Official V3 Nike MAG Replica Thread - V3 Discussion Thread

I received my QC pics early on Saturday morning and accepted them and received an email this morning saying they'd be shipped, I ordered my MAGs on the 25th of March, from talking to David they seem to be trying to give everyone the updated version even if you don't ask, I didn't ask initially and got the Updated V3 QC pics... just think they're having trouble sourcing the updated versions for everybody. If you ask I'm sure he has the originals in stock but there is no discount for them, already tried bartering and he wouldn't budge!
 
There's definitely enough 'real estate' in the V3's to create a look close to the prop shoe if one is brave enough to remove the toe cap. There really isn't that much material available in the prop shoe as it's glued fairly taughtly to the lip of the sole at the front.
If you were to remove the toecap on the V2 & glue the material back in the same position, it would look horrendous with the unrequired excess. Removing the toe cap on the V3 would basically give the look of how the shoe with the 'sock-toe' was created for some of the 'friends & family' RD pairs.
 
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There was 3 methods of toe slim for the V2.

1. Steam toe slim.
2. Trim method used by Jedifyfe.
3. Sock toe method first shown by airair.

I am not sure who did the first steam toe slim but I did the video.

The cut and trim method did not remove the toe cap but did trim the end off the toe to better replicate the 2011 MAG.

I personally did 4 pair of V2 sock toes. No fabric was cut off. The toe box was delaminited and the toe cap removed. The removal of the toe cap created the soggy look of the sock toe.

I think HCs would look weird if their toe box was not cut back. V2s worked fine.
I don't think the V3 will slump enough.
 
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There was 3 methods of toe slim for the V2.

1. Steam toe slim.
2. Trim method used by Jedifyfe.
3. Sock toe method first shown by airair.

I think HCs would look weird if their toe box was not cut back. V2s worked fine.
I don't think the V3 will slump enough.

I don't think they would need to slump much. Once that toe cap is gone it will allow much more flexibility in the fabric, especially if you're wearing them. It will also allow wear the fabric meets the lip of the sole to effectively be at 90 degrees to each other, as there's no toe box to raise it.

The toe box of the V3 is actually still rather high compared to the 2011 RD. This photo of the friends & family pair look great where one has no toe cap & I'd put money on it that there'd be more material to play with on the V3.

IMG_6624.PNG
 
There was 3 methods of toe slim for the V2.

1. Steam toe slim.
2. Trim method used by Jedifyfe.
3. Sock toe method first shown by airair.

I am not sure who did the first steam toe slim but I did the video.

The cut and trim method did not remove the toe cap but did trim the end off the toe to better replicate the 2011 MAG.

I personally did 4 pair of V2 sock toes. No fabric was cut off. The toe box was delaminited and the toe cap removed. The removal of the toe cap created the soggy look of the sock toe.

I think HCs would look weird if their toe box was not cut back. V2s worked fine.
I don't think the V3 will slump enough.

Also there is the way which is to just remove the toe box completely which I did.
 
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I don't think they would need to slump much. Once that toe cap is gone it will allow much more flexibility in the fabric, especially if you're wearing them. It will also allow wear the fabric meets the lip of the sole to effectively be at 90 degrees to each other, as there's no toe box to raise it.

The toe box of the V3 is actually still rather high compared to the 2011 RD. This photo of the friends & family pair look great where one has no toe cap & I'd put money on it that there'd be more material to play with on the V3.

View attachment 720712

I think some acetone near the front area of toebox to unglue it is possible, then just strip out the inside foam layer thats on the toebox and glue back.
Ideally, a shoe last would make it easier when glueing back down.
im trying to find a shoe last with a slightly flatter toe.
 
so
another major problem concerning v3s
how to fix ripped boxes
most boxes rip in front where the lid opens
i tried super glue and it made a difference but the rip is still noticeable,
anybody tried tackling this already?
box.jpg
 
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I don't think they would need to slump much. Once that toe cap is gone it will allow much more flexibility in the fabric, especially if you're wearing them. It will also allow wear the fabric meets the lip of the sole to effectively be at 90 degrees to each other, as there's no toe box to raise it.

The toe box of the V3 is actually still rather high compared to the 2011 RD. This photo of the friends & family pair look great where one has no toe cap & I'd put money on it that there'd be more material to play with on the V3.

View attachment 720712

What I saying is that the toe cap on the V3 is smaller than the V2 or other normal boot toe shoe profiles.

When I sock toed by V2s (RHS) I used the origina glue line as my reference to glue them back down. The toe cap was quite big covering over 50% of the toe box. It does not seem to be the case with the V3s.

That left shoe of the F&F pair kind of what I have now.

