Mark 46 build 3D print

TKCC71 said:
Lol, thanks :)


Had to build another helmet for the suit while the other model is getting molded.

Had an unfortunate accident last week on the signed helmet. The helmet fell off my
Bar showing the suit to a contractor. I think my soul left my body when it fell. Fortunately the faceplate survived with a little touch up and looks like new. That will now go into a wall mounted plaque.

Here's the new one, took about 1 week. This one didn't come out to bad. This time I drilled holes and put flat head screws in the sides for the faceplate hinges and works much better. Also coated the inside with a thick coat of zpoxy.
Click to expand...


Looks great! Good job.
If i might suggest something.. Make the small edges arround the eye (flat) black and also fill up the lines with some normal acryl black paint. I will give the Helmet much more depth. and maybe some weathering at the top of the faceplate..
Like this:
helmet chest.jpgmk43 helmet.JPG
 
TKCC71 said:
Had some problems with the print last night. It seems to be stepping. Anyone have some thoughts on what might of caused this?
Click to expand...

You said you fixed the issue, but I still thought this was relevant:
While I'm not up-to-speed on 3d printing requirements, I did come across a similar issue when I got away from here, and went to Thingiverse for a while.
During some 1st attempts, a couple models that I made, were reported to cause a 'GLITCH' or as you call it 'STEPPING'?....

It turned out to be unjoined points. A Problems easily corrected in your modelling program, then you upload the model into Pepakura to re-check.
If your model has any RED LINES in pepakura, it's pepakuras way of telling you, that the model is not 3D Print Ready.
So ever since, I always upload all models to pepakura, and make sure there's no Red Line, before I release any models.

...may come in handy for future reference.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After checking out the whole thread, I think the suit looks phenomenal.
Nice Paint, Nice Look, the whole 9....

The only thing is the Proportioning of the Head & Neck.
They just seem a little too big, you know.
Chest, arms, legs.. all look Movie Size Correct.

Mabey scale the helmet down a little, to be Tight-fitting as well?
(my recommendation, anyway)
 
Last edited:
Syrus54 said:
You said you fixed the issue, but I still thought this was relevant:

While I'm not up-to-speed on 3d printing requirements, I did come across a similar issue when I got away from here, and went to Thingiverse for a while.
During some 1st attempts, a couple models that I made, were reported to cause a 'GLITCH' or as you call it 'STEPPING'?....

It turned out to be unjoined points. A Problems easily corrected in your modelling program, then you upload the model into Pepakura to re-check.
If your model has any RED LINES in pepakura, it's pepakuras way of telling you, that the model is not 3D Print Ready.
So ever since, I always upload all models to pepakura, and make sure there's no Red Line, before I release any models.

...may come in handy for future reference.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After checking out the whole thread, I think the suit looks phenomenal.
Nice Paint, Nice Look, the whole 9....

The only thing is the Proportioning of the Head & Neck.
They just seem a little too big, you know.
Chest, arms, legs.. all look Movie Size Correct.

Mabey scale the helmet down a little, to be Tight-fitting as well?
(my recommendation, anyway)
Click to expand...

Thanks Syrus54. Really like your 3D designs. Awesome work.

Unfortunately with making this a wearable 3D suit I had to throw off some of the scaling. Otherwise it would of been more a static display and would not fit my body. I tried really hard to keep things as proportional as possible but unfortunately The model itself without any adjustments won't fit any human I know of. :) this suit is definatlya CGI suit. the helmet I had to scale up just a little because Of the servos. This latest helmet version barley fit my head with all the electronics.

Oh well, Debating about my next Iron Man build being the war machine Mark 2. Learned a lot from this build and will hopefully apply those lessons to the next. :)
 
Let me see if I can say this, while making it make any sense...
Could you scale the Helmet down, and use say, Neodymium magnets in certain places, to have the helmet Assemble-able around your head?
Instead of a Helmet that you SLIP-ON, over your head, instead have it in pieces, that 'SLAP TOGETHER' using the magnets.

Using rare earth magnets, it should form a strong bond, so it wont just Fall Off.
And then, mabey replace the Servos with a Mechanical Version.
Mabey some piano wire, or something to that effect, to pull the Faceplate open & closed...
Or mabey have the Servos in the Back Piece, and run the Piano Wire down to them.
That way it's still motorized, but the helmet can be a snug-fit, and scaled to look right.

