attachment to smooth out the rough areas. Once that was done, I added Milliput to a few areas that I hit with the cutting wheel by mistake. I made sure all of the Milliput was sanded down smooth so the edges wouldn't be visible after the primer coat.



I picked up this basic Valspar primer out of sheer convenience. If I had my preference, I would have used the Tamiya fine surface primer that I've used in the past. It goes on totally smooth, unlike the Valspar which was a bit rough for my liking. Again, I used a respirator any time I was working with chemicals... Even paint.



I painted the bottom areas first to make sure I didn't miss them when I turned it upright.



I tried my best not to go too thick right from the start. By using light coats, the paint will blend and have a much smoother look in the end. Fighting the wind the whole time, I ended up making about three passes with the primer. I waited about 20-25 minutes between each coat.



Once this layer had cured overnight, it was time for the undercoat. After having already bought satin black paint for this layer, I read on another build tread that the helmets were actually a dark brown underneath the Montana Gold Sahara Beige. Oh well, whats another $6 in paint wasted? (My wife has been very forgiving during this project.) I thought that since the prop makers used Montana paint for the topcoat, they might have used a Montana color for the undercoat. Well, I was wrong since it turns out they were actually cast/3D Printed? In a dark brown material. Alas, I needed to replicate this, so I picked up some Montana Gold Dark Brown along with my Sahara Beige.



The weather was not cooperating at this point, So i used my buddy's nearly empty garage as a paint booth. I really thought I was being a genius by using a dehumidifier to remove the moisture from the air, along with a space heater to raise the temperature. I have no way of knowing if it made a difference in the paint, but it certainly seemed dryer, and hotter than the outside temperature. I made sure to turn off both machines before starting to paint. I laid down the first light coat, and everything looked ok.



Then the second and third coat, about 25 minutes apart. Unfortunately the lighting is bad in these shots, sorry for the shoddy quality.





Everything looked ok at first, when I went back the next morning. Then in the daylight I noticed that the brown was almost sand like in texture, and not smooth at all. I ran my hands across the top, and this happened.



The paint was literally coming off like dust in my hand. So maybe my mad scientist trick with the heater didn't work? I had all kinds of ideas in my head about what went wrong. Was it too dusty in the garage, and the paint picked it up in the air? Was it too hot? Too cold? Too dry? I held the can at the usual 6"-8" away from the helmet, so that couldn't have been the problem. Little did I know that none of my assumptions at this point were correct.

Texture/ Final Undercoat Layer

After going through the usual stages of grief, I finally hit acceptance and moved forward. I rubbed all of the gritty paint off with my hand, and was left with a patchy kind-of-dark brown layer. I hit the entire thing with a fine grit sanding block just like the medium grit block pictured above. I made sure not to take too much paint off, as I didn't want to damage the primer layer underneath. Once I had the texture smooth again, I realized that this was the perfect time to add some texture to the helmet. Now that the helmet was somewhat dark brown, I would be able to see the white modeling paste I would be using to add texture. These items can both be found at your local craft store, or at online retailers named after a tropical rain forest.



This is a step I learned from Mr. Paul's How To: Thread on the FISD. Seriously, if it wasn't for his work on this thread I don't think I ever would have finished this project. I'll link to all of the pages I found helpful once i'm all finished with my helmet. Go check his out right now though if you're working on a Shoretrooper.

I tore the sponge into quarters, trying not to make the tear too clean. I wanted rough uneven edges so when applied, the paste didn't look even. I dipped the sponge in the paste, and made sure to wipe most of it off onto a paper towel. I dabbed the paste on while trying to imagine where rust, or grime might have settled on the helmet. I squeezed and crunched the sponge into different shapes while applying to increase the randomness.




The grime should have a layered look, so I let the first pass dry, then went over the helmet again. The goal here is to build up the texture in some areas. I didn't go over exactly the same places as before, but if they overlapped, all the better. Also, when you don't have a helmet stand, just use the container for your blender. Your spouse might look at you like you're crazy, but it totally works. It even makes it look like the lens is installed!




In the end, this is the texture effect I'm looking to achieve. This photo was taken by someone at Celebration back in 2016, and is not mine.



At this point, I'm now ready to for the final dark brown layer before laying down the top coat. I don't want the white of the modeling paste to show through when I weather the final coat, so this step is necessary. This time around, I went the safe route and bought some paint from the hardware store. The last thing I wanted to do was sand down another coat of Montana paint, so I settled on Rustoleum Satin Dark Brown. Again, I go over the entire helmet with light coats about 20 minutes apart.



