Hellboy's Room Key buidup...
- Thread starter JOATRASH FX
- Start date
I'm finally making some progress on the next three copies of the key. Had to set up a ventilated spray booth in the closet but so far it has worked out well. The Alclad2 chrome seems to be working out well... using their own clear lacquer allows for a moderate amount of handling without the silver coming off too. I reckon I've thrown over 100 bucks just on paint getting these done (not counting buying a new compressor)!
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Parts for the holster have arrived and they fit the key perfectly. If it works out I will be able to make more if those that ordered the key want one.
So, the final three Room Keys are now just about done. I just have some final painting to do before I lubricate the mechanisms and glue on the handles. After tinkering away at these last pieces I decided to try a different metallic finish. The Alclad paint is great... and of course very reflective compared to all other metallic paints out there but there is still something a little "off" about it. Maybe it was too reflective? So I went over the keys again with another technique. I basically laid down coat after coat of Alclad, while lightly brushing/sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper between each coat. this gave the pieces kind of a "brushed aluminum" look that I feel looks a little more like real metal that has seen some "use" but is still mostly clean with some slight oxidation. Note that there is still a lot of reflectivity left in it...
I'll be hitting them with a final coat of silver over the current clear coat to bring in a little more reflectivity, after that they are done and I'll turn full attention to finishing up a couple of those Kroenen "windup heat thingies" you may have seen me harping about lately!
I'll be hitting them with a final coat of silver over the current clear coat to bring in a little more reflectivity, after that they are done and I'll turn full attention to finishing up a couple of those Kroenen "windup heat thingies" you may have seen me harping about lately!
Thanks.
Do you mean the one in brass? That's been done at least a couple times on the RPF. I don't think the last run was that long ago either...
Chimera59
New Member
Hi Joatrash
(really cool projectS! +1 for ongoing K's Blaster!! Great!)
I am working on a similar slide mechanism on a project. pieces shall also be 3d printed.
I m bumping up this thread hoping you could give me some tips regarding the clearances (with 3d printed parts).
I had in mind
- Snap fit(with alignment pegs): +2x 0,15mm (e.G Hole diameter:3,3mm/pin 3mm)
- Sliding (loose fit): 2x0,5mm (e.G Hole diam. 4mm/ pin 3mm)
What tell your experience ?
Thanks in advance for your inputs
(really cool projectS! +1 for ongoing K's Blaster!! Great!)
I am working on a similar slide mechanism on a project. pieces shall also be 3d printed.
I m bumping up this thread hoping you could give me some tips regarding the clearances (with 3d printed parts).
I had in mind
- Snap fit(with alignment pegs): +2x 0,15mm (e.G Hole diameter:3,3mm/pin 3mm)
- Sliding (loose fit): 2x0,5mm (e.G Hole diam. 4mm/ pin 3mm)
What tell your experience ?
Thanks in advance for your inputs
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Haha... wow... Necrothread.... I can't believe it's ben SIX YEARS since I did the Room Key. Funny thing is, that with my newly upgraded 3d printing capabilities I've been looking at this model again since I don't actually have one myself any longer!
But to your question:
Without knowing more about your project, or actually seeing the parts, it's hard to gauge. Material plays into it (metal? plastic?) as does length, flexibility and so on. Generally, 300 microns clearance all around seems excessive and might be bad if it's a longer piece. You risk it getting misaligned and catching if it has a lot of travel. Then there's the question of lubrication; if you're going to need grease or something to lubricate movement, the extra clearance might make sense. Also keep in mind that paint layers can easily build up quite a few microns and take away clearance.
But to your question:
Without knowing more about your project, or actually seeing the parts, it's hard to gauge. Material plays into it (metal? plastic?) as does length, flexibility and so on. Generally, 300 microns clearance all around seems excessive and might be bad if it's a longer piece. You risk it getting misaligned and catching if it has a lot of travel. Then there's the question of lubrication; if you're going to need grease or something to lubricate movement, the extra clearance might make sense. Also keep in mind that paint layers can easily build up quite a few microns and take away clearance.
Chimera59
New Member
Thanks for the reply
I m working on a replica of the CO2 gun from Live and Let Die.
The main features that I want to include are:
- 3d printed parts + paint
- Pieces shall be able to be taken apart (barrel, cross, canister, bullet )
- Locking mechanism for barrel(quick coupling) and canister
- Barel shall slide open to reveal the loaded bullet
Here the ongoing CAD model of the barrel.
Some pieces shall
- Slide loose (e.G barrel) + magnet ?
- Slide tight(e.G canister)
- Slide fit (e.G small components attached)
Good advice! thksJOATRASH FX said:
I m working on a replica of the CO2 gun from Live and Let Die.
The main features that I want to include are:
- 3d printed parts + paint
- Pieces shall be able to be taken apart (barrel, cross, canister, bullet )
- Locking mechanism for barrel(quick coupling) and canister
- Barel shall slide open to reveal the loaded bullet
Here the ongoing CAD model of the barrel.
Some pieces shall
- Slide loose (e.G barrel) + magnet ?
- Slide tight(e.G canister)
- Slide fit (e.G small components attached)
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Looks like an awesome project! Send me a PM if need help/advice printing. I might be able to help do those parts justice when it comes to making them physically...