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so
another major problem concerning v3s
how to fix ripped boxes
most boxes rip in front where the lid opens
i tried super glue and it made a difference but the rip is still noticeable,
anybody tried tackling this already?
View attachment 720757

Not sure about a post delivery fix for this, but this is exactly what I was emailing them about and I am glad they sent my pair double boxed with no tears.
 

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What I saying is that the toe cap on the V3 is smaller than the V2 or other normal boot toe shoe profiles.

When I sock toed by V2s (RHS) I used the origina glue line as my reference to glue them back down. The toe cap was quite big covering over 50% of the toe box. It does not seem to be the case with the V3s.

That left shoe of the F&F pair kind of what I have now.

The angle on the F&F pair is much flatter than that of your V3. I can't find a clear side profile shot but the material basically meets the sole at a right angle. If the rigid toe-cap foam was removed from the V3 & the material glued back in it's original position, it would be pretty much spot on to this as it would allow the 90 degree angle between the sole edge & upper material & very much highlight the point at which the support in the upper stops.

Out of interest, did you originally steam slim your V2 before opening them up?
 
I ordered 4 ounces of sea glow as well as the blue dye so hopefully that will work better than the salon care creme to lighten the soles. I also have noticed the laces on my V3s are no longer a crisp white. I have tried soap and water,sneaker cleaner and stain remover but they still look dirty. I uploaded a picture of the laces compared to my v2s which are clean. Any ideas on how to whiten them?View attachment 720654

Which type of sneaker cleaner did you use? I find the best to clean up these parts on sneakers is the gel type. My jordan concord XIs has bad yellowing on some of the lace eyelets and the gel worked really well. Just be careful not to get it on the rest of the shoe or you will need to clean it all
20170412_121207.jpg
 
The angle on the F&F pair is much flatter than that of your V3. I can't find a clear side profile shot but the material basically meets the sole at a right angle. If the rigid toe-cap foam was removed from the V3 & the material glued back in it's original position, it would be pretty much spot on to this as it would allow the 90 degree angle between the sole edge & upper material & very much highlight the point at which the support in the upper stops.

Out of interest, did you originally steam slim your V2 before opening them up?

You can see on the F&F left shoe that is a ridge where the foam ends.

The question is - Is the inner layer of the V3 upper foam or a fabric stiffener?

When I did my V2 toes, yes,they were steamed first, but they kind of wrinkled. This changed the shape of the boot toe to a more flatter toe. The problem then was it was still stiff but now flat and pressed against my toe nails. It did loosen up after a few wears. When I did the sock toe, I unpicked the stitching, delaminated the toe box, cut away the toe cap (this turned out to be cloth, not foam) and assembled everything back together using the original glue line as my reference mark. Mine are two layers of cloth where I think airair did his first pair with just a single layer by removing both the toe cap and bottom layer. With the toe cap gone, any pressure on my toe nails was gone as well. The problem I discovered was my toes nails had worn a small hole through the bottom layer. That would be bad on a single layer mod.

attachment.php


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Also there is the way which is to just remove the toe box completely who I did.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Toe box or toe cap? Can you post a picture?
 
Yeah, that's what I was saying about the line caused by the foam support ending in the upper of the shoe. As far as I know it's a rigid foam throughout the shoe. If this section could be removed precisely between the inner & outer layer of material, then it would have pretty much the exact same profile as the F&F pair.

Also, as you did the steam method on your V2s which is what I did on mine also, it dramatically reduces the amount of available spare material due to shrinkage. If this wasn't done prior to your 'sock toe' modification, the upper over the toe would be too baggy if reglued using the original line. More so than the F&F pair.
 
Yeah, that's what I was saying about the line caused by the foam support ending in the upper of the shoe. As far as I know it's a rigid foam throughout the shoe. If this section could be removed precisely between the inner & outer layer of material, then it would have pretty much the exact same profile as the F&F pair.

Also, as you did the steam method on your V2s which is what I did on mine also, it dramatically reduces the amount of available spare material due to shrinkage. If this wasn't done prior to your 'sock toe' modification, the upper over the toe would be too baggy if reglued using the original line. More so than the F&F pair.

Not quite correct. One pair went from "boot toe" to "sock toe" with out ironing it first. Without ironing, it kept the boot toe on the toe cap, but would slump behind that pre-molded shape as there was no reinforcement left in the toe box. I gave it quick hit with an iron (through the wet towel) just to flatten the pre-molded shape.
 
What the heck is this?

V3s are out and yet another "version" comes out. The only thing I am liking is that they fixed the inner wave but so everything else is off. Why China, why?
 

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