The texture shows through the dark brown quite nicely, and should be visible through the Sahara Beige topcoat.

Next I'll apply the liquid latex to add some weathering effects, as well as the topcoat. Will I have better luck with the Montana Gold paint this time? We'll see in the next update...

Hi there,here Jimmiroquai and Anovos Side by Side






Anovos left / Jimmiroquai right

looks great

PS I also have a stack of Gundam kits and Star Wars helmet (including Jimmi's shore trooper) needing my attention lol

Thanks for posting those pics! I've actually never seen the helmets side-by-side. There are some obvious differences, but I still think Jim did a pretty good job with limited information available. Question for you, is the texture on the Anovos smooth?

kirova said:

looks great

PS I also have a stack of Gundam kits and Star Wars helmet (including Jimmi's shore trooper) needing my attention lol

Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm just about done with the helmet, and it feels really good to be this close to actually finishing. The whole project has taken me about a month so far. My first two posts were done a bit late in the project. You should get started on that helmet!

Liquid Masking

After getting a solid dark brown layer, I was able to move on to liquid masking.I used the liquid to cover specific areas of the helmet, so that after the topcoat is applied the rubber can be rubbed off. Doing this will expose the dark brown layer, giving the helmet a weathered look. I used a liquid latex that I purchased from the online retailer I spoke of earlier.


This can is quite large, but not very expensive. Unfortunately, unless you intend to do a whole lot of liquid masking, you'll be stuck with a ton of extra material. I used a very fine paint brush to dab the latex onto the edges of the helmet. Just like the modeling paste from before, this is a process that should look random. Overall this took me about an hour and a half to complete.



I wasn't able to take many pictures of the liquid latex while applying it. The latex dries pretty fast, and is nearly invisible when it's dry. I circled an area in the image above to show where I applied some. When I did this, I tried to be cautious about how much I applied since you really can't fix it once the topcoat is applied.

Sahara BeigeTopcoat

Luckily for me, I live near a local non-chain art supply store that stocks nearly all of the Montana line of paints. What's even better, is that it was all on sale for the month of May! I grabbed a can of Sahara Beige 8020, and headed home to get the helmet painted up.



Given the experience I had with the Montana dark brown, I was very cautious about getting the perfect conditions for applying this layer. The weather was nice, there was no wind, and just the right humidity. Overall it was a very mild day, and perfect for painting. I tried to apply the paint as evenly as possible. I'm no spray paint expert, so I just did my best. I applied the first layer by spraying about 6"- 8" away, and waited about 20 minutes before the next coat.



The first coat went on ok, but I started to notice during the second coat that something wasn't right.



The paint layers were blotchy, and the texture was completely wrong. The paint did exactly what it did the last time I applied the Montana dark brown layer. Clearly, I was the problem. It couldn't have been the environment, because the conditions were perfect. It couldn't be the paint, because plenty of others have used it to get great results. My biggest problem was that I didn't know what I was doing wrong. I searched for any advice online, but I wasn't able to find any information about this exact issue. To say I wasn't frustrated at this point would be a lie. Typically I would take this defeat, and move on to something else.

Thankfully, I found the Jimmiroquai shoretrooper Facebook page. I posted a picture, and explained my situation. I was fully prepared to wait a while to get a response, but everyone there came through within an hour! The folks there explained that I had been holding the can way too far away from the helmet. Montana is a low pressure can, that will dry up in the air if it is not applied properly.This left the paint rough, and uneven. When painting with Montana paints, the can must be held much closer to the object you are painting. So after learning what I did wrong, I set out to fix it.



I sanded the entire helmet carefully with some 1000 grit sand paper. I wanted to use something very delicate so that I didn't start taking too much paint off. My goal here was to smooth out the sandy, rough Sahara Beige. Once the paint was at an even layer, the paint still left a texture on the helmet. I was still kind of bummed out that it wouldn't be smooth in the areas that didn't have the texture I applied. It was around this time I read on Mr. Paul's build thread that the screen used helmets actually had a cast iron like texture. I looked at my helmet, and to my surprise is almost exactly what the sanded down Sahara Beige looked like. Having a new found excitement to get finished, I added another layer of modeling paste, I bought another can of the Rustoleum satin dark brown, and did another layer of liquid latex.

It was around this time that I got a good look at the Anovos helmet. The black layer between the Sahara Beige, and the lens of my helmet, is actually supposed to be part of the lens. I made the decision to sand that area as much as possible, and that I would be trying to make this layer look shiny, and smooth. I masked this area off, and got ready for the Sahara Beige... Again.

Sahara Beige, Part 2.

