Tatooine_Todd
Sr Member
Looking for a good filler for plastic model kits. Bondo seems to be too much of a pain to mix for a small application. Any recommendations?
New a recommendation on filler
- Thread starter Tatooine_Todd
- Start date
Bondo in the tube,
two part plastic epoxy "quick plastic" or
two part wood epoxy "quick wood"
ca gel super glue, etc, etc, etc.
What are you tryng to fill?
two part plastic epoxy "quick plastic" or
two part wood epoxy "quick wood"
ca gel super glue, etc, etc, etc.
What are you tryng to fill?
Tatooine_Todd
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(monster_collector @ Dec 11 2006, 12:08 AM) [snapback]1375205[/snapback]</div>
I have to fill a gap that runs across the front of a tank, between the upper hull and front nose. Additionally, I need to lose some seam lines were 2 halfs came together.
I have to fill a gap that runs across the front of a tank, between the upper hull and front nose. Additionally, I need to lose some seam lines were 2 halfs came together.
Some automotive spot putty should work. You can get it at most auto shops, and it comes in a tube...no mixing required.
Sean
Sean
Clone-extra1
Well-Known Member
I use Auto spot putty for the small gaps, and wood putty filler by Elmers for the larger gaps and the auto putty.
falcondesigns
Well-Known Member
Tamiya Polyester Putty works for me,Its like bondo but works much better.Alexander
Invicta
Sr Member
I like Squadron Green Stuff for plastic kits. But be warned it contains a solvent to bond the filler to the plastic. If a large amount is used it could deform the surrounding surfaces.
**Edit** I once used it to fix lead weights in the nose of a Harrier.....the nose drooped, it looked like Concorde.
**Edit** I once used it to fix lead weights in the nose of a Harrier.....the nose drooped, it looked like Concorde.
Tatooine_Todd
Sr Member
Thanks for the tips..
minieffects
Well-Known Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(monster_collector @ Dec 10 2006, 04:08 PM) [snapback]1375205[/snapback]</div>
I personally use the evercoat glazing putty. It is a two part but its very smooth and easy to apply. You really shouldnt be filling a deep seam with spot putty. Its really made for scratches and small grooves, and it does shrink.
I use the 3m red putty or the blue putty depending on the application.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/a...heme_us_aad_3_0
Evercoat
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=1
I have used the squadron putty and like it, however if I want a different drying time its limited. The 3m has different drying times as indicated by the color.
Hope this helps
minieffects
I personally use the evercoat glazing putty. It is a two part but its very smooth and easy to apply. You really shouldnt be filling a deep seam with spot putty. Its really made for scratches and small grooves, and it does shrink.
I use the 3m red putty or the blue putty depending on the application.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/a...heme_us_aad_3_0
Evercoat
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=1
I have used the squadron putty and like it, however if I want a different drying time its limited. The 3m has different drying times as indicated by the color.
Hope this helps
minieffects
Aves Epoxy Putty is what you need. Non-toxic, smooths with water, sands/files/drills and stays where you put it. Great for small holes OR large.
3
3D-builder
Guest
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(BlindSquirrel @ Dec 12 2006, 04:43 AM) [snapback]1376010[/snapback]</div>
Good call Blind squirrel I sent Monster builder a PM and a detailed description about the product.
I love it you can wet sand this stuff when it's dry to a glass finish.
Regards,
Michael
Good call Blind squirrel I sent Monster builder a PM and a detailed description about the product.
I love it you can wet sand this stuff when it's dry to a glass finish.
Regards,
Michael
Spot is great in thin coats. For thicker applications.
Try this.
http://www.liquitex.com/Products/gelmedmodelingpaste.cfm
Try this.
http://www.liquitex.com/Products/gelmedmodelingpaste.cfm
Tatooine_Todd
Sr Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(3D-builder @ Dec 12 2006, 06:08 AM) [snapback]1376051[/snapback]</div>
Good call Blind squirrel I sent Monster builder a PM and a detailed description about the product.
I love it you can wet sand this stuff when it's dry to a glass finish.
