jkno
Legendary Member
Thank you :cheers
► Jkno's collection ◄
- Thread starter jkno
- Start date
Thank you :cheers
jkno
Legendary Member
The RS propmasters trooper is one of the centerpieces in my collection (thanks again Dan!)...love the blue color 
One thing I am wondering is....do you have to switch all the lights in your cabinets on/ off manually or are these wired? They seem to be the LED "push-lamps"...
I thought about using these as part of my setup as well, but found it too incormfortable to turn them on separately so I went with a remore controlled solution to switch everything on/ off at once.
One thing I am wondering is....do you have to switch all the lights in your cabinets on/ off manually or are these wired? They seem to be the LED "push-lamps"...
I thought about using these as part of my setup as well, but found it too incormfortable to turn them on separately so I went with a remore controlled solution to switch everything on/ off at once.
jkno
Legendary Member
The RS propmasters trooper is one of the centerpieces in my collection (thanks again Dan!)...love the blue color
One thing I am wondering is....do you have to switch all the lights in your cabinets on/ off manually or are these wired? They seem to be the LED "push-lamps"...
I thought about using these as part of my setup as well, but found it too incormfortable to turn them on separately so I went with a remore controlled solution to switch everything on/ off at once.
When I had custom made the collection cabinets many years ago, because there was no Ikea here nor other company having display cabinets for sale, I didn't have anything to use for lighting inside either. These were the best choice, so I got the Osram Dot-it Vario Linear puck lights for dirt cheap when OBI closed their doors here. These puck lights save me the hassle of cutting holes and wiring, plus I don't mind turning them on as they are touch sensitive (no push button). The direction of the light can be changed too by rotating the LED strip. Also they are just a secondary light, because the main one is on the ceiling which is having a remote and various lighting options (different intensity of light, different color, various setups etc.). In the end anything related to the collection is a pleasure, not a burden, even turning on/off the lights.
jkno
Legendary Member
Love the RS Trooper. By the way does that book give much love to the Hero and Stunt Stormtrooper helmets??
Always impressive your collection is.
Ben
Thanks Ben. Unfortunately there is just one single photo of a Stormie helmet and a short text in French saying it is an original from ESB. Wish there was more too...
jkno
Legendary Member
Thanks. Everyone starts small fist, and then you evolve in having the collection you desired.
Unless you buy a full collection. The thing is to collect what YOU like and display it as YOU like, nevermind others opinions. And always watch your budget, never spend the money you need for more important things in life.HopeOfTheFuture
Active Member
Impressive collection. Wonderfully done!
jkno
Legendary Member
So you nabbed #49 out of 50 - caught that one by the skin of your teeth, didn't you. .
...and really, I figured it would have been entirely plausible if you'd have either ended up with #1 out of 50, or #50 out of 50. :lol
Congrats and nice addition to the collection.
. ...and really, I figured it would have been entirely plausible if you'd have either ended up with #1 out of 50, or #50 out of 50. :lol
Congrats and nice addition to the collection.
jkno
Legendary Member
So you nabbed #49 out of 50 - caught that one by the skin of your teeth, didn't you.
...and really, I figured it would have been entirely plausible if you'd have either ended up with #1 out of 50, or #50 out of 50. :lol
Congrats and nice addition to the collection.
Thanks. Personally I don't care about the edition number on a plaque or COA. I'm glad the number is there, but that is all, would not pay a dime more for #1 or an Artist Proof licensed collectible for example, excepting when you get a true AP, hand painted by the artist and not in a Chinese factory. With RS they are all painted by the guys there
Thanks. Personally I don't care about the edition number on a plaque or COA. I'm glad the number is there, but that is all, would not pay a dime more for #1 or an Artist Proof licensed collectible for example, excepting when you get a true AP, hand painted by the artist and not in a Chinese factory. With RS they are all painted by the guys there
That's why I prefer buying direct from someone like RS who personally pulls and finishes their products, or a fan made cast and having the cast personally finished by a "fine artisan".
jkno
Legendary Member
I do that for years already: I have many licensed props, but also many fan made. The licensed props (and many collectibles in general too) are made in China many times by uninterested and underpaid workers, who don't know, neither care, what is that thing they are working on. On the other side most of the fan made items, besides being more accurate, are made by true talented artists who really care about the items they make to every minute detail, and even put a part of their soul in each of those props/collectibles they create.
Yorkie Fett
Sr Member
Hello Jkno, quick question for you, I see you have one of DL's At-At drivers in white. Have you had any problems with the white plastic starting to yellow?
My set has started to discolour on the side that was exposed to the window where it was on display (not actually near the window, however).
Obviously I'm very annoyed as it's a stunning prop from DL. Strangely, it's the helmet and armour that have yellowed, the chest box has stayed bright white (presumably pulled from a different batch of plastic).
I'm looking at using the Retrobright technique to restore the white, but from reading, even this isn't a permanent solution, as the yellow will eventually return.
Have you noticed any problems with your set?
My set has started to discolour on the side that was exposed to the window where it was on display (not actually near the window, however).
Obviously I'm very annoyed as it's a stunning prop from DL. Strangely, it's the helmet and armour that have yellowed, the chest box has stayed bright white (presumably pulled from a different batch of plastic).
I'm looking at using the Retrobright technique to restore the white, but from reading, even this isn't a permanent solution, as the yellow will eventually return.
Have you noticed any problems with your set?
jkno
Legendary Member
No problems on my set
I don't know if other members have done this but there's something called retrobright I think, since I am a game collector you encounter many snes game consoles that start to yellow from a flame retardant material added in it, but retrobright reverses the yellowing process pretty well! And it's not that expensive either.
Similar threads