So another week went by, and the weather cleared up. I gave the helmet a pass with the Sahara Beige again, this time holding the can about 2-3 inches away. I again, made even passes, with about 20 minutes between coats.



It worked out great! The coats went on very smooth, and had no trouble with the paint drying in the air. I am now ready to move forward, and finish this project!

Black/Red Details

After getting the topcoat down, I removed the masking tape under the visor. This area should be a shiny black to mimic the continuation of the visor, as this part should be part of the visor. The point of masking it before laying down the Sahara Beige is to keep the thick, rough Sahara Beige from this part of the helmet. I want this area to be as smooth as possible. Unfortunately, I didn't exactly mask it properly.



This isn't really a huge problem, so I just laid down some masking tape across the divide, so it would all even out when I painted it black. At this point, I carefully rubbed all of the liquid latex off of the helmet, exposing the brown layer underneath. I just used my thumb, and occasionally a pair of tweezers for the hard to reach areas.

Full disclosure, I have two kids and don't have a lot of free time. When I have time to work on a project (usually after the kids go to bed), I typically just keep working until I can't stay awake. This means that I sometimes forget to take progress pictures along the way. Having said that, this is the only image I have of the helmet before the black details were painted.

View attachment 736991

This means that I don't have many in progress shots of how I painted the details, but I'll do my best to explain how I did it. I started by masking off any areas I was going to paint black, just before I actually applied the paint. The reason for this is because if the masking tape is left for too long, it will eventually begin to pull away from your object. This is especially true for a helmet like this that has some texture to it. I used a combination of Tamiya Yellow masking tape for the curves, and tight spaces, and Scotch low tack blue tape for the larger areas.



I painted the rear vents, the sides next to the forehead shield, the ear vents, area between the visor and forehead shield, the oval shaped grooves just above the bottom, and mandible notches by hand. These areas are recessed, and don't need a totally smooth layer of paint because of the weathering that will be applied later. Before painting any area black, the acrylic paint was thinned with water to a milky consistency. If the paint is applied without being thinned, it will leave streaks and brush marks. If you're unsure about how to properly thin the paint, just You Tube how to thin paint for miniatures. There are tons of videos out there that will help. The forehead visor brim, the snout, and underside brim (helmet opening) were painted with an airbrush. this paint was also tinned since the paint would not be able to pass trough the airbrush otherwise. These parts can also be painted with a spray can.

The paint used here was a combination of Tamiya acrylic flat black, and Vallejo acrylic flat black. I ran out of the Tamiya, and had to pick up the Vallejo. Personally, I prefer the Tamiya over the Vallejo, as the Vallejo tended to gum up in my airbrush (probably because of user error).



I masked off the edge of the eye bags in preparation to paint the visor portion black. now that the area that I forgot to mask earlier was masked, I could get a clean line to mimic the lens. The area was painted black by hand with a fine point brush. After the two coats were dry, I laid down some un-thinned Tamiya acrylic smoke. This paint is a gloss that has a clear gray tint to it. I only used it because I already had some laying around, but overall I really liked how it turned out.



The area under the snout is not clearly defined on this helmet, but has a clear separation on the screen used helmets. I masked this area, and used a scaler to carve out a clear panel line, to mimic the effect of these being separate parts. Doing this also made it easier to get a clean line when painting.





After all of the black areas were painted, it was time to paint the red decal on the forehead shield. I used a vinyl stencil I purchased from Etsy. I'll link to it at the end of this write up.



The stencil was great, but posed a few problems. The stencil was to be laid over a curved area, which meant that it would not lay flat on one side, if pressed down on another. It was kind of like a really annoying game of whack-a-mole. It was at this point I had to put on my MacGuyver hat. I got some painters tape, and a tooth pick, and made a contraption that freed up my hand to hold down the area in the center of the decal that always pulled up, and wouldn't leave a clean line if painted. It also meant that my finger wouldn't get in the way, preventing smooth layers of paint. The red was laid down using an airbrush, and some Game Color Bloody Red



At this point, the helmet looks almost complete.



If I were going for a "Just deployed to Scarif, and never saw a beach" look, I would be pretty much done. But the troopers in the film were weathered, and looked like they saw a lot of action. The next step will be to mimic that grime.



Weathering

Now that everything was painted the proper color, it was time to make this thing look like it's seen battle. A quick google search will pull up several high res images of screen used helmets. Mr. Paul's thread also has a few great ones to use. The image I used as my primary resource is this one.