Regards,
Michael
[/b][/quote]
Got the PM. Thanks guys, the info is exactly what I need.
Good call Blind squirrel I sent Monster builder a PM and a detailed description about the product.
I love it you can wet sand this stuff when it's dry to a glass finish.
Regards,
Michael
[/b][/quote]
Got the PM. Thanks guys, the info is exactly what I need.
Spoox
Well-Known Member
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(BlindSquirrel @ Dec 11 2006, 07:43 PM) [snapback]1376010[/snapback]</div>
Where can you buy this or order online? I googled it but I was unable to find it. I have to attach 2 parts of a plastic clone pistol holster together after I dremelled them out and I want it to look seamless. I am new at this so I have no idea what to use for it hehe
Where can you buy this or order online? I googled it but I was unable to find it. I have to attach 2 parts of a plastic clone pistol holster together after I dremelled them out and I want it to look seamless. I am new at this so I have no idea what to use for it hehe
mtpalin
Well-Known Member
CaptCBoard
Well-Known Member
I use baking soda and thin superglue. Just put the baking soda in the gap, add a drop or two (or three) of CA with the tip of a knife or pin. It soaks right in and is hard as rock in seconds. The baking soda will collapse a bit, so you may want to do a second application to complete the fill. The action of the glue with the baking soda will release a vapor that is irritating to the eyes and no fun to breathe, but it won't hurt you in this small a dose. Just keep your eyes and nose out of the way.
I also use Nitro Stan Lacquer Putty, which is an air-dry glazing putting. Available at most auto-body supply shops. This is similar to 3M Acryl Red or Blue, but cures faster and sands like a dream. I apply it with a utility knife blade or small putty knife.
As for a more substantial filler, I use both Evercoat (in the small blue can) or Dynatron Puttycote. These are a 'thin' version of Bondo-type fillers. Once cured, they sand very cleanly. I've even gotten a glass-like surface by using files.
Scott
I also use Nitro Stan Lacquer Putty, which is an air-dry glazing putting. Available at most auto-body supply shops. This is similar to 3M Acryl Red or Blue, but cures faster and sands like a dream. I apply it with a utility knife blade or small putty knife.
As for a more substantial filler, I use both Evercoat (in the small blue can) or Dynatron Puttycote. These are a 'thin' version of Bondo-type fillers. Once cured, they sand very cleanly. I've even gotten a glass-like surface by using files.
Scott
Hadleys Hope
Active Member
Yep, baking soda and thin glue is the best.
Paul
Paul
Capn Rahn
Well-Known Member
Do you use a glue {elmers, gorilla etc}, plastic cement {testors etc}or styrene welder {Tenax, Plastruct etc}?
I ask because I have been working on a filler that uses Tenax as the suspension fluid. The plastic I 'melt' in it is s speciality one. It does not bubble like melting down sprue in a welder so often does.
This poly-styrene variant can be thinned with Tenax, reused if trimmed by dropping the cut pieces back into soulution and the stuff can bridge BIG gaps by 'stringing' buttressing with flat stock anf draping the filler over the 'ribs AND it sands to perfection and takes paint exactly as if it was the orginal model styrene.
I need to find some testers who are really into the final finishing/painting of models. Suffice it to say - I am not a finisher, :lol .
Here is a pic of the Cap'n unsanded purple ships tar... if there be any interest.
I ask because I have been working on a filler that uses Tenax as the suspension fluid. The plastic I 'melt' in it is s speciality one. It does not bubble like melting down sprue in a welder so often does.
This poly-styrene variant can be thinned with Tenax, reused if trimmed by dropping the cut pieces back into soulution and the stuff can bridge BIG gaps by 'stringing' buttressing with flat stock anf draping the filler over the 'ribs AND it sands to perfection and takes paint exactly as if it was the orginal model styrene.
I need to find some testers who are really into the final finishing/painting of models. Suffice it to say - I am not a finisher, :lol .
Here is a pic of the Cap'n unsanded purple ships tar... if there be any interest.
