Official V3 Nike MAG Replica Thread - V3 Discussion Thread

If you want to remove the soles, then absolutely, heat directly on the clear soles is the easiest way. Don't get too much on the foamy midsole or it will melt.

And don't get heat near the cloth or I think it will burn.

I do believe that the best way to go is to cut along the glue line.

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Ok, I'll have to give this a shot this weekend. Thanks cavx

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Ok got it off, wasn't super careful with the buckle as I have spares. Was more concerned with the fabric which survived. Anyways looks like the charging port pulled the pads off the PCB. Tried soldering but it just wouldn't stick. Going to work at it more tomorrow.
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Sorry, what are we looking at here?

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rhats the charge port and the circuit board on the V3's.

the problem is that the port port has broken off part if the board with it. It's not repairable like this. If you can figure out how to fix this, I would be SUPER surprised.
 
So would these have been damaged at the factory? I just find it a bit odd that anyone would actually return these.

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welp
its true
you cant really fix this without adding a seperate charge board
i believ3 i posted my method in the first few pages of this thread
thats the exact issue i had btw
 
So would these have been damaged at the factory? I just find it a bit odd that anyone would actually return these.

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According to Joyce these were brand new, not returns. My guess is the batteries were dead and someone either at the factory or at David's got a little rough while inserting the charger and broke the port off.

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Originally I was hopeful that I could jumper power from the charge port to the next component in line, but unfortunately I couldn't find a suitable spot on the + side to do this. - was easy as it hadn't ripped one of those pads off and it appears even if it had, I could have just tapped into the - battery connection. What I will be doing though is epoxying a new charge port onto the factory board and using this sparkfun lithium charging board (desoldered the micro USB and battery connection to get it as flat as possible) installed in the recess next to the main board. Wiring is super easy simply run + & - from the charge port to the input side of the charging board, then + & - from the output side of the charging board to the battery connection points on the main board. Did a test run and let this setup charge overnight, all seems good. Will take some pics of the final install once I'm done. Here's a pic of the lithium charger and where it will fit. And in case anyone needs to remove that black crap they put on the main board, just use some heat and it crumbles away.
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Has anyone replaced the factory buckles with Cloneprops ones? They would only be a display pair of course.

Have thought about it, but they are too big. If he released the "small" version on shapeways, then yes, would be perfect. I have started a mod on his "medium" size 3D printed part but I will need to cut it down. Again, just too tall. Really nice screen accurate shape, but just too big. Almost 1/4" too tall.
 
Catfish45 great work and thank you for documenting it.

From the photo of a real 2011 shoe with the buckle off, they used what appears to be a copper tape not wires. I just don't get why they used wires here. They are bulkier and more prone to break. I have 1/4" wide copper tape that is adhesive and conducts well enough to power EL (120V AC). This stuff can be soldered on to or it can be stuck on to other components.

I just think a complete re-wire with this instead of wires would make an almost bullet proof shoe.
 
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I contacted a guy on Instagram that I've bought from before and he can get the circuit boards for $80 a pair.
 
Have thought about it, but they are too big. If he released the "small" version on shapeways, then yes, would be perfect. I have started a mod on his "medium" size 3D printed part but I will need to cut it down. Again, just too tall. Really nice screen accurate shape, but just too big. Almost 1/4" too tall.

He has ones for size 8-9 now but no size 7.
 

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