... just some ideas...
 
Syrus54 said:
Let me see if I can say this, while making it make any sense...
Could you scale the Helmet down, and use say, Neodymium magnets in certain places, to have the helmet Assemble-able around your head?
Instead of a Helmet that you SLIP-ON, over your head, instead have it in pieces, that 'SLAP TOGETHER' using the magnets.

Using rare earth magnets, it should form a strong bond, so it wont just Fall Off.
And then, mabey replace the Servos with a Mechanical Version.
Mabey some piano wire, or something to that effect, to pull the Faceplate open & closed...
Or mabey have the Servos in the Back Piece, and run the Piano Wire down to them.
That way it's still motorized, but the helmet can be a snug-fit, and scaled to look right.

... just some ideas...
Click to expand...

I gotcha. Totally makes sense. The helmet I have is actually in 3 pieces (Faceshield, back piece and the top piece) held together with multiple rare earth magnets. The problem I was having is the servos took up too much space, they would hit my forehead and easily push the back of the helmet off. The back piece would almost pinch my big ears putting it on. :)
I do however like your mechanical idea and will definitely look into it, I think I saw a Youtube video a while back of someone that did it with a cable and put the servos in the jaw. I think it was Xrobots.UK.
 
Your work is amazing! Just bought the 3d files from MaxCrft, my first ever 3d printing files so will definitely be using this thread as my bible, thanks so much!!
 
Thanks I use the Duplicolor automotive spray paints (Metalcast ground coat + Metalcast red and then Duplicolor Ford Sunburst Gold for the facesheild.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the comment brokechick, best of luck and definately look forward to seeing your build as well.
 
Can you post a video how you put on the armor, as I am having issues regarding this and how to make it wearable

Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk
 
I can post some pictures on some various techniques. This suit was a royal pain to get on. However learning from that I have made some changes to the War Machine I am currently making and it works so much better. I will post something soon.
 
TKCC71 said:
I can post some pictures on some various techniques. This suit was a royal pain to get on. However learning from that I have made some changes to the War Machine I am currently making and it works so much better. I will post something soon.
Click to expand...
Will be looking

Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk
 
There are a variety of methods. I've seen some folks use Guitar strings (small E string) or thin wire, which I think would work best. (Hot glue them to each finger)

Another method is attaching them directly to a glove insert. (I did this on mine, but I had issues with the tips falling off occasionally).
 
TKCC71 said:
There are a variety of methods. I've seen some folks use Guitar strings (small E string) or thin wire, which I think would work best. (Hot glue them to each finger)

Another method is attaching them directly to a glove insert. (I did this on mine, but I had issues with the tips falling off occasionally).
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thanks for the insight. Have you ever used the JB Plastic Weld on any of your projects? That stuff is tough AF.
Your thread is a gold mine of great information. Thanks for documenting your progress and evolutions. I'm about to order the Sindoh 3DWOX DP200 to begin my MK45 project. It's gotten really great reviews on Amazon and I've been looking for one for quite some time. Do you have any experience or ever heard of it?
 
AUbeast86 said:
Awesome! Thanks for the insight. Have you ever used the JB Plastic Weld on any of your projects? That stuff is tough AF.
Your thread is a gold mine of great information. Thanks for documenting your progress and evolutions. I'm about to order the Sindoh 3DWOX DP200 to begin my MK45 project. It's gotten really great reviews on Amazon and I've been looking for one for quite some time. Do you have any experience or ever heard of it?
Click to expand...

Yes that JB weld works great for bonding PETG. I use to make my own acrylic aquariums with that stuff. Love it :)

About the printer, haven't heard of it and just took a look at it online. The only problem is that it has only has a 8x8 inch print volume. Which is quite small for building Armor. It can be done but you will have many more slices to do. Also, I see that the printer uses 1.75mm filament in a cartridge style which might limit your ability to choose other filament brands since the reels come in different diameters and widths.

If you are looking for a printer for building Armor I would look for one with a larger print volume. E.g. My SeeMeCNC Rostock Max V3 kit I built has almost 11.5 inch x 15 inch capability and works great for those long parts like the calves, thighs and shins. If I could get more than a 2lb roll of filament I could almost print the entire helmet on one print. :)
 
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