The more I looked at it, I realized that the liquid latex weathering look is more "Anovos" than screen used. I say the following as an owner of several Anovos products that I'm happy with. The paint job on their Shoretrooper leaves a lot to be desired. The helmet is hands down the most accurate, but the paint is far from it. I decided to go for a combination of the two since I was already past the point where repainting was just not an option.

I started by masking off the black area under the visor ( it's supposed to be shiny) and the snout. I got some 150 grit sandpaper, and dragged it across the edges of the helmet. Pretty much everywhere I had used the liquid latex. I was incredibly nervous doing this, but i'm glad I did, it looked great! I also folded the sand paper to a sharp edge, and scored random parts of the helmet like the back, the sides, and the mandibles. I also grabbed the scalers used earlier on the snout to score out some lines on the forehead shield. This thing looked like it had seen some serious battles.

I made a wash out of the Vallejo black, and applied it using a paint brush (usually a larger brush than what you would use to paint details) and had plenty of paper towels ready. When making a wash, be sure that the paint is very watery, as you don't want paint that is too thick. You can also find videos on how to properly thin the paint on You Tube.

I had full intention of taking progress pictures during this process, but things progressed quickly. Again, I think it was user error, but that Vallejo paint dried so quick, I had trouble getting to it before it dried. I think the Sahara Beige is so porous, that it just soaked up the black, making it hard to get to before it dried. I applied the wash liberally to the top of the dome, and it started to streak down the sides, and I couldn't get to it fast enough. The paint started to dry in streaks, and I was getting incredibly frustrated. To get this far, and have it ruined at this phase was devastating. My wife was awesome, and talked me off the ledge. She said to get the #0000 grade steel wool that I had purchased, and to try to buff it out. I grabbed a dust mask, and began buffing it out pretty aggressively. She was right as usual, and it started to come back around. I carefully applied the wash to the other areas of the helmet, being sure to dab the wash with the paper towel, and not swipe at it. After it was all said, and done, it looked like this.

The first two pics on the last post should have been these two.

Once I had a couple of layers, I decided to re-visit it the next day. I wasn't totally satisfied with it, so I decided to add some depth with different shaded washes.
View attachment 737050 View attachment 737052

The Agrax Earthshade, and the Nuln Oil really added depth to the weathering, and made the dirt look so much more realistic when paired with the black.

Clear Coat

Once the weathering was done, I hit the entire helmet (minus the snout and chin vents) with a couple coats of satin clear coat. I hit the snout, and chin vents with a matte clear coat.




Chin Vent Replacements

I had an incident where I dropped my chin vents on a concrete floor. Obviously this was not a good thing, so I went to search out replacements. I found a couple of vents on Shapeways that said they were for Jim's bucket. I purchased them, and had them delivered. Unfortunately, they were way too big. I came to find out that I had a revised version of Jim's bucket, and the vents on mine were a bit smaller. I contacted Shapeways (great customer service by the way) they gave me a refund and suggested I contact the designer. I contacted R2DEVO, and worked with him to re-size the vents. He was really easy to work with, and matched them to the exact size of the ones I received from Jim. They are made out of a sturdy, but flexible plastic that won't break as easily. If anyone out there needs some replacements, you can find both versions of the vents for Jim's buckets at Shapeways.

I made the decision to not attach the vents, and snout permanently. I will be using blue sticky tack to hold them on. This way, if I have another accident, they can be easily replaced.



The replacement is on the left. The replacement here is on the right.

Final Result

After a long and winding road of mishaps, and challenges, I can say that I've finally completed a project. Please let me know what you think of the final result, and please give any constructive criticisms as well. This was a learning experience for me, and I hope to carry on anything I learn to the next project.

(I received the vents after I took the final shots so these will show the old vents)





Helpful Links/ Next Project

Here are links to all of the helpful threads, or items purchased specifically related to the Shoretrooper .

Threads:

Mr. Paul's thread
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/top...met-painting-tutorial-by-paul-prentice/page-6

Jimmiroquai's Shoretrooper Armor Build Page (Search for it on Facebook)

Items Purchased:

Decal Stencil:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/483482099/shore-trooper-scarif-trooper-helmet

Vent Replacements:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/QEK4LU8JD/shoretrooper-chin-detail-set-v2?optionId=62758191


For my next project, I'll be working on a Phase II Clonetrooper I got from Flashback Props. I'll post a thread for this as well!




(One last pic of the helmet with the replacement vents, just for good measure)



Thanks to everyone who took the time to read this long, and sometimes long winded thread. I hope you enjoyed it, Cheers!

Nice work! Love the Shoretrooper! I admire your patience in dealing with the paint. I probably would have tossed the thing...

Sean

Thanks! The thought crossed my mind more than once!