Need some advice, how to strip primer paint...

MangyDog

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Sep 27, 2017

• #1

I have an old polar lights enterprise A kit that i never quite finished and at some point soon I want to redo it...

I need some advice. For the most part I should be able to break the plastic cement used to glue the kit. But one of the things I need to redo in some areas is the paint...

Whats the best way to strip primer paint without damaging the styrene? is it possible?

Also if anyone can recommend ways to break the glued parts with the least amount of damage? Just use a knife?

Any tips would be useful Thanks

 

TazMan2000

Master Member

• Sep 27, 2017

• #2

Super clean works well and has no effect on the plastic. No fumes, but I still would recommend using it in a ventilated location.

TazMan2000

 

rbeach84

Sr Member

• Sep 27, 2017

• #3

I've used regular household bleach quite successfully as a stripper. Take the recommended precautions (rubber gloves, outdoors under cover, etc.) and scrub a little with a toothbrush during rinse after an overnight soak. Usually helps break the glue joints as well, though nothing is perfect especially if your gluing technique is good. What scale ENT are you talking about?

Regards, Robert

 

A

Automaton

Well-Known Member

• Sep 28, 2017

• #4

I successfully used De-solvit polycarbonate-safe graffiti remover to strip paint off a Round 2 Ecto-1. Less toxic than most strippers and it was quite kind to the plastic. It did soften the panel lines slightly where I left it on too long.

 

vicmc

New Member

• Sep 28, 2017

• #5

I've also used bleach to good effect. Pour it in a bucket, throw the parts in, and leave it for a while. You will need to scrub it with a soft toothbrush, and you can usually scratch the paint off with your fingernails, too. Wear eye protection, you don't want to spray undiluted bleach or paint flakes into your eyes.

 

MangyDog

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Oct 2, 2017

• #6

Wow i never thought of bleach for that... Thanks. I shall try it out when i get round to redoing the kit... Ive even lost a couple of bits. The deflector dish is nowhere to be found I might end up modeling it in 3d and then printing the part and then post work it to look cleaner.

I also want to make a strong internal frame. My old attempt left the pilons bending under the weight of the ccf tubes I was using in the nacells before.

Also the bleach would kill any germs that the rat muck off that some stupid rat dragged its arse all over the kit while in storage

Truth be told I would start again with a fresh kit, if they were still making the kits So ill fix up this one

 

MangyDog

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Oct 2, 2017

• #7

rbeach84 said:

I've used regular household bleach quite successfully as a stripper. Take the recommended precautions (rubber gloves, outdoors under cover, etc.) and scrub a little with a toothbrush during rinse after an overnight soak. Usually helps break the glue joints as well, though nothing is perfect especially if your gluing technique is good. What scale ENT are you talking about?

Regards, Robert

Click to expand...

The polar lights kit that came out about 10 years ago... Cant remember the actual scale but it was a rather large model, about 2 foot...

The glueing? Well maybe a fairly decent job. Will see

 

kamandi

Sr Member

• Oct 2, 2017

• #8

Drop your parts in a bucket of Simple Green or Mean Green. Let 'em soak for a few days. The paint will shrivel up and slide off. Use a toothbrush to scrub off any minor bits or let it soak some more. Very plastic safe.

 

A

ausf

Active Member

• Oct 4, 2017

• #9

I second Tazmann. Super Clean (used to be Castrol Super Clean), I bought a gallon from an auto parts store for $8, have stripped to bare plastic about a dozen vintage Aurora kits so far. Stick the kit in a plastic container, pour the SC on top, go back the next day or two. Pour the SC back into it's container for next time. Sometimes stubborn stuff needs a brush and double soak, but we're talking over 50 year old enamel paint.

It also strips chrome plating off of styrene in minutes.

Non-toxic, bio degradable and readily available almost anywhere. One hint ,just use gloves because it'll suck the moisture out of your skin leaving an oily residue.

It can be diluted and used to clean almost anything, but full strength it'll dissolve paint so be careful where you use it, outside whenever possible.